Hi, I have an 2004 RC51 nicky edition. I have a nice racing tail, power commander, yoshi pips, and nice good brakes. tires are good, chain is good, sprockets are good and plugs as well. what else can I add for performance and more speed and power?????? any suggestions guys??

I was thinking to put an HID lights but I heard that it might melt the fairing, is that true?? I was planning to put HID 8000K
does that affect the bike or melt it???

thanks for help guys.

find a larger airbox aka moriwaki, hrc, thorsten, turn one

"Performance" is kind of vague...more horsepower out of the RC isn't easy or cheap although the airbox is always a good modification. Other than the airbox the obvious things are gearing, suspension and wheels.

HID's burn cooler than the stock bulbs so melting won't be an issue, but using them in the stock housing without projectors is going to blind everybody. Plus, 8k is going to be really blue which kind of defeats the whole reason for having them. Go 5k to have the most usable light........ unless you want to look like all the college kids in their jacked up F350's with purple lights

ChipG, thanks for the information. so its cooler?? I thought it gives more heat, but thats a good news and yes 5000K or 6000K are the best lights. I dont care if people are getting blind, people cant see me! they are dumb and I was about to die!

5.4, I have K&N filter, so what u mean by air box, can u explain more please and give me some names??

watskoooo, I have michellen wheels which are very good and suspension in very expensive so lets forget about this one lol, what about gearing? tell me more about it, what u think i can add for gearing??

For the airbox, google "thorsten airbox rc51" or "turnone airbox rc51"

I meant lighter wheels, not tires, but they are spendier...

Stock gearing is 16/40, lowering it to 15/41 is pretty common, gives you more drive and doesn't really hurt top speed very much, especially on the street.

ya but lowering will mak it pop wheely too much and i dont know what else..

I'm running 15/41 and I have to MAKE my bike wheelie. The speedo will be off if you don't use a speedo healer , and that's the only downside that I can see.

ok, sounds good and yes i do have speed healer lol
how much it usually cost to lower it tho??

and what kind of airbox is the best???
and how much it might cost??

I googled airbox but no results

Front sprockets are $20-$45, rears are $60-$90 depending on what kind you get, but it's a good idea to get a new chain to go with new sprockets.

I have a new chain already and my sprockets are not bad! do I have to get a new sprockets and chain when I lower it? I wish I can find a place here in MN that do that for the price u gave me lol

Don't have to get a chain, it's just generally better to do sprokets and chain together. It's not hard to change your own sprokets, then it will be the price I gave you:)

haha I have a warranty with a dealer and they changed my chain and sprokets for free! but I still want to know how to lower it lol

Lower the gearing or the bike?

hmmm u said lower the gearing would make it faster right?? what about the bike?

Kinda lost me for a minute. To lower the gearing, use a smaller front sprocket and a larger rear. 15/41 is what I run. Lowering the bike ruins the handling

damn, so I have to change sprocket and rear :(

You can go down 1 tooth in the front if you don't want to do both. Will make it a little quicker. Going up in the rear alone will make your chain too short

You don't *have* to change front and rear at the same time. If they are reasonably new, you probably wouldn't hurt anything by swapping out one or the other. One thing to keep in mind is -1 in the front is the same as +3 in the rear, so 15/40 is pretty much the same as 16/43. Depending on your chain, you can usually change 1 tooth up or down on a sprocket without needing a different size chain.

I'm running 15/41 on the track and 15/42 on the street.

but u guys think 15/41 is the best right? I am getting confused with the tooths and the things like that, so what exactly should I change to be 15/41??

The stock gearing is a 16 tooth front sprocket, and 40 rear(16/40). 15/41 is popular, and I really like it

ahh i see, damit, i would probably do that when I have a little money because the dealer changed my sprocket recently, they still brand new! I would do it when I have enough money or maybe next summer.

but what about the airbox? which one is a good one?

sprocketcenter.com has a 15/41 steel sprocket set in 530 chain size for around 60 dollars shipped for the RC. If your chain is in good shape you can use the stock chain length. Like some of the others have said, sprocket changes are not very difficult. I will probably do the this setup on my RC soon. Not only will it make the bike accelerate (sp?) quicker, it will make the RC easier to take off from a stop. Requiring less clutch "slippage" to get moving. And you will probably not lose much, if any, top end speed. Which is more than enough for street riding anyway. Good luck

Thats great man!! I was looking at this site but I didnt find what ur talking about. there is no set for 60 dollers. the set is about 169 lol

No, they are there. They are $58 plus shipping. And to my location, shipping was like $8. It is called - Drive Systems USA "Quick Kit" Front and Rear Sprocket Set. Here is the product description as well as the link to the listing for the RC51. Sounds like a sweet deal. Parts Unlimited sprockets from Dennis Kirk are like $25 more. Can't go wrong with this deal if you have a new chain or a good low mile chain.

