Before a suspension seller comes on here to differ, I should say I'm not an expert on suspension but do have some experience with car suspension setups for racing, etc. so some of this can be used to understand how suspension works and setup should be.
Your Ohlins damper will improve things, but geometry's possibly still set to conservative OEM levels. A steering damper is IMHO not needed at this or even more aggresive settings, although some will probably disagree. So steering damper is perhaps a matter best left to choice. Try taking it off...
You can quicken the steering by raising the rear and dropping front a little (The fork design on RC's is pretty good according to the suspension engineers who re-sprung & revalved my forks, in combination with making a matched race-spec rear shock set up for fast road use for it). Matching spring rates front & rear so the different components work in harmony is important for stability, especially at speed. Firmer springs will feel harder at slow speeds, but give better absorption when faster. Damping shouldn't be too high (common misconception that damping will harden the suspension, when primarily excessive damping makes the shock lazier & slower!).
To get the best out of your bike, have the suspension properly sorted by a company that specialises in making modifications for road racers. To this end, it's probably best to go somewhere like the UK where they have experience with preparation for Manx & IOM racing, where there are proper bumpy roads and lots of corners. They can apply this knowledge gained from experience with your less extreme riding needs and make suspension to match - you!
I've been very happy both times I've done this to bikes. It transformed a VFR into a very fun machine to ride fast and has made my SP2 more comfortable in ride, yet safer than OEM.
The only downside is more weight transfer to the front of my RC as my rear became quite a lot higher than before and the front dropped after the work they did, but I wouldn't go back to a standard rear shock & forks with Moriwaki link as I had before.
Euro RC51 SP2: HRC WSB Ti Hi-Level, T1 Airbox & Snorkel, PCIII, Dymag CA5 Carbon Wheels, Ti64 Spindles (F, R & Swing Arm), Mori Link, Maxton GP7 Shock & Ohlins 832 Forks, Brembo GP Calipers & SBK narrow track (F), Braketech Disc (R), Brembo billet Underslung x 2 Brembo RCS, Tyga Triple, 7075 Stem, Probolt Titanium all over, Babyface rearsets, MR Complete Carbon Lineup, Custom Undertail & CBR 1000 LED, Watsen LED Indicators, Harris Brace, Giles clip-ons, Corbin seat, etc. 2013 BOTY.
Last edited by The Stig; 02-09-2012 at 07:24 PM.