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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-01-2012, 12:29 PM Thread Starter
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My RC upgrades

OK! So I picked up a 2000 RC51 last week that was pretty much still stock and have done the following upgrades so far:

1. Swingarm Spools (as soon as I got it home)
2. PCIII usb(yesterday)
3. Frame Sliders are coming in today.(I really dont want to cut into her, but I feel like it will pay off in the long run)

Near future upgrades:

1. Upper Fairing replacement
2. New clear Race windscreen(double bubble)
3. would like to find an 02 or newer swingarm.
4. Would like to switch out the top end and brains for an 02 or newer and drop some 11.1 / 1 pistons
5. Sato or Gilles Tooling rearsets(will probably end up getting the woodcrafts)
6. Racetech valves, fork springs and shock set up for my weight
7. Speigler duel front lines and rear line kit
8. -1/+2 520 Conversion.. Driven
9. I need to clean up some shitty wiring in the tail section from someones asshat install of a led taillight..
10. Possibly exchange my wheels for the lighter 02 wheels.

Does anyone see any reason why some of my swap ideas may not work. I beleive the items in question are interchangable if done correctly..??

Also.. I have installed many Cut style frame sliders on other bikes.. but Wondering if anyone has any tips on the best way to mark and cut for frame sliders on the RC????


Thanks!

I forgot to mention that it already had twin Carbon fibre Yosh Pipes

Last edited by soundislight; 06-01-2012 at 12:33 PM.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-01-2012, 12:56 PM
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I suggest against running frame sliders on the RC51 as they mount so low on the chassis that at speed they usually cause the bike to roll over damaging the tank, stay, screen & the other side of the bike too.

If you still want to do it then here are some instructions or you can use a laser pointer to mark the spot and reinstall the faring to see where to the laser points too

http://www.rc51.org/slider.htm

3. would like to find an 02 or newer swingarm.

Don't waste your time or money the new swingarm is not all it is cracked up to be and if you are in the correct weight range for using an aftermarket link then you actually get better results with the SP1 swingarm

http://www.rc51.org/link.htm

4. Would like to switch out the top end and brains for an 02 or newer and drop some 11.1 / 1 pistons

Again waste of money & reliability goes down the toilet once you start cracking open the cases on these bikes

6. Racetech valves, fork springs and shock set up for my weight

Get the Ohlins and be done with it. Revalving a stock shock would be like eating a steak with a condom on your tongue. It will still get you fed, but you get no real enjoyment out of it.

8. -1/+2 520 Conversion.. Driven

Use DID chain & AFAM forget about the Driven sprockets...

http://www.rc51.org/gearing.htm

10. Possibly exchange my wheels for the lighter 02 wheels.

Go big or go home... Get some Forged Mags or some BST carbons or just leave them alone as the difference from one OEM wheel to another is not enough to even feel the difference.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-01-2012, 01:18 PM
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Congrats on getting the SP1. LDH has got you covered with some of the most sound advice anywhere. He's been around these bikes since they came out.
I love the -1+2 520 chain/sprocket set. I've been running this combo for close to 2 years. I just bought that very combo to replace my DID & afam. The gearing is awesome for the way I ride around the city and the canyons. Much faster acceleration, and more appropriate for heavier traffic on the surface streets.
You'll also love stainless steel brake lines, Spiegler is one of the best, I would avoid Galfer lines. I have them, and they discolor quickly.
And lastly but probably most importantly: suspension, suspension, suspension (that's a quote from the esteemed Madbuyer ). I would put my first available upgrade money into forks and rear shock/link.

John, 2000 RC51 #000100

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-01-2012, 02:21 PM
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What LDH said. Although I really I have no clue what he's on about.

2000 RC51 SP1
2007 Yamaha YZ450f
2002 Yamaha YZ125 (sold)
2007 Triumph Speed Triple (sold)
2004 Triumph Speed Triple (sold)
2001 Suzuki GSX-R 1000 (sold)
1996 Honda RVF NC35 (sold)
1983 Kawasaki KX60 (wrecked)
1982 BSA Scrambler (wrecked)
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-01-2012, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by LDH® View Post
I suggest against running frame sliders on the RC51 as they mount so low on the chassis that at speed they usually cause the bike to roll over damaging the tank, stay, screen & the other side of the bike too.
The ones I bought from Dan (about 10yrs ago) stick out less than an inch. Every other slider I've seen on the Rc's stick out way more which could cause the problem you're talking about.

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-02-2012, 09:03 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by LDH® View Post
I suggest against running frame sliders on the RC51 as they mount so low on the chassis that at speed they usually cause the bike to roll over damaging the tank, stay, screen & the other side of the bike too.

If you still want to do it then here are some instructions or you can use a laser pointer to mark the spot and reinstall the faring to see where to the laser points too
Frame sliders have saved my ass many times, so I have to do it. Plus its already done.
http://www.rc51.org/slider.htm

3. would like to find an 02 or newer swingarm.