Product Information
Talk about a performance improvement that you can truly feel, a Drive Systems “Quick Kit” sprocket set is one for sure. By dropping the overall gear ratio between 9 and 10 percent and an increase of about 550 RPM at 65 MPH, a “Quick Kit” will make your bike come alive. It’s easy to install and best of all, Quick Kits utilize the stock chain. This is a Quick & Easy power upgrade for all Sport Bikes.

Quick Kits contain a chromoly steel countershaft sprocket with one tooth smaller than stock and a case hardened steel rear sprocket with one tooth larger than stock.


http://www.sprocketcenter.com/p/964135/drive-systems-usa-quick-kit-front-and-rear-sprocket-set-honda-.html

oh ya, I saw it, but it doesnt say how many teeth I want! so it probably send me the same as the stock but lighter weight or something

"Quick Kits contain a chromoly steel countershaft sprocket with one tooth smaller than stock and a case hardened steel rear sprocket with one tooth larger than stock."

15/41^

not to sound like a dick but it scares me that somone with such little knowledge of motorcycles in general is on this forum getting info on how to make his 1000cc 130HP Superbike go even faster

not to sound like a dick but it scares me that somone with such little knowledge of motorcycles in general is on this forum getting info on how to make his 1000cc 130HP Superbike go even faster

:eek: I hear ya. I know that you gotta learn somehow, but an RC51 is not a "learner's" bike. That beast will teach you a hard lesson for sure. Be careful Rocket51. The RC's are plenty fast enough stock. Hopefully your riding experience is greater than your knowledge of motorcycles and that this is not your first street bike. Be safe and take good care of that bike and she'll take care of you. If you don't respect it, she'll bite ya hard. Sorry if I sounded too harsh, and I may be way off base. Just want everyone to stay shiny side up and rubber side down.:D

Lets not forget the most obvious way to get more, existing, ponies to the rear wheel: Lowering unsprung weight. With the minimum of 1lb.cut equalling 8lbs. of sprung weight lost (and I've heard some claim even higher ratio numbers) it's the most effective way to lighten the load and let more of the engine do its work. It may not be the popular route, but it's the most effective...

Lets not forget the most obvious way to get more, existing, ponies to the rear wheel: Lowering unsprung weight. With the minimum of 1lb.cut equalling 8lbs. of sprung weight lost (and I've heard some claim even higher ratio numbers) it's the most effective way to lighten the load and let more of the engine do its work. It may not be the popular route, but it's the most effective...

so lightweight wheels,brakes,chain, and sprockets?

I would hesitate to guess it's not the popular route because it's not the cheapest route.
Those pounds can get a bit expensive from my own humble experience.

Don't forget the lightweight rider. I know that my RC would be a heck of alot faster if I shed about 50 pounds or so myself.:D It weighed at the strip 740lbs with a 2/3 full tank of fuel and me geared up (me being 270 or so of it).

I would hesitate to guess it's not the popular route because it's not the cheapest route.
Those pounds can get a bit expensive from my own humble experience.

Sub,
You and I both know from personal experience (our Carrozzaria discussions) that adding wheels isn't the cheapest route, but IMO, it is one of the most effective methods to shed pounds. As far a rider's weight is concerned, at 190 lbs., with my pot, I'm not in a position to call the kettle black...;)

I wouldn't mess with the brakes, instead add Attack's lightweight triple clamps to the wish list.

So many expensive goodies, so little $:(

So many expensive goodies, so little $:(

Which is why I don't have an Ohlins Road & Track front end!!!:(

Throw alot of money at it.

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll61/RAWNTB/Motorcycle/031.jpg

Seeing that you are located in Minnesota may I suggest some track school.

http://www.zaluskyridingschool.com/

Sub,
You and I both know from personal experience (our Carrozzaria discussions) that adding wheels isn't the cheapest route, but IMO, it is one of the most effective methods to shed pounds. As far a rider's weight is concerned, at 190 lbs., with my pot, I'm not in a position to call the kettle black...;)

While I have Marchesini forged AL wheels, I would love a set of Tri-R wheels now that they state they are for track and street use. As opposed to track only previously.

The loss of rotating mass at the rim really helps the bike handle turns.

