Stage 1,2,3, and 4 - Honda RC51 Forum : RC51 Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-03-2017, 07:29 AM Thread Starter
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Stage 1,2,3, and 4

Can someone chime in with the differences in stages, what would need to be done to an RC to reach that stage, and for all intents purpose, the highest stage that would be realistic for a street/track bike where parts are obtainable and not requiring specialized fuel to run properly?

Thanks for the help.

2002 Baconator SP2 with things and shit
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-03-2017, 07:57 AM
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VP U 4.4 will get you a quick 5 rwhp and can easily be reversed...the best buy you can make outside exhaust and powercommander.

WATCH OUT for using adjustable cam gears that can slip and ruin your motor-or be improperly installed and also ruin your motor...been there twice now!

I suggest lightening up the rotating mass as much as possible...that's what I did anyway.

Again, fuel is easily reversible..........50/50 with 93 octane got me 5 rwhp, so don't be afraid of fuel....I had a switch installed on my handle bars to change between my PC maps between my mix and straight 93 maps depending what I was running at the time.

I am actually on my way to MS to pick up 20 gallons of U 4.4 right now-you should have no problems getting it out west..Don't use U 4...Use U 4.4-doesn't gum up internals like the old U 4-4.2.

Although I don't care for his products or workmanship anymore, you can see revolution racing's website where Roger defines what is involved at each stage.

Last edited by rccbrz; 11-03-2017 at 08:00 AM. Reason: sp
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-03-2017, 09:38 AM
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There aren't any defined "stages" for anything. It's something that tuner car kids like to blab on about in parking lots and I'm fairly sure it all started with arcade games.

If you want to build your rc51 engine to make more power, go buy a 1098.
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-03-2017, 12:52 PM
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Actually, Roger has defined stages
1-stock cams, new pistons, exhaust PC etc
2 porting, mild cams, stock retainers/springs and all stage 1
3 more extensive cams, Ti retainers and springs, Ti valves with flat faces=more Comp., more port work all stage 1-2 I think he states his stage 3 is only for those that have deep pockets and can keep up with the maintenance schedule.
A set of HC pistons and maybe a 2mm overbore will give you what you want...you can get away with stock rods as they are stout but heavy. A good engine will set you back 10g's...GL finding someone that can build it for you PROPERLY!!!

How fast you want to go=how much money you got?
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-03-2017, 01:54 PM
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So that's one guy who says that.

That doesn't make it Gospel, or universally agreed upon.


Still cheaper to buy a 1098 lol.
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-03-2017, 02:30 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks RCCBRZ, great info buddy. I appreciate the info. I?ll need to look into it a little more later down the line after a wealth of track days.

2002 Baconator SP2 with things and shit
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-03-2017, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Wibbly View Post
So that's one guy who says that.

That doesn't make it Gospel, or universally agreed upon.


Still cheaper to buy a 1098 lol.
The guy just asked a freking question..nobody said that is WAS gospel..lighten up dude.


1-mild
2 mod
3 wild
4 race only


Just a progression from 0 dollars to mucho...ask me how I know

MAYBE he doesn't have a duc dealer in town or diesn't WANT a duc...he's asking what he can do to his bike...If you have to be shitty just keep it to yourself.


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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-03-2017, 04:25 PM Thread Starter
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Hey hey, rccbrz gets it. I couldn?t care less about a Ducati as I don?t have one. At least not yet. In all honestly, I?m in it for the long haul on the RC. I know I?ll never be the fastest on her but that doesn?t excuse the fact that I love this bike and have a passion for making it the best I can... within financial reality anyway. Lol

2002 Baconator SP2 with things and shit
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-03-2017, 05:36 PM
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I feel ya dog.
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-04-2017, 10:07 AM
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Performance engine parts are rare and expensive (capital E).
Better to leave the engine stock and concentrate on other areas.
Quality suspension components and lighter wheels are a good buy, plus trying to shed excess weight.

The cost of goodies for this bike can add up quickly over time.
Don't ask me how I know, and I did all this on a budget and was lucky to find parts being sold at the time.
Right time, right place. Which seems to have mostly dried up these days.

Even then, there was no way I could afford any internal engine mods, that's why I bought my engine years ago off a racer who retired his bike and parted it out.
He put $10,000 in the engine alone, which was way beyond my pocket book.

I'm not going to race it, so it will live as a fun play bike on the streets, so it should last a long time.
I have some key HRC parts stashed away, but even then, if any major component will need replacement in the future, that will be it.
I have the original engine, and can swap it back at any time.
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