Fuel Pump Not Priming - Honda RC51 Forum : RC51 Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 54 (permalink) Old 01-04-2012, 08:47 PM Thread Starter
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Fuel Pump Not Priming

Whats up everyone. I am having issues with the fuel pump not priming. I have checked almost all the threads on here that has to do with it and I have tried almost everything to try to fix the problem. Ill just start with what had happend to bring me to this issue.

I had put a PC3r on my Rc and it was popping even with the correct map. Shortly after installing the PC3r, I was having issues with keeping the motorcycle running for longer than 10 seconds. Thinking that it was a filter issue, I decided to change out the filter on the bike. Still I was having the same issues. I then thought that it was the power commander so I removed it until I was able to bring the bike to a shop to have the PC3r fine tuned. The bike went back to running as normal. Just to be sure, I went and took it for a quick spin around the block. I didnt even make it 200 yards and the bike just shut off. I noticed that no fuel was priming. I also heard the normal click that you would hear as well coming from the back of the tail. The click I am assuming is coming from the bank angle sensor.

Since then, I have swapped out my headlight relay with the bank angle sensor as well as the fuel cut off relay. I am still havint the same click within the tail. I check out the bank angle sensor and visually, it seems good as well. No matter what relay I change out and put in the fuel cut off or the bank angle relay, I know that the relay that I am swapping them with is working because I know my hi beam goes on.

Any help that you guys can prive would be awesome. It seems I have spent more time fixing this bike than riding it. let me know your thoughts. Thaks fellas.

Vince
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post #2 of 54 (permalink) Old 01-04-2012, 10:02 PM
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Since your relays seems to work fine, you should also check the kill switch's wiring.
That switch kills the current flow to the starter relay from which the pump's relay is powered from.
That's why, when you have your kill switch to RUN position, turning the main switch on, you can hear you pump working for a couple of secs, but if your kill switch is in OFF position, you don't.


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post #3 of 54 (permalink) Old 01-04-2012, 10:33 PM
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These kill switches have also been known to fail due to corrosion from the weather.
This is why I always push the dielectric grease for all electrical contacts.

We used to use this stuff in the Navy when splicing guidance wires on the torpedos.
Also the auto manufacturers make it a requirement for electrical connectors as well.
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post #4 of 54 (permalink) Old 01-05-2012, 01:24 AM
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These kill switches have also been known to fail due to corrosion from the weather.
This is why I always push the dielectric grease for all electrical contacts.

We used to use this stuff in the Navy when splicing guidance wires on the torpedos.
Also the auto manufacturers make it a requirement for electrical connectors as well.
Absolutely true that is the best solution.....next best thing to that, is lots of WD-40 (penetrating oil) through the gash around the switch and through the draining holes underneath, working it on and off ten times, at every oil change. After all that switch is there to save our limbs in a difficult situation


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post #5 of 54 (permalink) Old 01-05-2012, 01:35 PM
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Electrical contact cleaner spray works well too. Just be sure to protect the nearby areas as it can be hell on painted surfaces. A good shot from a can of compressed air afterwards is also a good idea, gets left-over residue out. Wear safety glasses too.

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post #6 of 54 (permalink) Old 01-05-2012, 04:36 PM Thread Starter
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Ill check out the kill switch and clean it up a bit. However, as I had mentioned, the bike just shut off for no apparant reason while I was riding. I had a full tank of gasoline as well. Since it turned off, that is when I reached the problem with pump not priming. I will check the switch though and put the grease on all my connectors. Ill get back here shortly.
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post #7 of 54 (permalink) Old 01-05-2012, 04:57 PM Thread Starter
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Ok well I looked at the cut off switch and the copper areas inside the switch do not look to be corroded at all. The switch toggles back and forth with no issues and it appears clean inside the casing as well. I didnt put any grease on the switch since the switch itself has plastic covering it inside of the casing. Any other ideas that you guys can think of?
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post #8 of 54 (permalink) Old 01-05-2012, 04:59 PM Thread Starter
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Sub its too bad I dont live in Sarasota anymore. I am in Pembroke Pines now which is over by Ft. Lauderdale. Otherwise I probably could have met up with you on this.
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post #9 of 54 (permalink) Old 01-05-2012, 07:18 PM Thread Starter
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Ok fellas this will be my last post tonight. let me know what you think I should do next. Ill check tommorrow.

I found out that my fuel pump is working just fine. I jumped the fuel tank connectors directly to the battery. I lookedat and cleaned the cut off switch, and again tested the BAS and Fuel cut off relay with the working hi beam relay. All looked good. I am still stumped and I want to actually ride this beast rather than just work on it. I hope one of you can come up with something that will be the problem tomorrow. Thanks fellas.
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post #10 of 54 (permalink) Old 01-05-2012, 10:43 PM
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On the surface, it sounds like you may have a broken wire somewhere.
Were you careful to not pinch the wire harness while raising and lowering the fuel tank?
This is often what happens if the harness gets pinched between the tank an frame.

The relays sound like they check out for operation as well as the engine stop switch.
So I suggest obtaining a decent digital volt-ohmmeter and the wiring diagram and start checking for broken wires in the fuel pump power path.
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