I wish I weighed 190 lbs. I didn't weight that much in boot camp.
My ancestors obviously lived in caves and didn't do much evolving. :cool:

Which is why I don't have an Ohlins Road & Track front end!!!:(

Funny you should mention that.
I picked these up a month ago. I'm currently getting them serviced along with the shock I've had.
I've yet to install the cartridges in my OEM forks, but will do that as well.
Now I've really got to save up a few paychecks...

http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp158/rc51/IMGP3166.jpg

Fit carbon wheels! They say it's like getting 15bhp but without the chore/expense of engine work! Plus they look smart!

While I have Marchesini forged AL wheels, I would love a set of Tri-R wheels now that they state they are for track and street use. As opposed to track only previously.

The loss of rotating mass at the rim really helps the bike handle turns.

I wish I weighed 190 lbs. I didn't weight that much in boot camp.
My ancestors obviously lived in caves and didn't do much evolving. :cool:

I noticed an immediate difference when I got the Tri's last spring. Turn-in's are noticeably easier. More "flickable."

Funny you should mention that.
I picked these up a month ago. I'm currently getting them serviced along with the shock I've had.
I've yet to install the cartridges in my OEM forks, but will do that as well.
Now I've really got to save up a few paychecks...

http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp158/rc51/IMGP3166.jpg

I was VERY tempted last winter when Dan Kyle had the last remaining R/T's for sale. What made me shy away from purchasing (aside from the obvious reason: cost) was his comment to me over the phone that the Road & Tracks without the Superbike valving (in their stock configuration) are NOT as effective as the OE forks with Ohlins Superbike valving. (Before anyone comments, yes I know the Ohlins offer more adjustability than the OE units. But thats really the only difference) I can attest that the rebuilt front end on my bike works great. If anybody's in a position to make a comment like that, I think DK's earned the right to do so.

Thanks guys :D i have been riding for 5 years but I have no knowledge with performance. I always use the bike as its stock and never changed anything, thats why I was lil big confused. but I did listen and put 40 15 and with light sprockets and chain and it is really doing a good job.

thanks again

Thanks guys :D i have been riding for 5 years but I have no knowledge with performance. I always use the bike as its stock and never changed anything, thats why I was lil big confused. but I did listen and put 40 15 and with light sprockets and chain and it is really doing a good job.

thanks again

I'm curious. What type of differences have you noticed (day to day riding) by changing the gearing?

Guys, I just installed a power commander 3 usb on my 03 RC. Everything is fine except my display is now completely gone! The only thing that still lights up is my brights indicator. The turn signals, headlights and everything else works. Any ideas?? Did i just bump into something and loosened a wire, maybe a blown fuse? Any ideas?

thanks

I'd check the fusebox behind the left lower cowl.

I'd check the fusebox behind the left lower cowl.

thanks subsailor. So the fuse box is not under the seat huh? I did look there and found nothing. I'll check the left lower cowl like you suggested.

With that said, I took the bike out after installing the power commander and the bike didn't feel any faster, but it did feel a little smoother. Is that normal? I got it from Kyle Racing with a map pre-loaded.

Remember, the MAPS are just a best-guess for broad-range applications. Depending on who you go with (check Power Commander's web for the listed tuner in your area) a dyno tune will cost between $300-$400 but it's the only way to set the PC III to your bike rather than to some general settings to get the full benefit from the unit. Is it worth it? I say yes, but only you can answer that question for yourself. In my case (after I removed the foam inserts from the air filters) it was time for a retune. I ended up adding approx. 13HP over factory numbers (Ok, nothing to write home about) but increased torque from the previous baseline of 76 ft lbs. to 117 ft lbs. That's something to get a little excited about...

Remember, the MAPS are just a best-guess for broad-range applications. Depending on who you go with (check Power Commander's web for the listed tuner in your area) a dyno tune will cost between $300-$400 but it's the only way to set the PC III to your bike rather than to some general settings and get the full benefit from the unit. Is it worth it? I say yes, but only you can answer that question for yourself. In my case (after I removed the foam inserts from the air filters) it was time for a retune. I ended up adding approx. 13HP over factory numbers (Ok, nothing to write home about) but increased torque from the previous baseline of 76 ft lbs. to 117 ft lbs. That's something to get a little excited about...

DAMN!!!! 117ftlbs, thats huge!! Id say that was worth it

Remember, the MAPS are just a best-guess for broad-range applications. Depending on who you go with (check Power Commander's web for the listed tuner in your area) a dyno tune will cost between $300-$400 but it's the only way to set the PC III to your bike rather than to some general settings and get the full benefit from the unit. Is it worth it? I say yes, but only you can answer that question for yourself. In my case (after I removed the foam inserts from the air filters) it was time for a retune. I ended up adding approx. 13HP over factory numbers (Ok, nothing to write home about) but increased torque from the previous baseline of 76 ft lbs. to 117 ft lbs. That's something to get a little excited about...

Who did your tune?

