Let's get the fun started. Who uses what oil, and why? Good results/bad results. Does anyone else like to experiment with changing oil brands/types/weights, or is it just me? Synthetic or dino? Any takers...

The Honda mechanic who works on my bike is an RC fanatic and he recommended Mobil synthetic. He has tried Ams Oil, Castrol, etc. and even compares synth vs. traditional and feels the synth gives better protection and yet is easier on the starter. I switched to a smaller battery (YTZ7S vs the 12S) to save a bit of weight up high, and running synth oil, no problem at all starting even on a cold Michigan morning. I hope this helps.
What have/are you used/using?

I gotta tell you, I started the thread because in my mind the jury is still out (and I like to hear what is working for others). My take on the whole subject is really simple. What is used is SECONDARY to how often the oil is changed. Your engine will perform better if the oil has little or no time to break down. Because my RC is used on the track exclusively, I change the oil after every track day and the filter after every other track day. Because of the frequency I've got to marry cost with results. What works for me? Shell Rotella Synthetic...about 15 bucks/gal. from Wally's.

I've got to believe your right about frequency vs type. Can you re-use synth oils if the filter is changed? I've heard pit monkeys bragging about re-using their synthetic oils and just changing filters. That scares me, but who knows. Have you heard of this?

It seems that I've heard of the filter switch/no oil switch before. For better or worse here's my reasoning. And, yes, I'm coming from the perspective of track, not street: It costs me $27.00 to do a oil/filter change. ($15.00 for the Rotella and $12.00 for the K&N oil ,filter. I know the arguments concerning using Honda filters in lieu of aftermarket items, including those of good reputation, like K&N products. But that's a WHOLE OTHER topic. The K&N works just fine for me.) Add to that approx. $3.00 tax. For $30.00, give or take, and about one half hour's time, INCLUDING new safety wire for the filter, drain-plug and the plastic fill-hole plug, (I've done it to the point of being able to repeat it in my sleep) and I've got the peace of mind knowing that lubrication issues don't exist, even for the off times when I change the oil only (every other time). I know that the street is a whole other animal, BUT, the approx. 3k miles between oil changes (which is what I think most manufactures recommend) is still too infrequent IMO. When I rode "off track" I'd change it every 1500 miles...both oil and filter.

Hey I am new to the RC world I just bought this bike off a friend in need of cash and I could not pass up the deal. I'm a gixxer girl I know don't kill me but I am riding the RC now. I have no clue what oil should be used. the bike is an 2002 with less then 6k miles on it full yosh system power commander all that fun stuff. I want to change the fluids before I get hot an heavy on it because I have no clue how these bikes operate I do know they get hot as hell lol. Any help will be great.

What an open-ended question. Depending on how frequently you change your oil (to me more is better) and how much you want to spend, your choices are pretty wide. I like synthetic because it doesn't break down as quickly. If you go that route remember to get MOTORCYCLE oil that's compatible with the wet clutch your bike has. BTW that's applicable regardless of what oil you choose. Honda oil is fine (it's made by Mobil) and comes in either fossil, semi-synthetic or full synthetic. You can't go wrong with any of these. I would highly recommend you check out the RC51's history. Go to Wikipedia and type in "RC51" it will give you a pretty detailed background. You will also discover that your riding style will change because you now own a bike with VERY linear power as opposed to your GSXR's inline four (or any inline four, regardless of make) which makes power with RPM's. If you really want to see what your bike can do consider doing track days. The RC was SPECIFICALLY made for the track. Unlike most other sportbikes, it's not a streetbike that gets dressed up for the track. Just the opposite! Being in Savannah you've got close proximity to VIR (Virginia Int'l Raceway) and Road Atlanta. Two great tracks. Check out NESBA they're a great trackday organization. GOOD LUCK and HAVE FUN!!!

what weight would you suggest im in savannah theres not a ton of twisties but its hot as hell and i do ride her often

You won't go wrong with a good 10-40.

Why experiment with oil? I'm a firm believer in sticking with what works.
If I bought a used RC51, I would ask the old owner, "What type of oil were you using? How long did you go between changes? Did you ever have any problems with it?"
If the answer to that last question is "No," why fix what ain't broke?

It's good to stick with what works. Some experimentation is also good. You may find something that works better. Maybe even save a buck or two...

Honda GN-4 works great for me.

Honda GN-4 works great for me.
Good stuff. You may want to try HP-4M semi-synthetic from Honda. I've used it in the past with great results...

i know this is an older thread butttttt.....

why not follow the factory recomendations? the weight and intervals. Honda is a large company to say the least and don't you think they have spent the $ on R & D?????? My owners manual states after the first 600mile change its only needed every 8k when riding in normal conditions. In my opinion, if you are a street rider you are wasting money, time, and hurting the environment if you change it more than the factory specs. well... you may be getting some piece of mind changing it more, but i haven't and my bike runs and starts awesome w/ 16k miles to date.

