My first RC51 and so far, I love it. She lacks the juice of the inline 4's and from what I have read, their pretty expensive to make it hang. Its a 01' and I bought it for 3200.00 and there’s minimal plastic damage and no dents.. Full yosh exhaust, Yoshi PC, Scott’s stabilizer... Probably Filter changed, (don’t know) have not gotten that far into it... My neighbor has suggested gearing it and it should really come alive for me, any suggestions¿ Not looking for strip performance, more into twisties and wheelies. Please reccomend a good set of shoes for it too.. (something thats not gonna kick out at 39°).. Thanks

WELCOME!!! I've had very good results with Carbone Lorraine brakes. Check out Sportbike Track Gear...

Sorry, i actually meant tires not brake shoes..

everyones freakin over the new dunlops. The perelli supercorsas are good but i love my bridgstne BT016s! Definitly get the gearing done and there are few free up grades that let it rev higher etc. This is the place for you to be for sure, ther are some real experts on this site. Ask and it will be answered

You got a great deal on that bike! I got an '01 basically stock for 4k. Anyway as far as tires go. If you want traction I got continental motion on my gsxr and they hold great. As for the RC I got continental attack. They don't grip as good but I get more mileage out of them than the motions. I ride the RC more and there isn't a track on Oahu, so it makes sense for me.

im using the michelin pilot power and they work well, price is good too

Pilot powers are a good tire for the price, and will work quite well for the average riders needs... If you need a little more grip on the edges (extreme lean angle's), try the 2CT's (powe pure now), diablo Corsa III's, or BT003RS. I have the BT003RS on my RC, and 2CT's on my Busa. The center of my Busa tire's generally wear flat well before the sides are close to worn. The 2CT's have softer side's, and they wear a little more on the sides, and much more even with the center....yes, I use the side's of the tire's on my Busa :cool:

The standard mods seems to be:
Power Commander
Gearing: 15/42 or 15/41 seem to be the popular choices
Soft limiter
snorkel
some people really like fitting a 195 rear tire to quicken the steering.

I am using the Pilot 2 ct's (190 rear) and they seem to be working pretty well. I am not a Michelen guy so these are pretty new to me - relatively cheap though

Its not a bang/wow/wee 600 supersprt and it is one of the worst in-town commuting bikes ever (worse even that a VF1000R) but its a hoot when rolling through the twisties.

The standard mods seems to be:
Power Commander
Gearing: 15/42 or 15/41 seem to be the popular choices
Soft limiter
snorkel
some peopl ereally like fitting a 195 rear tire to quicken the steering.

I am using the Pilot 2 ct's (190 rear) and they seem to be working pretty well. I am not a Michelen guy so these are pretty new to me - relatively cheap though

Its not a bang/wow/wee 600 supersprt and it is one of the worst in-town commuting bikes ever (worse even that a VF1000R) but its a hoot when rolling through the twisties.

190/55/17 is what a lot of use choose to use for rear rubber.... not a 195, unless you are running a race slick....
Also correct that the RC sucks as a street bike... unless you like to ride in a very cramped position. The gearing sucks at speeds under 40mph also. None the less, I love my RC51, and have wanted one for a long time! I have only done the track with it so far, and it's amazing on the track!

190/55/17 is what a lot of use choose to use for rear rubber.... not a 195, unless you are running a race slick...

Really? I thought that some were putting on a 195 in street trim. . .

190/55/17 is what a lot of use choose to use for rear rubber.... not a 195, unless you are running a race slick....
Also correct that the RC sucks as a street bike... unless you like to ride in a very cramped position. The gearing sucks at speeds under 40mph also. None the less, I love my RC51, and have wanted one for a long time! I have only done the track with it so far, and it's amazing on the track!

