Not really a new rider...but - Honda RC51 Forum : RC51 Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-31-2013, 12:18 PM Thread Starter
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Not really a new rider...but

Hey guys! I joined a while back, I was planning on getting a sp2 but the deal went south and I had to bail.I still have yet to ride a rc51 .
Ive been Riding since 2007, Took my msf advance course 2 weeks after buying a new 07 r6. Modded it alot. full sato Ti. pc3 ect..Did a bunch of trackdays in 2007 and in 2008 stripped it and made it a full trackday bike. Lowsided it in 2009 (exhaust and body damage) and traded it for a friends 06 636 track bike which didnt need any repairs, I rode it once. I also picked up a ported/piped rz350 that I rode around on the street around 2009 (still got it but its stripped to the frame) At this point I hadnt had a Rideable bike since 2010. I the got a 08 Drz400sm late last year and its been a blast around town quick runs to wherever, finding new routes, shortcuts sidewalks ect.. But not enough power or people to ride that kinda style with. I have modded it up from around 30 to maybe 40-45hp but with the short gearing and only 5 speeds Its only fun up to about 60mph also any highway sucks, just theyre nature.. Well I just sold it and am looking at the rc51 again. Well I found a good looking 2000 sp1 with decent mods



Its got 12k miles SATO EXHAUST SYSTEM,PC3 ,HID ,FENDER DELETE ,HOT BODIES UNDERTAIL FULL SERVICE JUST DONE NEW TIRES,BRAKES,FORK SEALS,FLUID CHANGE

The owner said it has a clean title. Kbb shows them being worth an average of 3600(is this accurate?) I offered him 3900 over the phone and he reluctantly accepted the offer. I will be going monday to check it out.
Anyways good deal, bad deal, great deal? Also did any 2000s come in black?
Anything I should look out for? Worth trying to negotiate a lower price? I dont wanna offend the guy and have him retract the previous offer. Any input Is welcome positive or negative haha. I appreciate it all. Thanks guys and Happy Easter!
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-31-2013, 12:47 PM
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05 and 06 ONLY years that come in black..
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-31-2013, 01:11 PM Thread Starter
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05 and 06 ONLY years that come in black..
Thanks. I figured. Worst case scenario it was dropped or crashed. Any easy tell tale signs of crashes ? Do they crash well?
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-31-2013, 01:13 PM
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If it's 2000, there's a couple things I noted.
The swingarm is correct for 2000.
The rims are also correct.
The fairing stay/bracket isn't. 2000 had a black iron one.
No black 2000's, so it's been repainted, or that's an aftermarket plastics kit.
Look at the fairings very closely, look for cracks or breaks at all the mounting points, I bet she's been down.
If you go to low on your offer, he may keep the sato's. They should be SP1 sato's with mids. Very Valuable Very Rare. He could sell those on any forum for $1000 - 1500 depending on condition.
My personal opinion is the bike is priced pretty damn good for it's condition.
But also, I'm in CA, so all my pricing advice is based on my region. I didn't see where you're from.

Buy It!

John, 2000 RC51 #000100

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-31-2013, 07:12 PM
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Welcome. Don't be in a hurry to get the first bike that looks good.
That bike has 100% been down. You can see the fasteners are not originals, so that would mean they were probably lost when the panels were taken off? They're not necessarily better after market items like Probolt either...

The wheels may have been rattle can sprayed. If so, it won't stay on very well. Expect to have to powder coat them if you see this when inspecting the bike.

That large dimple on the side of the fairing indicates it's not fitting properly. Is the bracket bent, or are these ill fitting prone to breaking / melting chinese panels?
If just these two pictures reveal what's wrong, there's bound to be a lot more...

I'd want to ride it and make sure it's good, also take the side panels off and check behind them before making a decision if I were you. Don't let you heart rule your mind. Wait till you find a better one, you've waited this long already... there's bound to be better, assuming you can afford it. Have you checked the bikes for sale on here? Idrivetoys' bike is a lot better and a proper honest machine.

Euro RC51 SP2: HRC WSB Ti Hi-Level, T1 Airbox & Snorkel, PCIII, Dymag CA5 Carbon Wheels, Ti64 Spindles (F, R & Swing Arm), Mori Link, Maxton GP7 Shock & Ohlins 832 Forks, Brembo GP Calipers & SBK narrow track (F), Braketech Disc (R), Brembo billet Underslung x 2 Brembo RCS, Tyga Triple, 7075 Stem, Probolt Titanium all over, Babyface rearsets, MR Complete Carbon Lineup, Custom Undertail & CBR 1000 LED, Watsen LED Indicators, Harris Brace, Giles clip-ons, Corbin seat, etc. 2013 BOTY.

Last edited by The Stig; 03-31-2013 at 07:17 PM.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-31-2013, 08:05 PM Thread Starter
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Welcome. Don't be in a hurry to get the first bike that looks good.
That bike has 100% been down. You can see the fasteners are not originals, so that would mean they were probably lost when the panels were taken off? They're not necessarily better after market items like Probolt either...

The wheels may have been rattle can sprayed. If so, it won't stay on very well. Expect to have to powder coat them if you see this when inspecting the bike.

That large dimple on the side of the fairing indicates it's not fitting properly. Is the bracket bent, or are these ill fitting prone to breaking / melting chinese panels?
If just these two pictures reveal what's wrong, there's bound to be a lot more...