The only reason to change oil and filter is due to chemical and particulate contamination.
Unless oil is overheated beyond it's operating range, it's always good.
The viscosity modifiers (multi-weight additives) are what breaks down.
Synthetic oil has a higher operating temperature range (it was originally developed for jet engines).
It also seems to have lower friction than mineral oil.

I've always run synthetic in everything I own.
The engines just seem to last forever with hardly any deposits you'd get from mineral oil. Extra mileage too.

Ever wonder what happens to the all that used oil?
Recycled? I used to think so, but its' not.
It's filtered and then burned as fuel oil.
A shame because it's actually perfectly good oil.

I've used synthetic all these years mainly due to it's higher operating temp range, it's also generally a bit more slippery for less friction.

Oil changes are only due to chemical and particulate contamination.
Unless oil is overheated, it's pretty much perfectly usable.
The viscosity modifiers that give it multi-weight properties are also what break down over time.

If you could filter out all the chemicals and particles suspended in the oil, then add fresh viscosity modifiers, you could use the same oil indefinitely.

thanks for the great info... now this is what i was hoping for joining rc forum! ;)

Most of us have spent THOUSANDS on our bikes. For approx. $25.00 (assuming you do it yourself) an oil and filter change is the BEST way to ensure engine longevity. The more often the better. Regardless of what you prefer, synth or dino, all the experts agree on one thing: How often is FAR MORE critical than what type. (Before anyone comments, yes I am aware that we need to use MOTORCYCLE oil with enough friction for the wet clutch). When I was street exclusive it was every 1K miles, oil and filter. On the track, every other track day. For $25 it's the best insurance for the cheapest cost...

Most of us have spent THOUSANDS on our bikes. For approx. $25.00 (assuming you do it yourself) an oil and filter change is the BEST way to ensure engine longevity. The more often the better. Regardless of what you prefer, synth or dino, all the experts agree on one thing: How often is FAR MORE critical than what type. (Before anyone comments, yes I am aware that we need to use MOTORCYCLE oil with enough friction for the wet clutch). When I was street exclusive it was every 1K miles, oil and filter. On the track, every other track day. For $25 it's the best insurance for the cheapest cost...

Agreed.
As I stated (ad nauseum) above, unless the oil is damaged by overheating (unlikely with water-cooled engines) the main problem is contamination.
Fresh oil and filter take care of that.
Other than that, it's a personal preference (type/brand).

i'm not a huge track guy, but this business of changing oil every time out or every other time out may seem like good insurance but to a street rider like myself it also all seems excessive...ah, who am i to wonder... change your oil every time you get gas, i'm sure the mid east thanks us!

i'm not a huge track guy, but this business of changing oil every time out or every other time out may seem like good insurance but to a street rider like myself it also all seems excessive...ah, who am i to wonder... change your oil every time you get gas, i'm sure the mid east thanks us!

For street riding, I think there should be a balance in miles driven (and riding environment) and oil change intervals.
Wait too long and you may induce premature engine wear.
Change too frequently and (while your engine will love you) you'll be wasting money needlessly.
For track use, it's hours of operation as most industrial engines go by.

Since oil is pretty much perfectly good, any company that could develop a cost-effective technique of filtering/treating oil and returning it to operation would make big difference in oil consumption in the country (if you consider how many oil changes occur daily).
It's a shame that perfectly good (though contaminated) oil is burned as fuel when it could be used as lubrication.

I can't agree with you more...Do what makes you comfortable with respect to frequency of oil/filter changes. For me, changing every other track day makes perfect sense on many levels. Because of continuous running at high RPM's during 20-30 minute, nonstop, sessions (usually for 5 to 7 sessions per day), I don't want to worry about effective lubrication. Fossil starts to break down after hundreds of miles and synthetic, while not as effected as fossil, still breaks down. Not to mention the filter's loss of effectiveness between infrequent changes. I, like you, am very aware of what manufacturers recommend (allows would be a better term) with respect to oil changing frequency. I just happen to think that the cost, in terms of dollars, is worth it. With respect to the environment, we utilize a vehicle that in a vast majority of cases is the most fuel efficient on the road, while at the same time being more fun than almost anything else out there. I call that the best of both worlds...

Paisano,

Have you had to do any engine work yet (beyond valve clearance checks)?
I have no idea how many track days you do, but I was curious.

The engines these days are very well built.
The RC51 was designed as a race bike first and street bike second, so the engine is especially strong.
The oiling system was also designed for racing since it has two different circuits for rod and main bearings to save HP losses at the oil pump.

