Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Porto Rafti, Greece
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Here is the color list of the converter wires for the EUROPEAN SP2 (bare in mind a very tiny possibility, american, australian or other models MIGHT have differrent colors)
Blue-yellow stripe = converter output to cylinder 2 coil
Yellow-blue stripe = converter output to cylinder 1 coil
Black-white stripe = +12V
Green = Ground
Black-blue stripe = converter input coming from ECU for cylinder 1
Black-yellow stripe = converter input coming from ECU for cylinder 1.
Disconect converter and check the wirings for continuity where it should be, for example does the output of converter really connects to the coil?
Black-white should be +12 when key is ON and killswitch is RUN.
Green should be full connectivity to - pole of the battery at all times.
Input wires should be +5V (compared to ground), when key is ON and killswitch is RUN, and as you crank the engine, should go 0V momenteraly and back 5V on every rev of the crank. (you can make your own test device for ECU signals here: take two 5v simple LEDs, and connect both leds - to the green wire, and black-blue to the one LED +, black-yellow to the other LED +. Key to ON and kill on RUN, both LEDs should light. Cranking the engine, the LEDs should light off once of every engine rev. I did that on mine). Failure to measure these signal from ECU, means there is a problem somewhere BEFORE the converter.
If all of these are OK, and wiring to the ignition coils is also OK, with converter in place connected, cranking the engine, and no High Tension Voltage on output to the coils (100V or more), then you've got a classic converter failure.
If you have no 5-0volt signals from ECU to the converter input, then it's a ECU dead problem or crank position sensor problem (in that case an error should be recorded by the ECU and FI should light)
I hope I helped a bit, sorry for my poor english.
Last edited by TheCaracal; 03-25-2015 at 06:05 PM.