When the man is right, he's right.
I worked as a mechanic on AAV's (Google image "AAVP7A1") for 6 years, with them sitting for half their life and in saltwater for the other half, you lean fast that those damn things won't run long with out it.
Sub, I always enjoy reading your posts, always very informative.
Pulled my ECU, found some light corrosion on a few of the pins. Cleaned them off, problem still exists. On at 219 off 211
Wouldn't extra resistance from corrosion or tarnish also throw off the temperature display too?
Well...Time to pull the air box
and all that mess to get to the ECT. Then figure out a way to test the resistance at 230
I wonder if my stove can push water that far past boiling.
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Since the ECT gives the ECU the input of coolant temperature based on variable resistance, any change in resistance will alter the perceived coolant temp, and what is displayed by the ECU (which controls the instrument display).
There is the possibility that the ECT itself may be failing internally.
So if all your contacts are clean and you're still getting faulty readings or fan operation, then it might be the ECT itself. Nothing lasts forever.
The thing is, your ECU is going by what the ECT is sending, despite what the actual coolant temp is.
But your numbers are close to what the manual says.
For the SP1, Fan On is at 208-216 F, and Fan Off is at 199-207.
I'm sure the SP2 follows similar temps, though not stated.
For my SP2, it's been Fan On at 218 F, and Fan Off at 205-210 F.
Yours is Fan On at 219 F, Fan Off at 211 F.
I'm wondering if 1 deg F difference for both is ok and not worth the effort.