Mine is going on 36K miles and only needed one shim changed on an exhaust valve. Honda uses good metal on their valves.
I've heard some RC51 owners have gotten around 100K miles on their engines.

As of now the engine hasn't been touched. I'm still wrestling with the wheel issue! I have heard of RC owners sending their engines to Dan Kyle for a good "going over" and wound up on the near side of two hundred horses as a result. I have thought about it, but right now I'm not fast enough to justify the time or the cost. I know I haven't squeezed all of what the stock set-up can offer.

Just remember that the weak spot on the RC51 are the cams.
They are cast and not billet.
At any time you decide to go the route of increasing HP with higher lift/duration cams, you must go with billet cams and not re-faced (welded and re-ground) cams, as the underlying problem will still exist.
I've seen pictures of where the camshaft shears off at the lobe farthest from the drive gear.

I've also heard of the three different stages the engines were tuned for:
Stage 1 was stock with a nice tune, good for around 130 HP.
Stage 2 was with cams and hi-comp pistons for the Basic Racer and good for 150 HP.
Stage 3 was the HRC WSBK spec engine that put out 185 HP and needed engine parts replacement every 2500-3000 Km.

Has anyone tried Royal Purple?

If the results of the Amsoil comparison are accurate R.P. doesn't measure up to the other synthetics. Rather, their performance is like a good fossil, nothing more. See Amsoil's test results on their web site for the entire test and the results.

Wow

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/mcf.aspx

http://www.amsoil.com/graphs/motooils2005/hitemp_viscos_mcf_lg.jpg

http://www.amsoil.com/graphs/motooils2005/10W40_weartest_640.jpg

Paisano,

Have you had to do any engine work yet (beyond valve clearance checks)?
I have no idea how many track days you do, but I was curious.

The engines these days are very well built.
The RC51 was designed as a race bike first and street bike second, so the engine is especially strong.
The oiling system was also designed for racing since it has two different circuits for rod and main bearings to save HP losses at the oil pump.

Mine is going on 36K miles and only needed one shim changed on an exhaust valve. Honda uses good metal on their valves.
I've heard some RC51 owners have gotten around 100K miles on their engines.
When I bought the bike it had 12K miles. It was owned and raced by the local Honda dealer so all the scheduled service was done. I ran 7 (or 8) track days last year between June and Nov. Aside from changing oil/filter and the additional items I've added, nothing else has been done...

What is the recommended viscosity and amount for a change? I forgot since last doing it.

I use Honda Gen4 and I think its 10w-40

10W40 is recommended for the temperature range most of us will ride in (15 to 100 Deg. F). (per RC51 service manual)
You might need to go to 15W50 or 20W50 if the temperature far exceeds 100 Deg. F.
And possibly you might need 5W40 if the temp is below 15 Deg F. or below freezing.

3.7 US Qt, with oil change only.
4.1 US Qt, with oil and filter change.

Running in line with this discussion, has anyone gone as far as particle analysis after oil changes? There can be some revealing information come out of that method. Also, there is a kind of 'cover' that slips over the outside of your oil filter that is magnetised to stop the microscopic bits of metal that are too fine for the filter to deal with. Has anyone tried one of these babies?

The drain plug is magnetized to collect the iron bearing particles.

The drain plug is magnetized to collect the iron bearing particles.

Ah ha! This is good to know! I haven't owned my ride for more than 600 kilometres yet, and a full service was done just before I picked her up (@ 4,300 km's from new!), so I hadn't discovered the magnetised sump plug as yet!

Silkolene Pro4 15/50 Full ester.
Changed out every race. New filter every race.
Go Google the differences between ester based base oils and regular synthetics.
A little Moly makes it shift better. Too much and the clutch won't like it. "High mileage" or Energy efficient oils are to be avoided.
It is not JUST the additives that make an oil a given viscosity. When oil is used up...it's used up. Ester based oils will hold their viscosity longer than cheaper oils will. They will maintain their shear load properties longer. I also ride a pretty built DRZ440sm. I use the best oil I can find in it, and change the oil often. I race a Pro Mod Suzuki. It also gets the best oil I can find for it. Oil gets changes every pass.
Oil threads are interesting in that people will tell you what to put in your motor without having a clue...
I've seen the inside of my motors and know what works and that's why I use what I use.
I've found over the years what works for me.
What works for you may well be something different but I highly doubt it'll be some cheap 10/40.

The drain plug is magnetized to collect the iron bearing particles.

I correct my last statement.
After personally checking my bike, the oil drain plug is NOT magnetized.

I use Repsol full synthetic in all my bikes. I also change the filter every time!

I haven't heard anyone complaining about full synthetics causing clutch slippage, which I was concerned about. Will a full synthetic cause excessive clutch slippage or any other problems? My 05 is running GN4 right now, but I have always used Mobil1 synthetic in my vehicles, including my street/strip Cobra. I would feel better using it in my RC.

