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post #1 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-15-2010, 06:03 PM Thread Starter
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Fork rebuild?

Has anyone ever disassembled and rebuilt the forks on their SP-2?
I have mine apart, but can't see the best way to disassemble the cartridge in order to access the rebound valve and the top out spring.
Any help would be great.
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post #2 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-15-2010, 08:52 PM
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I've disassembled my forks, but I never had to pull the top-out spring.
I had previously had sent to Kyle Racing and they installed shorter top-out springs.
To access the rebound valve, I remove the cartridge and slide the damper rod out the bottom. You will have to remove the oil lock piece to do this, but Kyle Racing had already removed mine anyways.
Rather than use the oil lock piece to limit compression travel, Kyle and others prefer to use oil level to cause the air spring inside the fork to limit full travel.
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post #3 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-15-2010, 11:01 PM Thread Starter
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I am considering removing the oil lock thing. It seems like the only option to get to the rebound valve. The reason I hesitate is once I do this, it will be past the point of no return.
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post #4 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-15-2010, 11:25 PM
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Once you remove the oil lock piece, the damper rod with rebound valve should slide right out the bottom.
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post #5 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-15-2010, 11:34 PM
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Remember, if you choose to leave the oil lock piece removed, you will have to use the oil level to increase the air spring in the fork to control full downward movement.

Traxxion-Dynamics recommended an oil level of 120mm without spring installed.
I found this to be slightly less than 525cc of oil.

Also, when you're reinstalling the adjust case assembly, be sure and preload the rebound adjuster by turning the rebound adjuster CW the total number of turns it would be at full rebound, which on mine was 4.75 turns as received from Kyle Racing.
Then thread the adjust case onto the damper rod and gently rotate until it stops (don't force it or you will damage the rebound needle).
Then tighten the jam not against the adjust case.

I found thin tappet wrenches the best to loosen or tighten the lock nut onto the top of the adjust case for the fork bolt.

Last edited by SubSailor; 10-15-2010 at 11:47 PM.
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post #6 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-18-2010, 11:01 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Sub for all your help.
I'm calling Dan Kyle tonight when I get home from work.
I'll let you know how everything goes.
Is that the stock rebound valve in that image above?
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post #7 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-18-2010, 08:50 PM
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No. That's the Kyle equivalent of the Ohlins rebound valve.
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post #8 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-20-2010, 03:39 PM Thread Starter
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I spoke to Dan Kyle yesterday. He was awesome. He gave some great tips on rebuilding my forks, and is sending me a set of Ohlins valves set up for my weight.
He told me what you said Sub about the hydraulic locks.
Cheers to you and Dan for all of your help.
Too bad I have to wait until the spring to try them out.
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post #9 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-21-2010, 11:27 AM
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Here's a comparison between the ohlins and traxxion-dynamics compression valves.
Notice the different port sizes.

Ohlins compression valve


Traxxion-Dynamics compression valve


And here is a comparison between the two compression valves and associated shim stacks.

Last edited by SubSailor; 10-21-2010 at 11:32 AM.
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post #10 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-21-2010, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
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Interesting differences. Which do you prefer?
I'm looking forward to mine coming in.
Did you have to file off the end of the thread on the center post first in order to remove the stack?
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