Dino to Synthetic - Honda RC51 Forum : RC51 Motorcycle Forums
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-26-2010, 08:21 PM Thread Starter
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Dino to Synthetic

I have an '04 rc with 2600 miles. At what mileage do I change to full synthetic? I'm hearing different opinions. From now to 7K or 8K to allow the dino to break in the rings. Clutch?
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-26-2010, 09:15 PM
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At 2600 miles I'd say your rings are about as broke in as they'll get.
I recently read where it's recommended to take the intermediate step of semi-synthetic to full synthetic from mineral based oil.
This is due to some mineral based oils don't mesh well with full synthetic.

Of course I read this after I changed from mineral based to full synthetic on my FZ1.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-02-2010, 09:46 PM
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I caught wind of something similar on Speedzilla about waiting to change to synthetic somewhere north of 4,000 miles. I bought my 2004 from it's previous, first owner with 4,704 miles on it. He had the dealership do all the oil changes and they (by default) run GN4. I figured that was enough and switched to synthetic. I've had no worries about it.

Similar to SubSailor, I thought the same thing after having switched my brand new '09 650R from mineral to synthetic at just 2,500 miles.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-30-2010, 02:39 PM
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I changed my 07 CBR1000RR to full synthetic at 500 miles. No issues whatsoever!
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-27-2010, 09:17 AM
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You can switch to synthetic at any time, a modern motor should be well broken in after a proper first 500 miles. Be aware to avoid using any oil that says "Energy Conserving" on the label as it may cause clutch slipping issues, dino or synthetic. Best to stick with a motorcycle specific oil for that reason.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-21-2011, 01:08 AM
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According to my knowledge engines can be changed from any oil or to synthetic oil at any time, as there is no real chemical difference..Also Switching between synthetic and conventional oil back and forth does not cause problems. Because the oils are compatible..
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-17-2011, 12:04 AM
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If you change to early to full synthetic, you could glaze the bores, after a few thousand miles on non synthetic then change you should be good.

I work at a Holden car dealer, , and we did have a few new car buyers come back with engines blowing smoke.The engines were all small block chev's, and they had all changed out the oil to full synthetic after only 500kms, even though it was explained in the warranty and run in period not to do this.

Thr cure was a engine strip and de-glaze of the bores, with a few red faced owners, they followed the breakin procedure and all was good.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-17-2011, 05:03 PM
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I always heard use mineral oil for the first oil change, then the next change you could run whatever you wanted, that's what I did for all my machines, but I always used HP-4 10w40 semi not the HP-4S full synthetic in the quads/bikes/even the power equipment we use the HP-4.

Even my Yamaha's and Suzuki's got HP-4,that's how much I like that oil.
post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-17-2011, 05:54 PM
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The idea is to break in the engine then shift over to synthetic.
Synthetic has such good film strength, the rings can't sufficiently wear against the cylinder to mutually polish themselves (break in).
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