I haven't heard anyone complaining about full synthetics causing clutch slippage, which I was concerned about. Will a full synthetic cause excessive clutch slippage or any other problems? My 05 is running GN4 right now, but I have always used Mobil1 synthetic in my vehicles, including my street/strip Cobra. I would feel better using it in my RC.

Mobil-1 4T full synthetic is a good oil and cheaper than most full synthetics for bikes.
I'm using Motorex 10W50 synthetic right now simply due they were out of Mobil-1 4T (and paid more on top of it).

Make sure you get a full synthetic made for a motorcycle and you'll be fine.

I am current running amsoil 10w-40 and is good oil for sure even brought down the temp of the bike a couple of degrees and doesn't break the bank i'm thinking i'm going to try 20w-50 the next time and see how that works for me

Picked up 5 quarts of Mobil 1 4T today. I'll be changing the oil soon.

a fren of mine using Amsoil 20-50 on his 1098...he says better then 10-40...right now im using 10-40 amsoil....so what the different with 10-40 & 20-50..

honda gn4 1040 for me. just switched from motorex semi synthetic 1040

Mighty max, the 20-50 will be a bit thicker at temps and at cold startup. Theoretically, it should protect better at higher RPMs, but one would have to take into account the actual oil pressure and flow of the oil. It is very possible that heavier oil does not flow as well into certain areas as a thinner oil and it's possible that one would not get as much protection. Ambient cold start temps will also make a difference. I'm in Ohio and using 20-50 in a bike for regular street riding wouldn't be advisable unless it was only used for 2-3 months during the summer. At that point, why waste the money.

Anyway, I picked up a CBR600 F2 a few years back and was using Repsol Semi Syn. I was averaging around 43mpg with a new filter and oil change. Last year I ran the 5-40 Shell Rotella Full Syn and my mileage was up over 45mpg with nothing changed. This year I had to change my chain and switched to an XSO type chain and on my last fill up I averages 49.5 MPG.

Now, I have been looking at RCs now for about a year and trying to find the right one at the right price and in the right area for me. Maintenance was one of my worries, but it looks as if the RC engine would use the same oil as what I am used to and the engine is just as buletproof as my 92 with 38,000+ miles on it. So I'm glad to see all sorts of opinions and it's good to know that I don't need anything special.

I'll add my $0.02 in here too.... FWIW, I use Mobil 1 10w-40 in my F4i (yes, car oil, and no , it's not energy conserving ;)). Just over 167,000 miles on the original motor, been using this oil since 5000 miles, and changed every 5000 miles since. Engine is still spotless inside, and runs like brand new :)

Synthetic oil has a higher operating temperature range (it was originally developed for jet engines).It also seems to have lower friction than mineral oil.
I've always used synthetic oil in both my car as well as bike.
Unlike conventional mineral oil the quantity of deposits in the engine is negligible. synthetic also increases the mileage.

Hey all...

so as you know in previous posts ihave bee n trying to solve clutch launching issues...gonna start with the oils

What is the eqivellent of Shell Rotella in Australia?

Honda dealer said i should be using motul 5100 semi synthetic?

Opinions on these two oils only please

Seems like this topic comes up a lot. I typed in "mobil amsoil" in the search and got this. hope it helps ozzy, since I kinda jacked your launching thread. Hope you got some answers you were looking for from that thread. I too, am going to try changing oil before tearing into my clutch plates. I'm thinking Mobil 1, but not sure yet...
Slainte!
http://www.rc51forums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2713&highlight=mobil+amsoil
http://www.rc51forums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1963&highlight=mobil+amsoil
http://www.rc51forums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4155&highlight=mobil+amsoil
http://www.rc51forums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3780&highlight=mobil+amsoil
http://www.rc51forums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3775&highlight=mobil+amsoil
http://www.rc51forums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1426&highlight=mobil+amsoil

On the issue of Oil - I bought 10-50 fully synthetic for the oil change on my bike, which I am planning to do shortly.

However some two wheeled colleagues of mines recommended 10-40 semi instead as they think it will make my clutch slip?

Any experience of this or should I crack on with the 10-50 change.

Cheers,

I only use 10-40, the 50w oils get very thick at operating temp which is fine for say a slow reving air cooled engine like a harley, but the RC is still a modern engine with very fine clearences so needs good oil flow at high revs.You can end up with less oil flow with a 50w oil, its harder to pump around the engine, it will get bypassed through the oil pump relief valve.
The RC manual does list a 20-50w oil, but you want good oil flow from a cold start also.

The biggest issue is..... What are the specs of the oil you are looking at ?

The Best isn't cheap
Cheap isn't The Best

Bob