I'd want to ride it and make sure it's good, also take the side panels off and check behind them before making a decision if I were you. Don't let you heart rule your mind. Wait till you find a better one, you've waited this long already... there's bound to be better, assuming you can afford it. Have you checked the bikes for sale on here? Idrivetoys' bike is a lot better and a proper honest machine.
Thanks for the responses! As for location,I am in Texas

Very observant eye! I didnt notice the fastners or the HUGE dimple haha.
Its about a 2.5 hr drive just to check it out. I will be riding it and ask to take off the panels to check it. I do have a bit more from selling my previous bike but the wife is already giving me a hard time about replacing it so quick. Id really like to get a nice sp2 but dont have that kind of cash right now.
And I will ever finance a bike again lol. Should I use the obvious issues to drive the price down more or walk away? This is all considering it runs good and has NO mechanical issues in which I wont consider it whatsoever.
Any mechanical issues I should be aware of that can happen during a crash?
The guy Is sending me more pictures and Just told me they are painted stock pieces and the wheels are powdercoated.

edit: was just told its been dropped but not crashed...

Last edited by ae8620v; 03-31-2013 at 08:08 PM.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-31-2013, 08:21 PM
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I think that he didn't state it's been damaged before (Which is obvious to someone who knows these bikes, but not all) is not a good start in being able to trust him. It's not to say all crashed bikes are bad, but the repair is only as good as the guy who has done the work & that one looks as if it's been done cheaply and not with a lot of attention to detail to me, but I'm probably more fussy than most!

I'd also want to ride it and make sure it doesn't jump out of gear, engine doesn't smoke when cold, make sure the radiators aren't bent, etc. Seems a lot of paint to do if the bike's only been dropped on it's side. Surely it would have been cheaper to do just the side panel & top cowl and keep it original.

A bike like this is worth less than something original. Wait and find a better one is what I'd do. Buying this one, if you're fussy you'll probably find yourself spending the difference making it nicer and putting in a lot of time. Another project for the garage?

Euro RC51 SP2: HRC WSB Ti Hi-Level, T1 Airbox & Snorkel, PCIII, Dymag CA5 Carbon Wheels, Ti64 Spindles (F, R & Swing Arm), Mori Link, Maxton GP7 Shock & Ohlins 832 Forks, Brembo GP Calipers & SBK narrow track (F), Braketech Disc (R), Brembo billet Underslung x 2 Brembo RCS, Tyga Triple, 7075 Stem, Probolt Titanium all over, Babyface rearsets, MR Complete Carbon Lineup, Custom Undertail & CBR 1000 LED, Watsen LED Indicators, Harris Brace, Giles clip-ons, Corbin seat, etc. 2013 BOTY.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-31-2013, 09:02 PM Thread Starter
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Still waiting on more pics from that guy.... Might be moving on thanks to youre advice.
Right now I am in contact with the person selling this one...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Honda...7fd89277#v4-36 Havent talked price yet though.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-31-2013, 09:13 PM
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And not to mention the cheap POS eBay undertail...mine came with one of those and was quickly replaced.

Good luck in your search.



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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-31-2013, 09:23 PM
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If I'm not mistaken, that looks like an SP2 swing arm, which could mean it is an SP2 (Did SP2's come out in the US that year just like the rest of the world? I think so, but check with the seller). The SP2 has a lot of differences that aren't immediately obvious until you really compare (Although both are great bikes and riding wise, there's not a lot in it). Most would have an SP2 over an SP1, as it has things like lighter wheels, better swing arm design, thicker front discs, larger steering stem diameter, different (lighter) seat frame, etc.

You'll be able to tell if it's been down by looking at each panel very carefully, check mirrors, bar ends, foot pedals, spindles, etc. Check carefully also for signs of repair to the inside of the front upper cowl. All these should give clues to the condition and history of the bike. Check also the engine - taking the side panels off - for corrosion, bent radiators, etc. Also if this is with a mature owner, how long has he had it?

I don't know why people use rubbish pictures to sell vehicles sometimes but it may work out to your advantage in this case.
An adult owner may mean it hasn't been wheelied, etc. which can lead to gearbox problems. The less abused a bike is, the better it'll be.

He doesn't mention a Power commander, which ideally should be fitted if using after market exhausts, although those Yoshimuras will probably run OK with the standard fuel map. I don't know... but plan on that as an upgrade sometime. It's possible to pick up a PC3 for cheap.

If it's got an LED undertail, check it's (a). bright enough in the dark, (b). well fitting, (c). wiring's not a mess under the seat cover.

You should also have a passenger seat pad together with the solo tail cover as shown in the picture. Make sure there's a tool kit too.

Chain should be checked too for wear (tight spots) and sprocket (back one will tell) too. Ask what gearing he's using. If it's something like 15/41 or 15/42 then he's obviously researched the best ratio for road use. Doesn't mean it's bad if he hasn't though. I'm sure many people use standard gearing.

It's best to tentatively talk price but say the final decision is based on inspecting the bike. If the machine's really good and you get a good feeling from the seller, be good to the guy and give him a bit more than you negotiated or a decent offer, life's not always about getting the most & giving the least. A good SP2 is worth the asking price, if it's really sweet.

From the miniscule undetailed pictures on Ebay it looks a better bike than the black one to me, but you'd need to check it well & carefully to know for yourself.

Good luck!

Euro RC51 SP2: HRC WSB Ti Hi-Level, T1 Airbox & Snorkel, PCIII, Dymag CA5 Carbon Wheels, Ti64 Spindles (F, R & Swing Arm), Mori Link, Maxton GP7 Shock & Ohlins 832 Forks, Brembo GP Calipers & SBK narrow track (F), Braketech Disc (R), Brembo billet Underslung x 2 Brembo RCS, Tyga Triple, 7075 Stem, Probolt Titanium all over, Babyface rearsets, MR Complete Carbon Lineup, Custom Undertail & CBR 1000 LED, Watsen LED Indicators, Harris Brace, Giles clip-ons, Corbin seat, etc. 2013 BOTY.

Last edited by The Stig; 03-31-2013 at 09:33 PM. Reason: More info to add...
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