Can the crankcase have welds?? - Honda RC51 Forum : RC51 Motorcycle Forums
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-21-2011, 06:00 PM Thread Starter
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Can the crankcase have welds??

First thank you for taking the time to read this. I'll make it as brief and direct as possible
I went down and the shifter took a hit. The shifter was not returning, I took the clutch cover off to inspect the return sping on the shifter rod. where the return-spring-hold-down-screw goes into the crankcase, that threaded sleeve is broke in half. half as in 'C' shaped with half the threaded sleeve still attached. Would JB weld be stong enough to hold that screw with constant stress from the shifter? Or should I try to get someone to get in there with a welder. my only other option is an ebay motor for $900. cause tearing it down to replace the crankcase is over my head. thanks for your input
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-21-2011, 06:26 PM
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i would not trust jb weld in there....i would try to have it welded back together if you have the other piece.

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-22-2011, 11:33 AM
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Yeap, a welder that knows what he is doing with the aluminum alloy and by choosing the right alloy filler will do it. He would probably weld much more material all around the weld and base, then drill and retap. Ideally he should make a jig it all goes in right and monitor not to overheat the area around it. It'll be stronger than new.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-22-2011, 02:59 PM
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There was a fellow who bought an RC51 where the previous owner neglected to tell him the chain had been thrown, breaking the sprocket cover bolt holes in the case.
The fellow was a machinist, and was able to weld and mill the broken areas to reconstruct the mount holes.

Of course the engine was removed and disassembled for this.
So it is possible, but to have someone do this may not be economically feasible.
It may be cheaper to swap out the engine with another.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-22-2011, 04:46 PM
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i agree, you should maybe get a quote for the work and see how they plan on doing the procedure.

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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-23-2011, 03:24 AM
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Moral of the story: We need to find a way to protect this sensitive area.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-25-2011, 11:11 PM Thread Starter
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I got it welded today. I disassembled the clutch and oil pump drive sprockets and slid the shifter rod out. There were about 3 threads left on the case so he was able to tighten a bolt against the broken half of the sleeve to hold it in place as he welded it. Went perfect, I was pumped and spent all day putting it back togeather. But the damn clutch isnt engaging. I took the cover off and the pushrod is pushing against the outter clutch and springing back when I pull the lever in and out. But w engine off and in gear I pull in the lever and theres no way of moving the rear tire. I called it a day and ill mess w it more tomorrow. I know I put the clutch disks in the same order they came out, not in the exact slot, they got turned out of position but not out of order. I put the last disk's tabs in the baskets shallow slots like the book says. The spring bolts are torqued to spec... I did have problems getting pressure in the lever last week before I found out about the shifter return bolt. So I took the whole hydralic system off my sp1 and put it on my sp2. I have pressure and it is activating the push rod. the sp2 doesnt have more pushrod travel then the sp1 does it? And maybe my problem now is the sp1 clutch master cylinder and/or slave cylinder just isnt pushing the clutch far enough. Sounds far fetched.

Last edited by rvtsp1&2; 04-25-2011 at 11:34 PM.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-26-2011, 11:38 AM
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The pressure and rod disengage the clutch, not engage it. The springs engage the plates. Hydraulic pressure (or cable on manual clutches) pushes against the springs to disengage. So you must have assembled something wrong in the basket. It doesn't take much, a washer here and there inside or outside.
The actuating mechanism would make sense if the bike wouldn't disengage.
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