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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-02-2013, 09:33 PM Thread Starter
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Cool Cams need help

Heys guys how's it going . I'm trying to put the intake cam back on rear cilinder and it wont go back with the line completely flush with the block as I pulled it . Are these cams spring loaded ? Wsm says nothing about cam gears moving when being pulled. Does it need to be perfect putting it back or just as long as. Marks are close to the block ?
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-02-2013, 10:31 PM Thread Starter
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Any one ?? Bueller bueller. Bueller bueller. ? I have 7 views no replys
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-03-2013, 12:12 AM Thread Starter
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I figured it out. Cams need to be completely tight . Got the rear head done .
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-03-2013, 07:10 AM
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glad that you figured it out.. were you replacing the head, or doing a valve adjustment?

on a bike, you ain't ever legal..
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-03-2013, 08:36 AM Thread Starter
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Valve ajustment. It was easey. They all turned out perfect . They charge over 600 at Honda dealer . Hell I start doing them for half of that lol
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-03-2013, 12:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Radrc51 View Post
Heys guys how's it going . I'm trying to put the intake cam back on rear cilinder and it wont go back with the line completely flush with the block as I pulled it . Are these cams spring loaded ? Wsm says nothing about cam gears moving when being pulled. Does it need to be perfect putting it back or just as long as. Marks are close to the block ?
Sorry, work gets in the way of play...often.

The OEM cams do have spring loaded quieting gears (the Navy called them split gears).
When trying to install the cams they will not fully seat due to the spring tension on the quieting gears.

Usually, if you get them very close, they will show aligned once the journal caps are installed and snugged.
The front cams are especially difficult to eyeball with the radiators in place.
I usually get them as aligned as I can tell, then install the journal caps and lightly snug them in place (not torqued) to check alignment.

If all looks good, then I torque to spec in a criss-cross manner for each cam.

As an FYI, the lower-most gear on the cam drivetrain driven by the crankshaft, also uses a quieting gear.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-03-2013, 04:04 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks sub sailor !! Yeah I'm doing the front head tonight . I just mark a tooth and the block that way I can see if it lines up . You still in the navy ? I really wanted to be a marine.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-03-2013, 04:46 PM
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The cams already have alignment marks on them that align flush outward with the valve cover mounting area.

My suggestion is to do the front cams first by aligning the FT timing mark and ensure the cams are properly aligned and the lobs are pointing outward.

Then rotate the crankshaft 270 degs. CCW and align the RT timing mark, check the rear cams alignment mark with lobes pointing inward, and then do the rear cams clearance check/adjust.

Been out of the Navy for quite a number of years.
Still a part of me in many ways though.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-04-2013, 01:36 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah I just mark them extra so I can see it better . I did the rear head last night and did the front tonight . Just have put the air box filters and lower the tank down . I dident have to pull it all the way off . Just used a adjustable rod to prop it up . We wil see how it runs tomarrow . It's should be a lot better considering few were out of spec
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