Ohlins 832 and BST install help - Honda RC51 Forum : RC51 Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-21-2017, 02:53 PM Thread Starter
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Ohlins 832 and BST install help

Got a set of BSTs last year after selling my 07 600RR. Just ordered for 02 RC51 and didn't consider my R&T forks would be an issue. I've been modifying my bike for the last 2 years a little bit at a time. The rear wheel went on no problem except I had to modify the Beringer low mount caliper but no big deal. So working my way to the front of the bike I just finished the battery relocate and moved my starter relay as well. So now I go to fit the front wheel and hey, it doesn't fit. I took out the right side wheel spacer provided by Ohlins and put the wheel in with the axle just to get an idea where everything fits, If the axle is positioned normal that is, at the line, it pushes the wheel off center and the rotor is touching the caliper sides. If I line up the wheel where the rotors are centered up in the calipers (eyeball. not measured) the axle will protrude from the left side and it appears I need around 7.4mm give or take at the spacer on the right. O.k., first did I miss something? Need some help from one of you that has already done this. How should I proceed or does anyone have a reasonably precise measurement for the right side axle spacer to set the wheel center? Or are there substitute parts that will work? So guys any help would be appreciated and if you happen to live in the SF bay area I will reciprocate if possible if you need help for motorcycle projects.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-21-2017, 06:50 PM
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You need the Dan Kyle RED wheel spacer for the aftermarket wheels. About $54.I had to buy one to fit my BST to the 322 model fork.

-2001 Honda RC51 sp1 " Slightly Modified "
-2001 Honda 929RR Erion Edition
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-21-2017, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Matt but Sand City Duck Hunter says no dice on 832 fitment. He was first contact. Hey pm me cost for matte finish hugger for my 02. Swing arm needs finishing touch! Come on guys one of you gotta have old 832 R&Ts with a BST front.Haven't given much thought as to determine how much spacing needed to get wheel centered. Maybe measure rotor to caliper clearance on mock up and then measure distance on right side from fork to BST captive collar.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-21-2017, 08:49 PM
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Do you want the small cut or large cut ?

-2001 Honda RC51 sp1 " Slightly Modified "
-2001 Honda 929RR Erion Edition
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-22-2017, 07:12 PM Thread Starter
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Couple more goodies from Matt and this project will be done. On the wheel issue I decided since a lot of the manufacturers have you set the front brake to center the wheel after tire changes and so forth, that the calipers should make a good reference point. Thought it was going to take 7mm of spacer but actually ended up at 1.65mm and near as I can figure I'm about .0025 off. So one more light swipe with the mill should do it. I had also emailed BST and got a response today. Charmaine referred me to MotoWheels but by this time I was pretty close to hacking it out. Anyway I appreciate someone read the email and tried to help. I've read several post on here, Zilla and BARF where some one discussed having to make spacers but usually no one goes into detail how they arrive at the size needed. and I suck at math and yet I'm trying to teach myself machine skills at 68. Thank god for calculators!
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-22-2017, 08:35 PM
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I hope it works out for you and would be a great addition of information to kwtoxmans's guide to ohlins thread.

Let me know what I can help with via PM or email.

Good luck with the measurements and mathematics!
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-2001 Honda RC51 sp1 " Slightly Modified "
-2001 Honda 929RR Erion Edition
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-23-2017, 07:46 AM
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I have the FG43 /832 set up and when I installed my Carrozzeria front on , I had to plane down the right side TopHat spacer to be able to fit the wheel . I wouldn't recommend that because tophat spacers are no longer available . I got the last one from Ohlins at the time . The Red DK did not work on my install , You could get one milled up by a machinist . Here is a PDF if this helps. Worked for me several times, including the latest , on the fit for my Berenger calipers . Good luck . https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5J...VLREllaHc/edit May not help you with your brand of wheels but the diagram may help.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-23-2017, 04:36 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Cape Codder. all good info. I had already started to cut down the top hat spacer so too late on that but it doesn't look hard to duplicate on a lathe if I jack up mine. Since the wheel must be centered to the calipers and there are a couple of hard mounts for reference I decided to use those measurements to get the wheel centered and then measure the remaining gap at the rt side. I started using feeler gauge to determine the gap from the rotor to the nearest edge of the caliper. It's doable but a pita. Then I tried a depth guage from the rear fender mount to the rotor. This was how I determined how much to cut the spacer. The wheel and rotors need to be mounted and torqued. I also found the offset of the two mounts was .1mm different so I had to add or subtract when measuring to the rotor depending on which side. The mounts are machined pieces and are 5mm thick with less than .01mm variance so didn't worry about that. I started with the axle just barely tight in the fork clamps so I could tap the axle into position. It was a little tedious but basically got me where I needed to be. Don't have a lathe (yet) but I just got a LittleMachineShop bench top mill. I hack sawed the collar down to the flange portion of the spacer and mounted it to a small rotorary table and then milled it down. I always left a little more than the actual measurements and then fit it to the axle and check specs again. The figure I posted previous was not the final one. The flange portion of the spaced ended up at 1.16mm. Due to some of the variations already noted someone doing this at home may come up with a slightly different figure but it will be close to that. I think by measurement I may be off by .05mm or about .002" from center but don't think that's a problem. Hell Honda allows 2mm axial runout of the wheen so I think I'm good. Time to take the wheel to my bud Ken who has a tire machine in his garage.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-23-2017, 04:59 PM
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10th , keep an eye on the inside pad drag on the right caliper . That was the most difficult for me . Spin the wheel and brake several times and make sure the caliper pistons retract all the way and don't drag on the rotor as well . They don't need to overheat and warp
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-23-2017, 05:39 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Cape Codder, I definitely will look for that. I just rebuilt the calipers and polished the pistons so all should be good. Actually the rotor dragging on the caliper was what I noticed first when I did the first
dry run. My buddy had been bugging me to get my tire mounted but I told him I was going to fit everything and check it before tire on. Lot easier taking the bare wheel on and off especially CF! I assembled everything but left the pads out and the rotors both appear to be centered relative to the caliper split line. But I will look out for that. When I started this build I promised myself to not compromise on anything if possible. Getting close to done and can't wait to head up 128 or Hiway one again. Got some great roads in my backyard practically. Fall and winter usually best riding around here.
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