Clutch Slip at High RPM roll on. - Honda RC51 Forum : RC51 Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-01-2014, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
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Clutch Slip at High RPM roll on.

I did some searching but still have to ask. I have restored a 2000 RC51 that was crashed and stored for over nine years.

Clutch lever engagement is good. New fluid and bled. Take offs from stops are fine but when I took it out for it's first extended freeway test ride I noticed when I hammered the throttle open to sample it's roll on performance it seems to slip under load and then catches and goes.

Should I continue to ride it conservatively and see if the clutch plates will improve or just replace them and be done with it.

Are EBC frictions good quality? My favorite tire supplier Jake Wilson stocks them at a fair price.

I see people have used Barnet kits on here. Honda genuine parts?

Bike is of unknown mileage as the instrument panel is a replacement. Previous owner bought it wrecked/easy fixer but doesn't know the miles.

At this point I plan on getting the frictions springs and gasket measure the plates and go from there. Any further suggestions greatly appreciated.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-01-2014, 11:37 AM
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You should probably take the clutch cover off, and inspect the springs, plates, friction discs, and pressure plate for spec measurements, blueing, heat checks and cracks. Sounds like a simple case of slippage.
maybe you already know, but you can lean the bike on it's side stand, and the oil won't leak out of the clutch when you remove the cover.
I replaced my original clutch with the Barnett Kevlar kit that has the plates, discs, and springs. Got at least 10,000 miles and zero problems. The kit only costs half or less of Honda OEM parts.




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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-02-2014, 01:42 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks JD. The side stand trick I hadn't thought of. Where's the best place to get the Barnett kit? Saw it on ebay for $140.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-02-2014, 03:29 AM
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What oil are you using?
I have seen similar problems with fully synthetic oil
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-02-2014, 08:49 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dansp1 View Post
What oil are you using?
I have seen similar problems with fully synthetic oil
Mobil 1 4T race 10 40. I have switched back to Honda GN4 on my VFR. Plan to do the same on the RC. Should I change it? I can save the Mobil 4T and use it in my dirtbikes. Would it be worth a try?
My feeling is if I go to the trouble of pulling the clutch apart I am putting a new kit in. So not opposed to dropping the synthetic and replacing it.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-02-2014, 09:00 AM
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I have always used semi syn, opting for cheaper oil changed more frequently, i am sure there must be others on here that use Mobil 1, anybody else suffering?
worth an oil change to see if it has an effect IMHO
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-02-2014, 09:55 AM
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My opinion is why spend money before you have to?
Money gets easily wasted by throwing parts at a problem.
It costs nothing to remove the parts and inspect. If the parts are within spec, and look healthy, then try an oil change if you want. But at around $60 to change oil and filter...

fwiw, I use mobil 1 4T all the time. It's my 2nd favorite oil, next to Honda HP4S. Never any slipping, smoothest shifting of the 4 or 5 brands I've tried now. btw, my bike hates 20w-50, I'd recommend staying away from it for our region.

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-02-2014, 09:24 PM
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My bike did the same thing when I got it. It sat for just over 2 years. Outside lol. I ended up changing the plates and steels out with OEM Honda clutch parts, and still had the issue. Then changed to Barnett springs, and that did the trick !
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-02-2014, 10:16 PM
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Always start with the least expensive cure first. But it sounds like just clutch springs, to me. I always tried to get the heavy duty ones, though I'm not sure if that would be available now for an RC51. You can always disassemble and measure the clutch springs and the fiber plates thickness. Also, you can check the steel plates for burning etc.. Take a look at the factory service manual, of course.
Oh yeah, if you put new clutch plates in, the fibres, soak em' in motor oil first.

Last edited by gt750; 11-02-2014 at 10:26 PM. Reason: added info.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-03-2014, 02:19 AM
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I used Mobil 1 on mt VFR 20 or so years ago and the clutch begun to slip. So I fitted upgraded springs. It's still going strong today.

Euro RC51 SP2: HRC WSB Ti Hi-Level, T1 Airbox & Snorkel, PCIII, Dymag CA5 Carbon Wheels, Ti64 Spindles (F, R & Swing Arm), Mori Link, Maxton GP7 Shock & Ohlins 832 Forks, Brembo GP Calipers & SBK narrow track (F), Braketech Disc (R), Brembo billet Underslung x 2 Brembo RCS, Tyga Triple, 7075 Stem, Probolt Titanium all over, Babyface rearsets, MR Complete Carbon Lineup, Custom Undertail & CBR 1000 LED, Watsen LED Indicators, Harris Brace, Giles clip-ons, Corbin seat, etc. 2013 BOTY.
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