I may need a SP2 ECU/CDI :( - Honda RC51 Forum : RC51 Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-24-2015, 06:55 AM Thread Starter
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I may need a SP2 ECU/CDI :(

If anyone has these parts please let me know. We are still trouble shooting the bike but it looks like these may be the problem.
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-24-2015, 07:29 AM
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I'd suggest, although I know it's hard to do, to get your ECU and Converter unit out of your bike and go to a friend that has an RC.
Even a fellow from this forum that lives nearby.
The other guy's bike wont risk anything if you plug your part on it and crank it.

The converter unit can be tested on any RC available (SP1 or SP2)
The ECU only to an SP2

Just an opinion


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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-24-2015, 09:20 AM Thread Starter
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If anyone has one they would "loan" me for a small deposit so I could do my tests that would be extremely helpful.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-24-2015, 10:06 AM
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Be careful here.
Try your ECU and Converter Box to another RC.
Don't try any other ECU on your RC until we figure out what's really wrong.


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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-24-2015, 11:09 AM Thread Starter
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OK. Got it. In case my bike is causing the issues I don't wanna ruin someone else's stuff. Got cha. Please disregard previous post of mine.
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-24-2015, 01:11 PM
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-24-2015, 01:25 PM Thread Starter
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Sweet! I'll take a good long look at this tonight. Thanks!
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-24-2015, 02:01 PM
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I've got a converter you can try. Check your PMs.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-24-2015, 02:22 PM Thread Starter
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Caracal...what wires should we test to verify the converter is not functioning correctly? The repais looks simple enough, but I would like to verify the fault first.
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-25-2015, 05:33 PM
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Here is the color list of the converter wires for the EUROPEAN SP2 (bare in mind a very tiny possibility, american, australian or other models MIGHT have differrent colors)

Blue-yellow stripe = converter output to cylinder 2 coil
Yellow-blue stripe = converter output to cylinder 1 coil

Black-white stripe = +12V
Green = Ground

Black-blue stripe = converter input coming from ECU for cylinder 1
Black-yellow stripe = converter input coming from ECU for cylinder 1.

Disconect converter and check the wirings for continuity where it should be, for example does the output of converter really connects to the coil?

Black-white should be +12 when key is ON and killswitch is RUN.
Green should be full connectivity to - pole of the battery at all times.

Input wires should be +5V (compared to ground), when key is ON and killswitch is RUN, and as you crank the engine, should go 0V momenteraly and back 5V on every rev of the crank. (you can make your own test device for ECU signals here: take two 5v simple LEDs, and connect both leds - to the green wire, and black-blue to the one LED +, black-yellow to the other LED +. Key to ON and kill on RUN, both LEDs should light. Cranking the engine, the LEDs should light off once of every engine rev. I did that on mine). Failure to measure these signal from ECU, means there is a problem somewhere BEFORE the converter.

If all of these are OK, and wiring to the ignition coils is also OK, with converter in place connected, cranking the engine, and no High Tension Voltage on output to the coils (100V or more), then you've got a classic converter failure.

If you have no 5-0volt signals from ECU to the converter input, then it's a ECU dead problem or crank position sensor problem (in that case an error should be recorded by the ECU and FI should light)

I hope I helped a bit, sorry for my poor english.

Last edited by TheCaracal; 03-25-2015 at 06:05 PM.
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