Don't waste your time or money the new swingarm is not all it is cracked up to be and if you are in the correct weight range for using an aftermarket link then you actually get better results with the SP1 swingarm

Ok.. Gotcha on that. I found a nice Kyle Link that is suppose to be real smooth, I may try it.

http://www.rc51.org/link.htm

4. Would like to switch out the top end and brains for an 02 or newer and drop some 11.1 / 1 pistons

Again waste of money & reliability goes down the toilet once you start cracking open the cases on these bikes

I will take this into consideration for sure.. Thanks

6. Racetech valves, fork springs and shock set up for my weight

Get the Ohlins and be done with it. Revalving a stock shock would be like eating a steak with a condom on your tongue. It will still get you fed, but you get no real enjoyment out of it.

I see your point but am on a budget and Cannot dump that much cash into my suspension at this time. But I can afew nice suspension internals that will assist my stock suspension n handling my weight. Plus I have access to a very talented suspension guy.. He actually just set up my RC lastnight using just the stock stuff and as usual has left a supernice result.
ff
8. -1/+2 520 Conversion.. Driven

Use DID chain & AFAM forget about the Driven sprockets...

I agree with this too.. But the only DID & AFAM 520 kits I have found are twice the cost of the driven, or vortex, or any other for that matter.

http://www.rc51.org/gearing.htm

[o]10. Possibly exchange my wheels for the lighter 02 wheels.[/B]

Go big or go home... Get some Forged Mags or some BST carbons or just leave them alone as the difference from one OEM wheel to another is not enough to even feel the difference.
once again.. im on a tight budget at the moment and cant afford to drop 2000 bucks on wheels. But I could use the 1.5 pound lighter 02 wheels.. Cant hurt anything.


In the end what I am trying to do is get the best performing bike for the least amount of money.. But I dont like cutting corners on safety. Myself and the group I ride with here in the midwest is always about safety gear and being a resposible rider.

Thanks for the post up
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-02-2012, 09:06 AM Thread Starter
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The ones I bought from Dan (about 10yrs ago) stick out less than an inch. Every other slider I've seen on the Rc's stick out way more which could cause the problem you're talking about.

Did you get your Carbon Fiber from OPP Racing??
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-02-2012, 09:52 AM
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once again.. im on a tight budget at the moment and cant afford to drop 2000 bucks on wheels. But I could use the 1.5 pound lighter 02 wheels.. Cant hurt anything.


In the end what I am trying to do is get the best performing bike for the least amount of money.. But I dont like cutting corners on safety. Myself and the group I ride with here in the midwest is always about safety gear and being a resposible rider.

Thanks for the post up

You will never feel a 1.5 lb difference in the wheels. Additionally it's not really about the weight as much as where the weight is located. You can have 2 sets of wheels they weigh the same, but if one set as the weight centered towards the hub while the other set has the weight more towards the rim then you get more gyroscopic precession with the the latter.

You talk about being on a budget and that your priority is safety so the smart thing to do is take the money you would waste on wheels and put it towards your suspension. What you are really purchasing with aftermarket suspension is a greater margin of error and a larger margin of safety. You get to ride faster with less drama because the suspension is doing what it is supposed to do underneath you which gives you more time to concentrate on body position, throttle management and hitting the correct lines instead of worrying about what the bike is going to do when it hits that next pothole or those ripples in the braking zone of Turn 5.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-02-2012, 10:05 AM
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Did you get your Carbon Fiber from OPP Racing??
QB Carbon out of the UK.

http://www.worldofqbcarbon.com/store/
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-02-2012, 06:59 PM Thread Starter
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You will never feel a 1.5 lb difference in the wheels. Additionally it's not really about the weight as much as where the weight is located. You can have 2 sets of wheels they weigh the same, but if one set as the weight centered towards the hub while the other set has the weight more towards the rim then you get more gyroscopic precession with the the latter.

You talk about being on a budget and that your priority is safety so the smart thing to do is take the money you would waste on wheels and put it towards your suspension. What you are really purchasing with aftermarket suspension is a greater margin of error and a larger margin of safety. You get to ride faster with less drama because the suspension is doing what it is supposed to do underneath you which gives you more time to concentrate on body position, throttle management and hitting the correct lines instead of worrying about what the bike is going to do when it hits that next pothole or those ripples in the braking zone of Turn 5.
You are absolutely right about that.. Have you ever tried Racetech internals? From My experience they are very nice components.. I am sure they arent going to match up to a complete ohlins set up.. I know I need some fresh springs on my ride.. my front preload is completely topped out.. Its good for now.. and feels real solid and planted through the turns. Also my plan is suspension first.. then followed up by some of the other items.. thanks for your input.
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