need electrical help!! - Honda RC51 Forum : RC51 Motorcycle Forums
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-25-2011, 11:32 AM Thread Starter
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need electrical help!!

Ok so I was riding and my bike died at the stop light, and won't turn back over. Battery is dead. So I push it to a auto store and borrow. Jump box and it fires right up, take the cables off and it dies. So possibly the alternater but the battery test said 14 volts and the diodes are bad so someone mentioned Stator. So I'm here on my phone at the store just hoping ill have some info from you fine gentleman before I get home later. Thanks in advance

Ryan
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-25-2011, 12:33 PM Thread Starter
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I found a few threads on here about similar stuff going on so when I get my back back to the house ill try some stuff out
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-25-2011, 09:48 PM
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Try the regulator rectifier
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-25-2011, 11:43 PM Thread Starter
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The battery doesn't seem to keep a good charge at all when a starting load is put on it. What should it drop to during start up? I'll check the rectifier tomorrow, got home too late after going to get the.bike
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-26-2011, 09:56 AM
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If you have digital multimeter, you can disconnect the stator from the rectifier/regulator and measure each coil resistance, plus each coils to ground.
Each coil should measure around .2 to .5 ohms, and open (infinite resistance) from each coil to ground.

Next you can measure the leakage current from the battery to ground.
It shouldn't be over .1 mA.
If it does show a value over this, then you have a short somewhere.

If that's ok, then the next item is the rectifier/regulator.
Start the bike and measure the charging voltage. It should be 13.5V to 15V.
It should never be over 15V and if under 13V, then it's not charging the battery properly.

A fully charged battery should be around 13V, and needs charging if it's below 12V.
If the battery is at or less than 11V it's essentially dead and needs charging.
Every battery has a life span, and a battery can get to a state where it won't take or hold a charge.

I've had batteries that discharged internally, and would be stone cold dead the next morning. Or can develop a bad cell, so while the rest of the cells are fully charged, the overall voltage would still only be 10 or 11V.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-26-2011, 11:05 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks sub, ill check those out this evening I hope. I took jumped cables from my bike terminal and let the bike run using my truck battery with the truck off. It ran like normal and didn't shut off, I'm not sure if that narrows anything out of the picture but I hope to have it fixed today if its the battery, I miss riding already and its been 24 hours
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-26-2011, 11:24 AM
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Hey man,
I have a digital multimeter if you need you borrow one.

James
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-26-2011, 11:58 AM Thread Starter
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I have a nice fluke as well, thanks for the offer James , its back in j ville now, I came back up last night and got it
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-27-2011, 08:07 PM Thread Starter
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Took my battery back in, it rated 100 CCA, a new replacement has at least 300CCA so i replaced the battery and it runs great, now to see if it lasts. the odd thing was it held 12 or 13V easy until a load was put on it, then they disappeared.
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