I agree with Modidy here is good on the track, I have not take it to the street my self and got my RC at the end of January and I took her in April to the track for 2 session and then two weeks ago at Mid-Ohio for the whole day and it was great

I have my grearing at 16/42( not in too wheelies)

Yea, Im finding out that shes a b‼tch to cruise town with.. But none the less those twin Yoshi cannons sound so good when I get in her... I think i'll be picking up another bike very shortly. And i stand corrected on the post, its not a Yoshi PC, its an EMS. Theres a cheap set of rubber on it now. Back tire just does not grip when i slip the clutch @ 4k.. JUNK!!! I'll have to get a new front gear this week. .... OK. heres a silly question. The air intake duct, there is a flapper on top of it connected to a vacuum line, (see, mines loose in there and does not seat in the intake duck like its supposed to. The damn thing jumps around when i goose it) I read that if you remove that so the flapper stays open all the time, it generates better air flow and in turn, more HP.. anyone verify this? Heres where i read it from.. http://www.rc51.org/valve.htm. Check it out, let me know what you guys think.. Thanks

Yea, Im finding out that shes a b‼tch to cruise town with.. But none the less those twin Yoshi cannons sound so good when I get in her... I think i'll be picking up another bike very shortly. And i stand corrected on the post, its not a Yoshi PC, its an EMS. Theres a cheap set of rubber on it now. Back tire just does not grip when i slip the clutch @ 4k.. JUNK!!! I'll have to get a new front gear this week. .... OK. heres a silly question. The air intake duct, there is a flapper on top of it connected to a vacuum line, (see, mines loose in there and does not seat in the intake duck like its supposed to. The damn thing jumps around when i goose it) I read that if you remove that so the flapper stays open all the time, it generates better air flow and in turn, more HP.. anyone verify this? Heres where i read it from.. http://www.rc51.org/valve.htm. Check it out, let me know what you guys think.. Thanks

You have to disconect the hose then unscrew the flapper and play with it until you see the flapper stay open when you screw the valve on close....hope that helps

You have to disconect the hose then unscrew the flapper and play with it until you see the flapper stay open when you screw the valve on close....hope that helps What tooth ratio do you run on the RC51, i was thinking that a 16-41 would make it smoother in town. Any suggustions on that.. I have not put this baby on the track, mostly just 12:00's intown and twisties.. Its just a clutchy pain riding it in town.. looking for help here...

What tooth ratio do you run on the RC51, i was thinking that a 16-41 would make it smoother in town. Any suggustions on that.. I have not put this baby on the track, mostly just 12:00's intown and twisties.. Its just a clutchy pain riding it in town.. looking for help here...

16 front, 42 rear

You got a great deal on that bike! I got an '01 basically stock for 4k. Anyway as far as tires go. If you want traction I got continental motion on my gsxr and they hold great. As for the RC I got continental attack. They don't grip as good but I get more mileage out of them than the motions. I ride the RC more and there isn't a track on Oahu, so it makes sense for me.

So I'm guessing over-population finally ended the drag strip/race track towards Barbers Point?
I used to go there quite often to watch the guys race their bikes in the late 70's.
Ever taken your RC51 up Tantalus drive? That should stretch you bike's cooling system to the max on the up hill section.
There's another similar road over towards Makaha that goes through the Naval comm station and over the mountain and dumps into Scholfield Barracks.
Both of the those roads will have you parking your bike at the peak to cool off from all those 1st and 2nd gear twisties.

Yea, Im finding out that shes a b‼tch to cruise town with.. But none the less those twin Yoshi cannons sound so good when I get in her... I think i'll be picking up another bike very shortly. And i stand corrected on the post, its not a Yoshi PC, its an EMS. Theres a cheap set of rubber on it now. Back tire just does not grip when i slip the clutch @ 4k.. JUNK!!! I'll have to get a new front gear this week. .... OK. heres a silly question. The air intake duct, there is a flapper on top of it connected to a vacuum line, (see, mines loose in there and does not seat in the intake duck like its supposed to. The damn thing jumps around when i goose it) I read that if you remove that so the flapper stays open all the time, it generates better air flow and in turn, more HP.. anyone verify this? Heres where i read it from.. http://www.rc51.org/valve.htm. Check it out, let me know what you guys think.. Thanks

It causes a dip in the torque curve. It's only purpose was to damp intake noise. Probably at the RPMs used during EPA sound checks I'm guessing.
You can disable it and remove all the hardware used and save a few pounds plus some needless complexity.

