i have a few ideas on what to do to my rc51.

already has:
scorpion exhaust
steering damper
undertail
smoke windescreen
flush mount signal lights

ideas i have:
change gearing - to what?
oury hand grips
buell lower pegs

what about:
bar end weights - do the rc51 bars vibrate?

maintenance:
change fluids, brake, coolant, clutch(?), any other fluids?

anything else for me to look at?

Well when I bought my bike. I took all the fluids out and put all new back in. (that way I knew it was good.) Looked at the old oil to see if it had metal in it. Changed plugs, cleaned throttle bodies, cleaned and adjusted chain. I wanted the bike to be as close to new as I could get it when I got it home. Took all the plastic off and cleaned the motor, frame, rear shock. As you may tell, I like to keep my bike clean. :)

For "Mods":
The Flapper Valve.
The P.A.I.R Removal (the whole thing)
Had the stock rear fender. Trimmed it up so it wouldnt look so bad. (it is UGLY)

Future Mods are:
Euro front turn sig. (up in the headlight)
Fender Elem.
Chain/Sprocket Set
And those carbon radiator ducting assys
Oh and the most Important mod. lighten up the bike.

Do the 520 conversion with 15/41T or if theres lots of hills and twisties where you live go with 15/42T.

what is stock gearing? i know it's crazy tall and will have to be lowered.

Stock gearing it 16/40...And your right on when you say its "crazy" tall.

15/42 is better and whats the deal with buell pegs? I've never heard of this(which doesn't mean alot) neither has any of my more knowledgable 51 people.

1. drop a tooth from the front, even if you leave the rear
2. get a PC, a must even stock
3. get the front forks reworked at least
4. get a aftermarket shock
5. get pipes
6. get wheels

and all of that will cost about 4-5k
LOL

your point is?

i won't ride a rc51 without at least PC, 1 missing tooth, exhaust and reworked forks, the OEM bike is horrible the fueling is like a crystal meth addict drinking coffee

Well that fits me to a "T"... LOL

the fueling is like a crystal meth addict drinking coffee

Thats a damn good comparison

bike is home. 20some hours of driving and i'm exhausted. bed time.

thank you

horrid OEM i would say

They'll never be as smooth as an i4 atleast at low speeds anyways but with the right parts they can definately be made to feel better

I've never yet owned a big twin that liked low RPM operation.
The intake pulsing at low RPMs can cause flow disturbances that cause the engine to hiccup.
Especially if the engine is stock and is running leaner due to EPA regs.
A power commander can correct that and allow it run better.
I know that while my RC51 can chug at 3000 RPM, I know it doesn't like me much when I do and would prefer at least 3500 to 4000 RPM to be happy.

Unfortunately, traffic absolutely crawls with all the snow-geezers here in FL.
Come May, the heat will drive them back up north and I might be able to travel from point A to point B in my lifetime, until November when they return.

wheels are not a consideration. pc, i'll see how the bike rides when the snow is gone. slip ons are done, scorpions. suspension is not that important to me. drop a tooth is about 99% certain.

comfort mods?

the buell pegs are on my superhawk. they drop the peg height about an inch. they make an improvement. when i get a chance i will look to see if they'd work on the rc51. they are cheap too, 20 or 30 dollars.

did some tinkering and began getting familiar with my rc51. cleaned chain, polished this and that, etc...

when done i took it out. only went down the street on account of all the snow and 0*c temp. i had to fight the bars to steer the thing. it's totally different than my gixxer or vtr. i have to keep in mind: i haven't ridden in months, the front tire is toast, no steering damper.

My 2000 SP-1 so far:
Go:
PCIII with good map
CF Jardine hi-mount slipons (wish they were Ti)
'Free' mods
16/42 gearing
Scott's damper
Suspension tweaks at both ends
Vortex clipons
Harris rearsets (usually adjusted back and down for more legroom)
SP-2 rims and brakes
Galfer lines

Show:
Eurobikes undertail
Hugger
Smoke windscreen

and some other little things...

i got the brake and clutch fuids changed. put a better tire on the front and inflated it properly. installed the steering damper. changed the oil and filter. took bike down the street again and it was much better behaved. i'm happy!

yeah that guy (MRGRN) is awful hard the rc isnt he! i think in stock trim it is still an amazing bike. even if it is geared in the sky! i would recommend ak exhaust and a power commander and filter though! AN 1 DOWN IN THE FRONT.....AT LEAST!

i just thought of something else, the air filter. i should change it. i do think i will go stock as i haven't got, and am not getting, a pc.

gonna have to drop that one tooth on the front sprocket.

just replace with a new stock filter. The K&N's will hurt your performance.