Alan at Xtreme Performance here on Mobile (and yes, this is a commercial for Alan) spent 1 1/2 hours with my bike on his dyno. That's not just him making that claim. I spent most of the time watching, asking questions and peeking over his shoulder at the monitor. With numbers like that I know it'll take a few sessions back at the track to relearn corner exits. I've already had the pleasure of a nasty high side due to cracking the throttle too hard coming out of a corner, and that was at the old torque number...

Who did your tune?

Alan at Xtreme on the Beltline, Eastside of the I65 service road, near Old Shell and the I65 overpass (close to Dreamland BBQ)

Thanks, I'll check him out

I ended up adding approx. 13HP over factory numbers (Ok, nothing to write home about) but increased torque from the previous baseline of 76 ft lbs. to 117 ft lbs. That's something to get a little excited about...

Respectable HP gains, but your torque number has to be a typo.

No typo, sorry...

Respectable HP gains, but your torque number has to be a typo.


I agree, somehow you are stating that you are making 18 more torque then a Ducati 1198 R?

Your bike,
145 hp
117 tq

Ducati 1198 R
180 hp
99 tq

Do you have a copy of the graph?

No typo, sorry...

It may not be a typo in that the dyno graph said that, but it's an impossibility. RCs typically make peak torque at 8k, so 117 ft/lbs of torque would correspond to 178HP at 8k...

keep this thread alive, we have to find the truth

It may not be a typo in that the dyno graph said that, but it's an impossibility. RCs typically make peak torque at 8k, so 117 ft/lbs of torque would correspond to 178HP at 8k...

Ding Ding Ding...

I got my airbox from Squidskins and it worked really well. Its carbon or fiberglass. Woke the beast :D with the right map.

Just finished my first track day(Grattan,MI) and had a blast. Novice day one,intermediate day two. Also looking for more power.
Anyone run 110 octane with a new map? Pros and Cons

Mods--flapper mod,pair removed,yoshimura exhaust,190/55,-1front+2rear sprockets,K&N filter,powercommander 3(need own map). Airbox is next purchase,then map.

Anyone run 110 octane with a new map? Pros and Cons


Unless your bike is heavily modified, I'd skip the expensive race fuel and stick with pump gas.

Also note that race gas used in say, World Superbike, is very corrosive and after each race the entire fuel system is purged with pump gas.
This I read in an article on Ben Spies' bike last year.

They have dry break couplers which they connect to a 1 gallon container of pump gas and purge the lines and injectors by running the engine on a stand for a short while.
While that's going on, the tank is drained and flushed with pump gas.

I had a friend that put 110 in his RC at a trackday and one of his cans exploded on the track:eek: The can filled with unburned fuel, and kaboom

ahhh, ..........WOW! Cant even imagine thatI had a friend that put 110 in his RC at a trackday and one of his cans exploded on the track The can filled with unburned fuel, and kaboom

can you imagine seeing that? that'd be interesting to see how the bike reacted to an explosion going off like that.

Rocket51 if you really want more out of your RC the do some track days along with a reputable racing school. Made a hell of a difference with myself. I thought before I took the school I was pushing my RC close to it's limits, boy was I wrong. I have shaved close to 4 sec's off my lap times with no mods to the bike. Chances are your not using all the available hp now anyway. This works for the street aswell. The list for mods should follow like this, and in this order.

1.) Advanced riding and/or racing school
2.) Suspension
3.) Engine mods.

No sense putting more hp on when you can't properly use it. Kinda putting the cart before the horse. Hope this helps. Ride safe mate.

Rocket51 if you really want more out of your RC the do some track days along with a reputable racing school. Made a hell of a difference with myself. I thought before I took the school I was pushing my RC close to it's limits, boy was I wrong. I have shaved close to 4 sec's off my lap times with no mods to the bike. Chances are your not using all the available hp now anyway. This works for the street aswell. The list for mods should follow like this, and in this order.

1.) Advanced riding and/or racing school
2.) Suspension
3.) Engine mods.

No sense putting more hp on when you can't properly use it. Kinda putting the cart before the horse. Hope this helps. Ride safe mate.

Very good call, could not agree more with that order.

can you imagine seeing that? that'd be interesting to see how the bike reacted to an explosion going off like that.

The corner workers never found the end cap. I really wish I had taken a pic, it looked a lot like the exploding cigars on a Bugs Bunny cartoon:D

hahahaha....geeeez, that is crazy. thats probably one of those once in a life time moments, huh?

The corner workers never found the end cap. I really wish I had taken a pic, it looked a lot like the exploding cigars on a Bugs Bunny cartoon:D

Huntin' wabbits wit dat wasskily RC51?