FI Light Decel Pop - Honda RC51 Forum : RC51 Motorcycle Forums
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-16-2011, 03:12 PM Thread Starter
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FI Light Decel Pop

UPDATE: I went and did everything SubSailor suggested and now it has no FI light which I guess is good. I then updated the PC firmware, tweaked the accelerator settings, and fixed the throttle position readings in the PC (it was off by about 4%). Doing that I put her back together ran her up and down the road running the throttle all the way to 100% and no light...also no decel flames anymore even at temperature! Until this starts again I guess thanks for the suggestions and the help all! Guess my RC has periods too...
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Ok first off im sorry if this is the wrong location to post this.

I have an 01 with flapper and pair mod along with full satos and pc3. SP2 injectors, tank, and airbox as well. I don't know where else to turn, all my searching hasnt helped me at all.

Right:
Idles fine
Cant feel any power loss
No hiccups or cutouts

Wrong:
1. FI Light with no blinking, just comes on and stays on for awhile
-Checked the PGM-F1 fuse(fine)
-ECM works because the engine still runs?
-If it was the bank angle sensor wouldn't it kill the engine?
2. I noticed that when the FI light is illuminated the RC pops much more on decel and the engine doesnt "brake" as much

My thinking is that there might be something wrong with the injectors or the fuel/air mixture? I tried another map for the pc3 but it still happens and the baro sensor is fine. I could be way off but any help is appreciated thank you!

Wanted to add that the decel pop isnt caused by lose exahust connections. It only happens excessively when the FI light is on.

Last edited by therikoxide; 09-16-2011 at 06:43 PM.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-16-2011, 03:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by therikoxide View Post
Ok first off im sorry if this is the wrong location to post this.

I have an 01 with flapper and pair mod along with full satos and pc3. SP2 injectors, tank, and airbox as well. I don't know where else to turn, all my searching hasnt helped me at all.

Right:
Idles fine
Cant feel any power loss
No hiccups or cutouts

Wrong:
1. FI Light with no blinking, just comes on and stays on for awhile
-Checked the PGM-F1 fuse(fine)
-ECM works because the engine still runs?
-If it was the bank angle sensor wouldn't it kill the engine?
2. I noticed that when the FI light is illuminated the RC pops much more on decel and the engine doesnt "brake" as much

My thinking is that there might be something wrong with the injectors or the fuel/air mixture? I tried another map for the pc3 but it still happens and the baro sensor is fine. I could be way off but any help is appreciated thank you!
Switch your engine off and connect across the two pins of the green service connector under you rear trunk cover.
Then switch on the ignition, start the engine, and and check the type and number of flashes of the FI indicator.

A longer duration flash are a 10's place, and shorter flashes are 1's places.
A short pause will be between each code.
The ECU will show the codes in order from smallest to largest number.

Since the ECU stores all codes it has detected over time, it may be best to clear existing codes so that only current codes are displayed.

If you have the service manual in paper or electronic form, check the section on PGM-FI Self Diagnosis on checking or clearing the codes.

If you do not have the service manual, download the electronic form from this link.
http://www.rc51.info/index.php?page=service
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-16-2011, 03:53 PM
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As SubSailor was saying about the blinks. The short blink is .5 second, the long blink is 1.3 seconds. Don't know how long the pause is, but it's obvious.

The full PGM-FI starts in section 5-11 of that online manual in SubSailors link. After you download the US version, that is.

John, 2000 RC51 #000100


Last edited by jondog9; 09-16-2011 at 04:02 PM. Reason: correction
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-16-2011, 03:57 PM
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SubSailor is the guru of these parts so I'd put all my faith in his diagnosis.

Now for my personal untrained and totally non-technical assessment: I'd have to say that it's likely the Satos, and the only real cure is to swap them straight across for my Yosh pipes (be happy to pay shipping both ways) off my SP2.

Duct tape can't fix stupid...but it sure helps muffle the sound
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-16-2011, 04:36 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SubSailor View Post
Switch your engine off and connect across the two pins of the green service connector under you rear trunk cover.
Then switch on the ignition, start the engine, and and check the type and number of flashes of the FI indicator.

A longer duration flash are a 10's place, and shorter flashes are 1's places.
A short pause will be between each code.
The ECU will show the codes in order from smallest to largest number.

Since the ECU stores all codes it has detected over time, it may be best to clear existing codes so that only current codes are displayed.

If you have the service manual in paper or electronic form, check the section on PGM-FI Self Diagnosis on checking or clearing the codes.

If you do not have the service manual, download the electronic form from this link.
http://www.rc51.info/index.php?page=service
Ok so i checked it out and at first it threw me 18 (but engine starts), 8 (maybe pc3?), 10(im only at 32ft so maybe this true?), 9, and 1. It only cycled through once though so I THINK this is what it was...

Im not the savviest about the RC but i dont think all that can be wrong at once, also thats the order it threw them in. After I cleared it, removed the jump and turned it on the light was out, but when i kept the jump in it stayed on and thats it..no more codes

From the original set...I have my suspicions about it being a loose conncetions somewhere because it would only come on every once in awhile and then "cure" itself

Last edited by therikoxide; 09-16-2011 at 04:40 PM.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-16-2011, 05:39 PM
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Disconnect the PCIII and connect the bike back to the stock ECU to eliminate the PC being NG......good luck.



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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-16-2011, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
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Disconnect the PCIII and connect the bike back to the stock ECU to eliminate the PC being NG......good luck.
That might be best. I'll run it without the PC for a little bit and see what happens. Think maybe this PC one just took a dump?

Quote:
SubSailor is the guru of these parts so I'd put all my faith in his diagnosis.

Now for my personal untrained and totally non-technical assessment: I'd have to say that it's likely the Satos, and the only real cure is to swap them straight across for my Yosh pipes (be happy to pay shipping both ways) off my SP2.
Haha I sure that would solve all the problems

Last edited by therikoxide; 09-16-2011 at 06:43 PM.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-16-2011, 06:45 PM
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I've got the exact same FI light, pop during decel problem, mine is first year 2000, also with Sato's and flapper mod. I will disconnect my PC3 as well this weekend and report back. Compare notes this weekend. Hopefully between the two of us we can come to some consensus of what the problem is.

ARSEY51
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-16-2011, 07:03 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ARSEY51 View Post
I've got the exact same FI light, pop during decel problem, mine is first year 2000, also with Sato's and flapper mod. I will disconnect my PC3 as well this weekend and report back. Compare notes this weekend. Hopefully between the two of us we can come to some consensus of what the problem is.
Did you update your firmware? That was the first thing I did and then made sure my throttle reading were correct in the PC. Mine were WAY WAY off 4% closed and 100% was thousands over what it could actually do. Thirdly I tweaked the accelerator settings to 20 cycles, 30%, and i think 70% sensitive and it got rid of the decel pop and the light hasnt shown up again

I dont know how these settings actually run on a daily use but they seem to work right now :/
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