And whatever you do try to save up some cash for a pc you won't be sorry.

i have the cash for a pc, i just don't believe in them. i've had lots of bikes with exhausts that performed well without a pc. i've had k&ns before with no ill effects too. that being said i will go with a stock air filter because like the pc, i don't believe the hype.

from what i understand, on the rc, the pc is not for compensating for the exhaust so much.. as it is helping with low speed fueling and hiccups.. someone correct me if im wrong.

i have the cash for a pc, i just don't believe in them. i've had lots of bikes with exhausts that performed well without a pc. i've had k&ns before with no ill effects too. that being said i will go with a stock air filter because like the pc, i don't believe the hype.

Thats the craziest thing I have ever heard. The hype has been proven time and time again when it comes to the power commander. To each his own I guess.

from what i understand, on the rc, the pc is not for compensating for the exhaust so much.. as it is helping with low speed fueling and hiccups.. someone correct me if im wrong.

YOUR WRONG!!!! Thousands of people arent spending their hard earned cash on pc's just so they can stop making them jerky at low rpm's. With exhaust and a pc with the correct map preferably a custom map alot of horsepower can be made all through the rpm range. This has been proven time and time again. Where is the all knowing subsailor at? He'll tell ya

Thats the craziest thing I have ever heard. The hype has been proven time and time again when it comes to the power commander. To each his own I guess.



YOUR WRONG!!!! Thousands of people arent spending their hard earned cash on pc's just so they can stop making them jerky at low rpm's. With exhaust and a pc with the correct map preferably a custom map alot of horsepower can be made all through the rpm range. This has been proven time and time again. Where is the all knowing subsailor at? He'll tell ya


EASY KILLER...

I didnt mean that the way you took it. What I meant was, he SHOULD get one because on this bike it really smooths the low speed fueling issues etc...

He was choosing not to simply based on not needing the performance gain.

All bikes for many years have had to tread the line between EPA regs and performance.
The end result are bikes that are tuned to the lean side of fueling.
And when bikes run lean, they lose power, tend to run hotter, and don't perform well at any RPM.

All the Power Commander does is interconnect between the ECU and injectors and alters the timing duration of the injectors to add more fuel and fatten up the fuel ratio.
The RC51 doesn't use lambda (oxygen) sensors, so it's even simpler than current bikes.

Most engines run closer to the stochiometric ratio of 14:1 (or even higher).
Great for emissions, sucks for power.
The optimal air/fuel ratio for power is around 13.2:1.

14.7:1 is what i always thought and wiki seems to back me up:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air-fuel_ratio

i certainly am not a pc believer. good friend had rc51. first pc never worked out well. second one didn't either. got rid of that garbage and the bike worked well.

It is that way SubSailor.
I only can agree to it.
I have none stutter at 2500-3500 rpm since I use the PC.
The RC runs now much better.
The mixture can get far too lean, without a right Map.
I had much temperature problems before.
The valves had got white colour.
Had therefore almost melted.

So ist es SubSailor.
Dem kann ich nur zustimmen.
Ich habe kein stottern bei 2500-3500rpm, seit ich den PC benutze.
Die RC läuft viel besser jetzt.
Ohne einer richtigen Map, kann das Gemisch viel zu mager werden.
Ich hatte vorher viele Temperatur Probleme.
Die Ventile hatten weiße Farbe bekommen.
Wären somit fast geschmolzen.

14.7:1 is what i always thought and wiki seems to back me up:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air-fuel_ratio

i certainly am not a pc believer. good friend had rc51. first pc never worked out well. second one didn't either. got rid of that garbage and the bike worked well.

With 14,7:1 the arithmetical example is.
the gas assumption is much too hard there.

Mit 14,7:1 ist das rechnerische Beispiel.
da ist die Gasannahme viel zu hart.

The mixture should be still a little fatter.
You can believe this.

Das Gemisch sollte immer etwas fetter sein.
Das können Sie glauben.

14.7:1 is what i always thought and wiki seems to back me up:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air-fuel_ratio

i certainly am not a pc believer. good friend had rc51. first pc never worked out well. second one didn't either. got rid of that garbage and the bike worked well.

