RC-51 SP-2 Caliper Rebuild - Honda RC51 Forum : RC51 Motorcycle Forums
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-05-2012, 10:42 AM Thread Starter
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RC-51 SP-2 Caliper Rebuild

It's that time of the year and I'm looking to do a caliper rebuild on a pair of RC-51 SP-2 calipers.

What components do I need/want and how many of each?? I figure I can get the latest part numbers between the Ron Ayers and Cheap Cycle Parts fiche sites.

-P.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-05-2012, 12:28 PM
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Items 1, 2, and 6.
Qty 4, for Items 1 and 2.
Qty 2, for Item 6.
(see quantity next to part number)
http://www.indyoem.com/fiche_section...2002&fveh=3621

Plus bottle of DOT4 or DOT5.1 brake fluid.
Do NOT use DOT5, which is silicone based.

Note that SP1 calipers use different size pistons and seals than SP2 calipers.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-05-2012, 01:32 PM Thread Starter
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Okay. Don't need new pistons or spring clips? I wasn't sure if quantity was for one caliper or two...

-P.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-05-2012, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Goshawk View Post
Okay. Don't need new pistons or spring clips? I wasn't sure if quantity was for one caliper or two...

-P.
The diagram shows parts needed for one caliper.
The parts list shows total quantity needed.

The exposed areas of your pistons may have road crud and possibly corrosion from years of use, but if the portion that slides inside the seal/bore area is fine with no scoring, then you should be able to clean up the exposed ends during the rebuild.
If the non-exposed piston areas and bores are scored too badly, then caliper replacement may be needed.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-16-2012, 04:44 PM
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Something I found in the process of my b-in-law redoing his 'hawk recently (and now since having a GL in the shop for Centramatic balancer install). "Honda" recommends replacing the mounting bolts whenever you remove a caliper or a rotor. This is because they are steel bolts going into an aluminum thread bore. They are all treated with dual metal lock-tite and traces of the compound can 'dirty' the threads. You can avoid replacement by meticulously cleaning the bolt threads and the reciever threads. This can sometimes involve the use of a tap and die to do the best job getting all the crud out. Most of you likely know this already, but it was news to me since I'd never done a rotor or caliper removal before. It's a matter of necessity right now since the stupid bolts are on back order from Mother H up here anyway.

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-16-2012, 08:03 PM
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Get a dremmel with small brass brushes (You may need a few as they don't last very long).
Useful for cleaning out the grooves where the seals go. Behind the seals there's often corrosion which would contribute to the calipers not working so well...

Probolt sells nice stainless caliper-body pinch bolts to replace the often corroded originals.

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-16-2012, 10:48 PM
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Good advice flowing here...keep us posted on the post rebuild results.



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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-21-2012, 04:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Stig View Post
Get a dremmel with small brass brushes (You may need a few as they don't last very long).
Useful for cleaning out the grooves where the seals go. Behind the seals there's often corrosion which would contribute to the calipers not working so well...

Probolt sells nice stainless caliper-body pinch bolts to replace the often corroded originals.
I know this is slightly old, but I thought I would mention something that isn't mentioned on the probolt site: their stainless bolts can only handle small amounts of torque. This is written on the bags. Obviously one would think an aluminum bolt can handle less torque, but a stainless one?

A friend of mine discovered this recently when he bought a bunch of stainless stuff while rebuilding his Superhawk. The bolts were very soft and stripped the heads immediately. Full disclosure here: he didn't read the bags and was trying to torque them to Honda specs (who reads the bag for directions to a bolt?). Probolt also did take care of him in the end. It just would have been nice to know before he bought the bolts. He (and I) weren't comfortable with torquing the rotor bolts to such a low number.

I have been ordering some titanium from them recently, and have no issues with it, but I won't be buying any stainless bolts from them.




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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-21-2012, 05:43 PM
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Yeah usually ProBolt sends a card with the order stating the torque specs for various size bolts for each material.
It's a good thing to heed the specs on that card.

I made a chart taken from that ProBolt card as a reference.

Last edited by SubSailor; 06-21-2012 at 05:46 PM.
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