Sanding & painting fairings - Honda RC51 Forum : RC51 Motorcycle Forums
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-19-2014, 02:42 AM Thread Starter
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Sanding & painting fairings

So as summer approaches, I have finally gotten my tracking a fairings for the RC. A buddy of mine happened to have two uppers and two lower fairings, were not sure of the brand but they're pretty sturdy, very dusty and unfortunately scratched ;(

My goal is to plasti dip my Rc. I've already and plainly plasti dipped (spray can) parts of my bike that aren't scratched, such as the front & back tire huggers. My tank is also plasti dipped. Although I didn't really like the way the paint came out because the paint itself would be bubbly once I started to apply a light or thick coat with distance. No matter how long I shook the can or sprayed from a distance, the paint would be bubbly and therefore create texture, but that's a different story.

To get to the point, I want to sand down the upper and lower fairings so it's one whole flat surface, that way when I apply plasti dip, the scratches are not visible and the fairings end up being a nice flat surface so the paint looks nice!

Any recommendations on going about this process? What kind of sand paper, how many different grits do I use, etc. Here are some photos to give you ideas of the scratches.
Oh yeah and I used zip ties to hold the fairings in place until I get the fasteners lol so don't judge! Also, don't be fooled by quality of the photos work in progress! Click image for larger version

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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-26-2014, 12:44 PM
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Ive had to fix my zx7r plastics before and you wanna start with like a 180 grit and go all tje way up to a 1000 grit to get rid of all defects. Ive been thinging of doing that dip to my bike too but wasnt really sure how it would turn out so i may just have it professionally wrapped in vinyl...not really sure yet
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-27-2014, 08:53 PM
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Theres a great thread on this, I fell on it the other day so have no idea where it was...

Let me search for that for you

https://www.rc51forums.com/forums/sho...hlight=sanding

This is what James uses for sandpaper

http://voices.yahoo.com/what-grit-sa...23.html?cat=27

Has just realized that I don't care what it costs until I get the bill! :roll eyes: ...

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PARTS FOR SALE!

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-27-2014, 09:14 PM
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Use some filler to smooth over imperfections and sand with a rubber wet sanding block and soapy water. You can also use cellulose stopper for filling finer scratches that you can feel with your nails. You may need to re-apply filler if you don't put on enough. It's better to put too little & sand then re-apply - than pasting on too much as it it were porridge...

You might also want to buy some www.plastex.net and use it to bond plastic over the holes you have in the fairing. Use masking tape tightly applied over the holes and apply plastex with FRP matting on the other side. Ready to work with after 30 mins.

You can use an orbital sander if you have one but not a problem if not. Start with say 320 grit and work your say down through 600, then 800. 1000 is really more for wet sanding before polishing - and will be too time consuming. Assuming you do a good job the surfaces should then be fine to then have panels plasti-dipped.

TBH I've never done plasti-dipping but I've done plenty of preparation for paintwork and seen it done for years when I was a kid hanging around my dad's car restoration shop.
For the difference in cost of plasti-dipping I'd probably opt for paint but if you do decide to go for paint, make sure the surfaces are super clean and free of silicones, etc. or you'll be having it done again.
Shouldn't be too expensive for a paint shop to spray your panels if you do the preparation well. They'd just spray filler primer, sand lightly to perfect any minor blemishes then spray a few coats and finally lacquer. I suspect you'll get a much better finish than a plastic coating which may later come unstuck since there's probably no chemical etching there? Like I say, I'm not familiar with plasti-coating so I can't say for sure.. HTH anyways.

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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-27-2014, 09:38 PM
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Alright sir, if it was me id buy a 4 or 5 inch electric d.a. orbital sander from the depot and get some Velcro backed paper. the 220 grit of that variety is fine enough for most basecoats. the 120 is good for the deep scratches, you can sand some serious scratches out of plastic, but glass not so much because it is layered. Those SANDPAPER numbers sound coarse but that paper is finer, id say 220 is like 4-600 wetsand paper. 1000grit and up is usually reserved for the punishing task of wetsanding clearcoat,or polishing plastic hazed headlights.don't use the edge of the sander, and stay away from the curves around the seat. Use a foam block behind the paper or double the paper over and sand in circles by hand. don't sand in straight lines with fingertips. use acetone or isopropyl alcohol for cleaner, or wax and grease remover. and clean before you do any sanding. the electric d.a. will get that lower/upper sanded in about 20 min. but don't do it in the living room-makes dust. cant tell from the pics how deep the scratches are but maybe a light coat of bondo ? id recommend hand sanding the bondo. I wouldn't do the plasti dip myself but itll be a good look. If you figured it all out or you think im wrong disregard the above. happy sanding
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-27-2014, 10:12 PM
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...Remember to avoid going through the gel coat wherever possible. In the event you decide to paint, you'll find the pores in the FRP can cause fish-eyes in the finish. You only need to know about Duckhunter's struggles with this to realise you probably don't want to sand with paper that's too coarse for too long...

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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-29-2014, 10:09 AM
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I've read to sand out to 1000 in a couple of plasti dip topic threads. Is that something that's done when using plasti dip Vs paint?

I've always been told to not go any higher than 600 before painting.

Right now I have my repaint project sitting with one coat of high build primer that has been wet sanded with 600. Before priming the fairings and tank was sanded out with 400.
My plans are to lay another coat of primer, wet sand with 600 before spraying color.

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Stig View Post
...Remember to avoid going through the gel coat wherever possible. In the event you decide to paint, you'll find the pores in the FRP can cause fish-eyes in the finish. You only need to know about Duckhunter's struggles with this to realise you probably don't want to sand with paper that's too coarse for too long...
Now this kind of scares me. I had to sand down through the outer coating in a few places to remove some deeper rash.
Would fisheyes show up in primer?



I've talked to a couple auto body guys about the info in the link above and they both said that it is a good guide to follow.

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