Farther down the page on the above link you'll find this:
"For pure octane the stochiometric mixture is approximately 14.7:1 or λ of 1.00 exactly." (the chemically perfect burn ratio)

"In Naturally Aspirated engines powered by octane, maximum power is frequently reached at AFRs ranging from 12.5 - 13.3:1 or λ of 0.85 - 0.901."

what about a meter? does anyone here have experience with these?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BLACK-FACE-DIGITAL-WIDEBAND-AIR-FUEL-GAUGE-w-BOSCH-4-9_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ46100QQihZ016QQitemZ2 60394960741QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

where would the bung be welded into the exhaust? at the cross over point in the system?

i'm gonna read more on these meters.

It is better to coordinate the PC with a Widebandcommander in the driving conditions.
Her bike is adjusted exactly with that.

Besser ist es, mit einem Widebandcommander den PC im Fahrbetrieb abzustimmen.
Damit wird ihr Bike genau eingestellt.

what about a meter? does anyone here have experience with these?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BLACK-FACE-DIGITAL-WIDEBAND-AIR-FUEL-GAUGE-w-BOSCH-4-9_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ46100QQihZ016QQitemZ2 60394960741QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

where would the bung be welded into the exhaust? at the cross over point in the system?

i'm gonna read more on these meters.

The RC51 is a digitally mapped system and relies on various sensors (IAT, MAP, temp, RPM, etc) to calculate the fuel mix based on a stored map. It does not use a lambda sensor and doesn't have inputs for one.

It can't alter the map data by itself. If the map data is wrong, too bad. That's why you need to run your bike on a dyno to generate a map for your bike and conditions.

When a dyno run is made with the RC51, a lambda probe is inserted into the exhaust to measure the oxygen content during the run to fine tune the stored map.

More and more bikes these days incorporate the lamba sensor fastened into a bung located a short distance down from the head pipe.
The systems are a closed-loop type which constantly fine tune the stored map values and can offset the stored map values to some extent.

Note that the closed-loop feedback usually only works at throttle settings less than full. Once you get past 3/4 throttle, the system no longer uses closed-loop and relies totally on the stored map.

i'm not talking about tuning. i'm talking about a meter, or guage. lambda sensor sending a signal to a guage that i can watch as i ride. it won't adjust the a/f mix but it would tell me what it is as i ride.

as for closed loop tuning, that bazzaz unit is interesting. i don't think they have a model for the rc51 though.

oh, are there other tell tale signs to look for? stuff like the soot deposits on the end of your tail pipe? the color and condition of the spark plugs? anything else?

my Lambda Flange (http://www.vtr1000.de/forum/showthread.php?t=45470&highlight=kr%FCmmer)

widebandcommander (http://www.widebandcommander.com/)

my modifications
BKG fork bridgeBKG (http://www.vtr1000.de/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=60347&d=1239694196)
Titax brake lever clutch lever Titax brake (http://www.vtr1000.de/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=59972&d=1238418788) Titax clutch (http://www.vtr1000.de/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=59973&d=1238418797)
Akrapovic do-it-yourself 2-1 Akrapovic 01 (http://www.vtr1000.de/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=58999&d=1235495316) Akra polish (http://www.vtr1000.de/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=59319&d=1236309000)
Map for Powercommander
15/41 chain 525
Mychron Laptimer
Carbon clutch cover

meine Modifikationen
BKG Gabelbrücke
Titax Bremshebel Kupplungshebel
Akrapovic Eigenbau 2-1
Map für Powercommander
15/41 Kette 525
Mychron Laptimer
Carbon Kupplungs-Abdeckung

oh, are there other tell tale signs to look for? stuff like the soot deposits on the end of your tail pipe? the color and condition of the spark plugs? anything else?

On my bike, the exhaust deposits are a haze gray, as are the exhaust valves.
And the plugs look great at a nice tan color.

http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp158/rc51/sparkplug.jpg

http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp158/rc51/exhaustvalves.jpg

The coordination on the test bed is shit.
It is missing this one judges Air RAM effect.

Die Abstimmung auf dem Prüfstand ist Scheiße.
Es fehlt der richte Air Ram effekt.

i know that tan color on the plugs. eveytime i have even changed plugs i have always brought them to the shop for opinions. they always said they look good, even though i have never had a pc.

is anyone have used the performance speed chip that selling at Ebay?..A fren bought it & info that more power & the RPM feel lighter