Brak Bleeding (vacuum pump and drip method tried buttle still a little soft) - Honda RC51 Forum : RC51 Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-15-2012, 11:19 PM Thread Starter
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Brak Bleeding (vacuum pump and drip method tried buttle still a little soft)

Hi all, been working on bikes for a while so not a complete nube but more of a weekend warier than a professional mechanic. Anyways I did a complete fresh fluid change this past few days (coolant, oil and brake/clutch fluid) as it was time.

I used my trusty hand vacuum pump to draw all the fluid slowly and maintaining level in the reservoir out of the brake system as I always have done making sure that the fluid never gets below the low mark and not let any air in. I close the nipple when the pressure gets low and then pump with he nipple closed as to prevent air bubbles. I also take care not to loosen the nipples more than necessary (half turn) to draw the fluid out. I felt that the hydraulic pressure or pressure to engage the bakes seemed a bit weak/spongy not terrible just not as I feel it should be.

So I tried to use my sure fire method to get any air out that must of snuck in by using the drip method. I did this for about 30 to 40 minutes and about 6 oz of more fluid (essentially flushing the system again). Well it still feels the same.

I don't have a professional brake bleeding system (although the Mityvac is very good) and was wondering how you guys do it?

My clutch and rear brake came out just fine...... BTW

Nochain.....

2004 RC51 Nicky Hayden, PCMIII, Sato-Low Mount
1994 FZR600, KTMSXC625 Thumper, Honda Metro, 150cc Puma

Last edited by nochain; 04-15-2012 at 11:23 PM.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-16-2012, 12:44 AM
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You could bungee the brake lever to the bats for the night to get rid of any residual bubbles. If you pump the brake and it gets better then there's still air. If pumping gives the same lever travel there's no air in there... but this is pretty obvious I guess.

Did you clean your caliper pistons properly before pushing them back in?

Euro RC51 SP2: HRC WSB Ti Hi-Level, T1 Airbox & Snorkel, PCIII, Dymag CA5 Carbon Wheels, Ti64 Spindles (F, R & Swing Arm), Mori Link, Maxton GP7 Shock & Ohlins 832 Forks, Brembo GP Calipers & SBK narrow track (F), Braketech Disc (R), Brembo billet Underslung x 2 Brembo RCS, Tyga Triple, 7075 Stem, Probolt Titanium all over, Babyface rearsets, MR Complete Carbon Lineup, Custom Undertail & CBR 1000 LED, Watsen LED Indicators, Harris Brace, Giles clip-ons, Corbin seat, etc. 2013 BOTY.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-16-2012, 01:19 AM Thread Starter
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Never touched the caliper pistons or cylinders. Is that part of a typical fluid change?


Bike has 6K and I just wanted to flush the system as it looked a little yellow.

2004 RC51 Nicky Hayden, PCMIII, Sato-Low Mount
1994 FZR600, KTMSXC625 Thumper, Honda Metro, 150cc Puma
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-16-2012, 08:31 AM
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Did you bleed the master? It is a messy deal with the stock RC51 master, but I used to crack the lines open a hair just like a bleeder port. You can also order a banjo bolt with a bleeder port on it.

Or your master might be in need of a rebuild. You can also try a zip tie around the lever overnight.




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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-16-2012, 03:43 PM Thread Starter
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I will try the tye wrap over night I forgot about that I used it on my FZR and it actually worked like a champ!

2004 RC51 Nicky Hayden, PCMIII, Sato-Low Mount
1994 FZR600, KTMSXC625 Thumper, Honda Metro, 150cc Puma
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-16-2012, 09:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b.miller123 View Post
Did you bleed the master? It is a messy deal with the stock RC51 master, but I used to crack the lines open a hair just like a bleeder port. You can also order a banjo bolt with a bleeder port on it.

Or your master might be in need of a rebuild. You can also try a zip tie around the lever overnight.
Miller has the secret there. That's exactly how I got the last air out of my lines.

John, 2000 RC51 #000100

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 08:24 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys the tye wrap compressing the lever overnight did the trick AGAIN! I think that is now part of my "standard procedure".

Hard as a rock! (need to play that ACDC song now...

2004 RC51 Nicky Hayden, PCMIII, Sato-Low Mount
1994 FZR600, KTMSXC625 Thumper, Honda Metro, 150cc Puma
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 08:38 PM
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Euro RC51 SP2: HRC WSB Ti Hi-Level, T1 Airbox & Snorkel, PCIII, Dymag CA5 Carbon Wheels, Ti64 Spindles (F, R & Swing Arm), Mori Link, Maxton GP7 Shock & Ohlins 832 Forks, Brembo GP Calipers & SBK narrow track (F), Braketech Disc (R), Brembo billet Underslung x 2 Brembo RCS, Tyga Triple, 7075 Stem, Probolt Titanium all over, Babyface rearsets, MR Complete Carbon Lineup, Custom Undertail & CBR 1000 LED, Watsen LED Indicators, Harris Brace, Giles clip-ons, Corbin seat, etc. 2013 BOTY.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 09:37 PM Thread Starter
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LOL Stig I never took you for the romantic type

2004 RC51 Nicky Hayden, PCMIII, Sato-Low Mount
1994 FZR600, KTMSXC625 Thumper, Honda Metro, 150cc Puma
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 10:01 PM
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Well, even though she sounds a bit loud & is fairly podgy my RC's female so I'm romantic about her....
you wouldn't catch me riding a male bike!

Euro RC51 SP2: HRC WSB Ti Hi-Level, T1 Airbox & Snorkel, PCIII, Dymag CA5 Carbon Wheels, Ti64 Spindles (F, R & Swing Arm), Mori Link, Maxton GP7 Shock & Ohlins 832 Forks, Brembo GP Calipers & SBK narrow track (F), Braketech Disc (R), Brembo billet Underslung x 2 Brembo RCS, Tyga Triple, 7075 Stem, Probolt Titanium all over, Babyface rearsets, MR Complete Carbon Lineup, Custom Undertail & CBR 1000 LED, Watsen LED Indicators, Harris Brace, Giles clip-ons, Corbin seat, etc. 2013 BOTY.
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