My Bike runs HOT. . . Why??? - Honda RC51 Forum : RC51 Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-30-2012, 08:40 PM Thread Starter
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My Bike runs HOT. . . Why???

What's the best to run in the radiator to keep the bike cooler? (my bike doesnt overheat, but im afraid in the summer it will)

Does that engine ice stuff work good? I need something, bcuz the weather gets up to 100 degree's in the summer. . .

SUGGESTIONS PLEASE. . . . rcAnthong, or Jondog. . . . anybody really, but hey are local. . .lol. . .
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-30-2012, 08:41 PM Thread Starter
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What's the best to run in the radiator to keep the bike cooler? (my bike doesnt overheat, but im afraid in the summer it will)

Does that engine ice stuff work good? I need something, bcuz the weather gets up to 100 degree's in the summer. . .

SUGGESTIONS PLEASE. . . . rcAnthong, or Jondog. . . . anybody really, but hey are local. . .lol. . .
rcAnthony. . . my bad i mis-typed that in my previous post. . .
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-30-2012, 08:42 PM
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Engine Ice works.....All RC engines run warm.



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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-30-2012, 08:52 PM Thread Starter
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Engine Ice works.....All RC engines run warm.
is it not smart to ride in warm weather or what? this my second RC, and I dont recall my first one (that i dont have anymore) running super warm. . . It's like 65 degrees out and my bike hit 218 degrees, THATS FREAKIN HOT. . . imagine if it was 90 degrees outside (SMH) not good. . . or will engine ice do the trick?
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-30-2012, 09:14 PM
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No, 218 isn't really all that hot. The later model R1 yamaha engine operating temperature is 225..
When the RC51 temperature climbs to that -then be finding a pull off..
Engine Ice would help..
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-30-2012, 11:10 PM
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Mine runs hot but has a ceiling. It got up to 216 the other night for the first time this winter and it was prob. 5ish* out. I was riding her somewhat hard and then entered into city traffic. I found that the addition of the 100*+ summer here only accelerates the rate at which she climbs to that temp but she is able to shake it off and keep it steady in the mid 2teens. I also avoid sitting at long lights/stop&go. This spring I plan on preventative measures and will probably add Water Wetter and an additional fan and lower thermo switch...mainly because I plan to really hit the canyons hard this spring.

Maintain her and ride smart and you should be fine.

2001 #62. Ohlins rear/valves, Micron high mount, HyperPro damper, SharkSkinz, Tyga billet triple clamp, Tyga Carbon Fiber fender and hugger, Ti bolt/custom subframe/alien motion 8 cell diet, 15/41 520, COP conv. PCIII, Venhill lines, modified air box, turn signals in headlights...<deep breath> ZG Touring windscreen, Tech G rear sets, CRF450 rear master w/HRC cover, Tokico 6 pots w/V-pads, CRG Bar end mirrors, PSR Shorty levers-use only clutch, wanna-be basic racer paint, Roman Gold PC wheels
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-30-2012, 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Dee Money 916 View Post
is it not smart to ride in warm weather or what? this my second RC, and I dont recall my first one (that i dont have anymore) running super warm. . . It's like 65 degrees out and my bike hit 218 degrees, THATS FREAKIN HOT. . . imagine if it was 90 degrees outside (SMH) not good. . . or will engine ice do the trick?


I've been riding all around lately in this killer weather too. That sounds just a little hot. If your rads are in good shape, hoses all clean and clear, radiator cap check, you should only be running around 180-190 in town, mine cools to 174 on the fwy for now. In summer when it's around 100, when I do ride which isn't a terrible lot, I've seen 224 max, usually aorund 200 - 220. That was average for about 8K miles this year. Engine Ice - Best stuff I've tried yet for street-only.

John, 2000 RC51 #000100


Last edited by jondog9; 01-30-2012 at 11:26 PM.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-30-2012, 11:30 PM Thread Starter
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I've been riding all around lately in this killer weather too. That sounds just a little hot. If your rads are in good shape, hoses all clean and clear, radiator cap check, you should only be running around 180-190 in town, mine cools to 174 on the fwy for now. In summer when it's around 100, when I do ride which isn't a terrible lot, I've seen 224 max, usually aorund 200 - 220. That was average for about 8K miles this year. Engine Ice - Best stuff for the street-only I've tried yet.
I know thats what I think too. . . it hit 218, after riding for about 20 minutes of street traffic, but still. . . to me (especially with how cool the weather has been) 218 is VERY HIGH. . .

Is flushing the radiators a difficult task on the RC? I never really got into physically doing my own repairs on the RC's. . . I have on other bikes, but not the RC (w/ the two radiators) I would like to slap some engine ice in there this weekend, but kinda of reluctant bcuz I dont want to mess shyt up, LOL!!!!
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-30-2012, 11:40 PM
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Toooo funny, that's the second time today I was asked that. I'm being lazy - here's a cutnpaste..

Saw your thread about draining the coolant during a search on the board ( https://www.rc51forums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5219 ) and had a couple of questions if you don't mind (I have the service manual & read through chapter 6 already):

1 - How many times did you have to drain/refill/flush to get the distilled water in there to drain out looking "clear?"

Or, was it not possible until you removed each radiator and flushed them out?

2 - Was it a pain to "burp" the cooling system of air after refilling with new coolant? One or two attempts or several?

3 - I wasn't clear on this after reading chapter 6, but after burping the air out and letting everything cool off again, do you top off coolant at the radiator itself are you supposed to top off at the recovery tank instead?


Got a couple bottles of Pro Honda HP coolant in the garage, but might wind up splurging for Engine Ice - decisions, decisions...LOL


1. twice, I think I use 4 gallons of disstilled water.
I wanted to remove every bit of water from the system after. You have to remove the rads to do that. So I removed both rads, removed the fan, (SP1 has only 1), and cleared all the hoses too.

2. The burping went exactly as it said in the manual. Not a hassle at all. Start the bike, have the cap off, watch your temp closely as she warms up. Once she hits 174-180 the thermostat should be full open and you'll have full circulation of your coolant. You can see the coolant actually start to flow pretty fast. That's how you know your thermo is open. That's all good. Within a a minute or so, you'll see airbubbles burp up. It's like waiting for popcorn to finish cooking. When there's no more burping, it's done.

3. When the bike is completely cool, the overflow level should right at the mark on the bottle, bike standing up. If it's to full, it'll overflow and drip out the hose. And splash all over. How do I know?

Have a fresh rad cap, or pressure test yours. Take your overflow bottle off and clean it out real good. inspect , clean, all the hose connections. Make sure the smaller hoses flow freely. If you do all that, your flush should go problem free.
Engine Ice. Good luck bro!
John

John, 2000 RC51 #000100

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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 01-31-2012, 07:07 AM
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Jondog- I have read most all the info , compiled on this topic.. Here in the eastern mountains, we don't have the temps, ya'll experience.
How much of a difference- removing the one fan, make?
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