What tooth ratio do you run on the RC51, i was thinking that a 16-41 would make it smoother in town. Any suggustions on that.. I have not put this baby on the track, mostly just 12:00's intown and twisties.. Its just a clutchy pain riding it in town.. looking for help here...

I run 15/41 on mine. Others also run 15/42 or 15/43.

So I'm guessing over-population finally ended the drag strip/race track towards Barbers Point?
I used to go there quite often to watch the guys race their bikes in the late 70's.
Ever taken your RC51 up Tantalus drive? That should stretch you bike's cooling system to the max on the up hill section.
There's another similar road over towards Makaha that goes through the Naval comm station and over the mountain and dumps into Scholfield Barracks.
Both of the those roads will have you parking your bike at the peak to cool off from all those 1st and 2nd gear twisties.

Subsailor I think you are talking about KoleKole pass. Which is gated and only open on hours when people are going to or from work. I been on it once. Going down it will definitely keep you on edge. There is a road called "13 turns" that I will ride this weekend.

So, im logging more internet time doin research on the 51, (while getting paid). I ran across these other guys that talk about engine mods and upgrades JE Pistons, lightened crank, Carillo rods, Moriwaki Stage II cams and HRC springs, Moriwaki airbox.... My question is... (and this might be stupid) but wont the ECM pick up on these radical changes and then what, disable it, re-map it... Im almost sure these mechanical alterations would throw the FI light on.. the computer would be trying to correct a problem thats not actually there.. what to do here?

Best thing to do would be to dyno it and retune the ecu. Maybe even change the timing since so much would be done to the eternals. I don't really see the need in all of that. So much money would be needed, when for one it is fast enough and the newer liter bikes are just as good or better. But I still love my RC!

Grunt, i agree with you 100%, and the likely hood of me actually dumping the cash into this baby is not really good. I love the way this bike is, from twisties to the throttle response it has. My buddy has a 05' ZX10 and I dont feel like i have half as much control (that and im bias twards HONDAS) Ever since the dirt bike days, its always been a honda.. whoops, i guess i can tag in one 98 R6... but hey, everyone needs a mulligan for mistakes..LOL.. I like the idea of removing the cam silencing gear and overall losing weight there. but yea, the only thing that would make this baby even more sick is to pull the clutch in and hear this baby lopeing at an intersection...

So, im logging more internet time doin research on the 51, (while getting paid). I ran across these other guys that talk about engine mods and upgrades JE Pistons, lightened crank, Carillo rods, Moriwaki Stage II cams and HRC springs, Moriwaki airbox.... My question is... (and this might be stupid) but wont the ECM pick up on these radical changes and then what, disable it, re-map it... Im almost sure these mechanical alterations would throw the FI light on.. the computer would be trying to correct a problem thats not actually there.. what to do here?

The ECU only cares about it's sensor inputs and calculates fuel timing based on it's mapping.
By using a power commander, you alter the fuel timing map to compensate for additional air flow at a given RPM and throttle setting.
There's no need to use Carillo rods if you're using the stock 10.2K redline.
The high-compression pistons with stock valves will only yield about 11.4:1 compression. With HRC valves the compression will then jump to 12.8:1 as the HRC valves don't have the reliefs under the valve head.
With higher lift, longer duration cams, the effective compression ratio will fall slightly at idle due to overlap so the effective compression ratio may not be exactly 12.8:1 except at higher RPM. So it may run ok on the street with 93 octane pump gas.
To run the Moriwaki Stage 2 (or Kent) cams, you'll need to replace the valve springs, retainers, and seats with HRC items.