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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-16-2011, 11:19 AM Thread Starter
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Valve adjustment

Who can give me a nice easy clear explanation of a valve adjustment;

How its done
Why it must be done
The cost of doing this via bike shop
Consequences of not adjusting them

My bike has 44k miles and it hasnt been done
-Thanks

Last edited by Ram51; 12-16-2011 at 12:43 PM.
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-16-2011, 12:28 PM
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And which adjustment are you referring to?
There's a few on this bike.
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-16-2011, 12:44 PM
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Adjustment of what? Valves?

I will admit, my bike has 24,000 on it and I have not checked my valve clearances yet either. I will definatly tackle this after Christmas. I've read a few reports of people whose valves needed no adjustment, or very minimal, at the first 16K mile checkpoint. My bike has been running so well, I wasn't to worried about it.

With 44K, I would be doing it asap. btw, a shop will charge upwards of $400. I think the Honda service writer told me the book calls for a minimum of 5 hrs. labor. Maybe more if valves need shimming. Not positive on that, going of memory from about 9 months ago.

If you don't already have a shop manual, here's a free download that a lot of us use.
It take's a few minutes to download, it's a big file. Use this one:

ĽUS VERSION RC51 Factory Service Manual SP-1 and SP-2 108.2 Mb
http://www.rc51.info/index.php?page=service

John, 2000 RC51 #000100

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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-16-2011, 12:44 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by SubSailor View Post
And which adjustment are you referring to?
There's a few on this bike.
Sorry, I thought I specified.
Fixed my error.

Valve Adjustments
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-16-2011, 12:49 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jondog9 View Post
Adjustment of what? Valves?

I will admit, my bike has 24,000 on it and I have not checked my valve clearances yet either. I will definatly tackle this after Christmas. I've read a few reports of people whose valves needed no adjustment, or very minimal, at the first 16K mile checkpoint. My bike has been running so well, I wasn't to worried about it.

With 44K, I would be doing it asap. btw, a shop will charge upwards of $400. I think the Honda service writer told me the book calls for a minimum of 5 hrs. labor. Maybe more if valves need shimming. Not positive on that, going of memory from about 9 months ago.

If you don't already have a shop manual, here's a free download that a lot of us use.
It take's a few minutes to download, it's a big file. Use this one:

ĽUS VERSION RC51 Factory Service Manual SP-1 and SP-2 108.2 Mb
http://www.rc51.info/index.php?page=service
Dam...
My brother gave me his 2002 Rc51 after putting 44k miles on it
and now I gotta fix it up to make it run perfectly well again.


Im going to take it to the shop today to get a 50k mile diagnostics
and also figure out why my bike wont start.

All I've changed since I got the bike was;
air filters, spark plugs, oil/filter, fork seals, tires, wheel bearings, brakes/fluids.
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-16-2011, 01:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ram51 View Post
Dam...
My brother gave me his 2002 Rc51 after putting 44k miles on it
and now I gotta fix it up to make it run perfectly well again.


Im going to take it to the shop today to get a 50k mile diagnostics
and also figure out why my bike wont start.

All I've changed since I got the bike was;
air filters, spark plugs, oil/filter, fork seals, tires, wheel bearings, brakes/fluids.
"Dam..." is right! gave? As in free? 'Tis the season! Welcome, and what a nice bike to have given from an obviously cool brother.
I think you are going a good route, having trained techs examine a bike that's new to you. As long as your shop is a reputable one, that is.
Btw, good job on all the stuff you've already changed. I see about $500-600 there plus all the labor. Obviously you're serious about one of the finest superbikes on the road. Good Luck!

John, 2000 RC51 #000100

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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-16-2011, 01:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ram51 View Post
Who can give me a nice easy clear explanation of a valve adjustment;

How its done
Why it must be done
The cost of doing this via bike shop
Consequences of not adjusting them

My bike has 44k miles and it hasnt been done
-Thanks
Valve clearances can change over time due to valve seat wear, metal creep, etc.
Valve clearances can get tight or loose depending on the circumstances.
The effect of incorrect valve tolerances can vary depending on the amount.
Minimally, changing valve clearances can alter intake or exhaust timing and duration slightly.
To a greater degree, too tight a clearance can prevent proper valve seating and loss of compression, and possible burnt exhaust valves due to to combustion gases passing past the valve head during ignition phase.
Too loose a clearance and damage to the cam lobe and bucket can result.

The valves are actuated by an overhead cam actuating a bucket tappet.
A shim is placed between the valve stem and the underside of the bucket to adjust clearance.
A measurement is made of the clearance between the cam lobe heel and the bucket face with the cam at it's specified alignment mark.
Each shim has a marking indicating it's thickness in millimeters.
A calculation is done to determine the next thinner or thicker shim required to correct the difference.

To replace the shims, the engine is rotated to a cylinders timing marks with both cams lobs up and cams timing marks level with the cylinder head.
The cam mount caps are removed, the cams removed and the shims swapped.
The the cams installed aligned with timing marks, then the cam mount caps installed and torqued.
The clearances are rechecked and if ok, proceed to the next cylinder.

All this is done according to the service manual procedures.
One very important thing to note is, the cam mount caps have arrows and mark indicating exhaust or intake cam, and both point to the intake side of the engine. Do not mix the caps or journal damage will result.

It's also best to start with the front cylinder since it's only a 270 degree (3/4 turn) rotation to the rear cylinder.

The cost can vary depending on which shop does the work.
I do my own, so time and labor don't count.

The valves should be checked every 16,000 miles.
Often they don't need re-shimming, but at 44,000 miles I suggest you do check the clearances.
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-16-2011, 09:45 PM
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Im at 16,1xx on the odo, im going to check mine just because the book says so, while the skins and tank are at the paint shop.

Sub,
I always love reading your "how to" posts, always more info then whats needed to do the job.
Between you and some of the other members makes this forum one of the best assets to have.
Thanks again
James
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-16-2011, 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by James_03_rc View Post
Im at 16,1xx on the odo, im going to check mine just because the book says so, while the skins and tank are at the paint shop.

Sub,
I always love reading your "how to" posts, always more info then whats needed to do the job.
Between you and some of the other members makes this forum one of the best assets to have.
Thanks again
James
Isn't that the truth. I have a folder in my Favorites that I link to those kinds of posts from SubSailor. Hats off to our best Moderator who really knows his sH$t about these RC51's

John, 2000 RC51 #000100

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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-16-2011, 10:08 PM
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So Sub, When a valve is not being actuated by the cam lobe the cam and bucket do not contact, there is a gap between the cam and the bucket and that is the clearance in question? I am used to automotive engines that use hydraulic adjusters.
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