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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-25-2011, 08:46 AM Thread Starter
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increased coolant temps

Hello to all rc51 brotherin;
I am new to the website and a owner of a sp2. Just installed a Power commander usb III on the bike NOW IT IS RUNNING HOT! got up to 227 and then stayed around 218-225, I downloaded the map for the mods i have on the bike and i saw engine ice reviews and may try that, anyone know if the bike is running to lean causing the spike in temps? should I try a different map setting? the mods I have are k&n filters and yoshimura slip on cans, flapper mod and pair system removed-before the PC install bike was running 190-208 help!!!!!!!!
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-25-2011, 09:26 AM
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I would guess cooling system issues over fuel map.
A too lean fuel map would manifest itself as loss of power or misfiring if excessively lean. You would know if that occurs.

An excessive lean condition would cause localized higher plug and piston crown temps to occur, but I believe you'd damage those before the cooling system would elevate excessively.
The heat would be distributed over the entire area covered by the coolant.
Even the old 2-stroke race bikes would melt a hole the piston without affecting the cooling system.

Does 227 deg F temp occur while in traffic or on the freeway?
My bike in traffic can reach 218 (where the fans start) to 221.
The fans cool it down to 205-208 while they're running
Once traffic picks or I'm on the freeway, it cools down more due to more airflow through the radiators.

However, 227 (while within the operating range) is towards the upper-middle portion.
The critical temp is 251 deg F where the temp indicator starts blinking.
If that occurs, you need to quickly find a place to pull over and stop the engine to allow it to cool. Otherwise damage may occur.

I'd check your cooling system for leaks from hoses or pin-hole leaks in the radiators.
Especially if you find you need to frequently add coolant.
Plus, coolant needs to be replaced every two years as it loses its effectiveness over time.
Also, if your thermostat is original, it may be beginning to fail and not open fully.
Check the easy stuff first.

Last edited by SubSailor; 08-25-2011 at 09:34 AM.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-25-2011, 11:35 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks fo the good info. The bike runs hot while moving skow or at a stop, it runs a lil cooler while moving I will change the coolant this weekend that could be some of the issue, no leaks everything solid
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-25-2011, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by darman View Post
Thanks fo the good info. The bike runs hot while moving skow or at a stop, it runs a lil cooler while moving I will change the coolant this weekend that could be some of the issue, no leaks everything solid
Before replacing your coolant, check that your fan bearings are in good shape, by manually spinning each fan.
The blades should not rub against the radiator fins and should easily and
freely spin.

If they make a squeaking sound or are hard to spin, or don't spin at all, then the fan motor bearings are bad or soon will be.
Then you'll need to replace the fan motor(s).

You'll need to remove the radiators to do this, so check this before you drain your coolant as you'll probably have to order the replacement fan motor(s), which are the same part number.

Then swap the fan blades over to the new motor and reinstall.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-26-2011, 07:57 AM Thread Starter
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All is good with the fans working perfect no issues, i am going to replace the coolant and if the temps do not come down i will then uninstall my pc 3 to the stock set up and see how it runs this should tell me if it is coolant issues or the pc 3
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-26-2011, 07:59 AM Thread Starter
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I lived in Clear Water and Tampa for 2 yrs, miss the nice winter Florida weather, Germany is cold more than it is warm thanks for all your great info
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-01-2011, 11:31 AM
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Not sure where you live, but if it's about 90 degrees F out, then your bike will run hot. Even more so at lower speeds. The map may have effected this too. You really should get it tuned by a shop. In the meantime, try and find a map that works for you.

If you are like me and live where it's hot as hell 9 months out of the year, do the spal fan mod. There is no way I would waste a cent on a set of stock fans. This changes them pusher fans that aren't trying to work against the natural flow of air through the radiators. The spal fans also push way more air than the stock ones.

Another thing that you can do is to install a manual fan switch.



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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-03-2011, 12:38 AM Thread Starter
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This sounds like what i need to do, is this a aftermarket fan that replaces my oem or is this a mod to the current fans i have? very interested in this mod! can you give me more info on this? I thought of putting a relay with a switch to turn on fans when it starts running hot.
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-03-2011, 09:34 AM
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You can start to read about it here at post 26: http://www.speedzilla.com/forums/rc5...vorit-mod.html

There is also more information here:
http://www.speedzilla.com/forums/rc5...-fans-sp2.html

Yes, it's an aftermarket fan that replaces the stock one. Spal has been around for a while now, all their fans are made in Italy, and they are quite the bargain at $35 on eBay. I don't even want to think about what Honda will charge you for the garbage stock fans.

Basically you'll have to pull the radiators, make some brackets and take the wires and plug off the old fans (unless you want to source new connectors and put those on the new fan). Install them and fill the rads back up and away you go. I only run one fan right now (pulled off the right stock fan) and it works pretty damn well. I will be installing the other side soon, but just to make the bike cool down even faster. Trust me, at a dead stop the one fan will drop temps much faster than stock, but two will make it even faster.

You want to get the fan (or fans) off eBay. Search for "spal 5.5" the seller is proair llc or something like that. His info is in those threads. You want the one with the grate, without it you will grind rocks into your radiators. One speedzilla member found out the hard way about that. Fwiw, my stock fan did it already to my right rad. The trade off is that the other one without the grate has the correct connectors on it. That's why people buy that one.



For the manual switch, all you have to do is locate the fan relay in the tail, and splice a wire into where it takes a ground signal to cycle the relay, run that wire up to a switch in the cockpit area. Run a wire from the other side of the switch to a good ground and you are good to go. Due to the many different types of switches, I won't go into that too much unless you need help. You only need a single pole single throw switch. You can google or Wikipedia SPST, or DPDT etc. for more info.




Last edited by b.miller123; 09-03-2011 at 09:38 AM.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-06-2011, 04:13 AM Thread Starter
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Talking

Wow you guys on this forum are AWESOME really, I have never had so much great information given to me. I will be getting my spal fans soon and look to replace the stockers this sounds like a good project for the winter months
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