2014 vfr800 - Honda RC51 Forum : RC51 Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-05-2013, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
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2014 vfr800

Stumbled across these short videos for the 2014 VFR800.
The front cowl bears a strong resemblance to the 5th gen.


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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-05-2013, 08:41 PM
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Wow - that does look very nice. Lots of great improvements over the older bikes of course. Shame it's loaded with electronics all over. Can't be helped in this modern day, I guess but it makes for a less user-friendly DIY maintenance / improvement machine.

Maybe if they prove to be reliable and as well built as the originals - someday when they're depreciated I'll look at buying one, but the old (VFR750) dog still soldiers on so well - why bother?

Anyways, good to see they're thinking again. The VFR1200 which promised so much, turned out to be a flop.

Euro RC51 SP2: HRC WSB Ti Hi-Level, T1 Airbox & Snorkel, PCIII, Dymag CA5 Carbon Wheels, Ti64 Spindles (F, R & Swing Arm), Mori Link, Maxton GP7 Shock & Ohlins 832 Forks, Brembo GP Calipers & SBK narrow track (F), Braketech Disc (R), Brembo billet Underslung x 2 Brembo RCS, Tyga Triple, 7075 Stem, Probolt Titanium all over, Babyface rearsets, MR Complete Carbon Lineup, Custom Undertail & CBR 1000 LED, Watsen LED Indicators, Harris Brace, Giles clip-ons, Corbin seat, etc. 2013 BOTY.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-05-2013, 08:45 PM
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Wow - that does look very nice. Lots of great improvements over the older bikes of course. Shame it's loaded with electronics all over. Can't be helped in this modern day, I guess but it makes for a less user-friendly DIY maintenance / improvement machine.

Maybe if they prove to be reliable and as well built as the originals - someday when they're depreciated I'll look at buying one, but the old (VFR750) dog still soldiers on so well - why bother?

Anyways, good to see they're thinking again. The VFR1200 which promised so much, turned out to be a flop.
Quite strange looking.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-05-2013, 10:58 PM Thread Starter
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No joke about the VFR1200.
I never see any on the road, and I know only 2 individuals who bought them.
However, I do see several 2 or 3 year old 1200's listed on Craigs List, which is not a glowing endorsement, unless the sellers needed the money.

I thought Honda discontinued VFR800 in favor of that strange, funky, cross-over bike based on the VFR800 engine.
With an installed base of 75000, I'm guessing Honda figured they had best bring back their most popular, best selling line of bikes.

I think I'll keep my 2000 VFR800. No V-tech crap, just good old reliable gear drive.
I would love to ditch the linked brake system on mine. That was a stupid idea they had.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-06-2013, 12:10 AM
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Stuff like ABS & traction control, heated grips with 5 settings, self-cancelling indicators (Which might breed some bad habits?), Stepper-drive rev counter, LED headlights, nice wheels, new styling, etc. all seem attractive, but I wonder if it's really that nice to ride? Lashings of CANBUS electronics just waiting to fail over time with plenty of quietening down & reducing of emissions to keep the boffins happy. Does this make for a better bike to own in the long term than the proven trouble free originals?

I agree with you Sub. Keep the older bike. Gear driven cams are nice indeed.
On my 1990 although checked, it's never even needed the valves adjusting and is nearing 70,000 miles. This is low mileage compared to some.
Unbreakable build quality that's proven itself over 2 decades, with ease of maintenance and DIY home care.

The 1200 VFR's had several recalls and I've heard of engine problems at low mileage too.

Sometimes simplicity is a better route. Somehow I don't think these new bikes will be as well built, trouble free, easy to maintain nor long lasting as the original more "organic" VFR's.

Interesting as how many RC51 owners have either had a VFR in the past, or own one still. Can't pinpoint why, but there seem to be a fair few.

Euro RC51 SP2: HRC WSB Ti Hi-Level, T1 Airbox & Snorkel, PCIII, Dymag CA5 Carbon Wheels, Ti64 Spindles (F, R & Swing Arm), Mori Link, Maxton GP7 Shock & Ohlins 832 Forks, Brembo GP Calipers & SBK narrow track (F), Braketech Disc (R), Brembo billet Underslung x 2 Brembo RCS, Tyga Triple, 7075 Stem, Probolt Titanium all over, Babyface rearsets, MR Complete Carbon Lineup, Custom Undertail & CBR 1000 LED, Watsen LED Indicators, Harris Brace, Giles clip-ons, Corbin seat, etc. 2013 BOTY.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-06-2013, 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by The Stig View Post
Stuff like ABS & traction control, heated grips with 5 settings, self-cancelling indicators (Which might breed some bad habits?), Stepper-drive rev counter, LED headlights, nice wheels, new styling, etc. all seem attractive, but I wonder if it's really that nice to ride? Lashings of CANBUS electronics just waiting to fail over time with plenty of quietening down & reducing of emissions to keep the boffins happy. Does this make for a better bike to own in the long term than the proven trouble free originals?

I agree with you Sub. Keep the older bike. Gear driven cams are nice indeed.
On my 1990 although checked, it's never even needed the valves adjusting and is nearing 70,000 miles. This is low mileage compared to some.
Unbreakable build quality that's proven itself over 2 decades, with ease of maintenance and DIY home care.

The 1200 VFR's had several recalls and I've heard of engine problems at low mileage too.

Sometimes simplicity is a better route. Somehow I don't think these new bikes will be as well built, trouble free, easy to maintain nor long lasting as the original more "organic" VFR's.

Interesting as how many RC51 owners have either had a VFR in the past, or own one still. Can't pinpoint why, but there seem to be a fair few.
Carb rebuilds are a PITA. That said if stored and drained properly they would never need service.

The bike is timeless and reminds me of the nsr
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-06-2013, 07:49 AM
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Not that difficult. Would rather clean out the innards of a carb, than have to deal with crud inside an injection system. Any little tiny piece will lodge itself in the injector's gauze filter, where on a carb at least there's a float bowl where a little sediment can collect and cause no issues, usually. I was able to repair a set of gunked up carbs (And yes, they were drained before the bike was stored!) within a day using basic tools, acetone, compressed air & a jet wash nozzle. Not so sure that would have been possible on a high pressure fuel injected system!

Euro RC51 SP2: HRC WSB Ti Hi-Level, T1 Airbox & Snorkel, PCIII, Dymag CA5 Carbon Wheels, Ti64 Spindles (F, R & Swing Arm), Mori Link, Maxton GP7 Shock & Ohlins 832 Forks, Brembo GP Calipers & SBK narrow track (F), Braketech Disc (R), Brembo billet Underslung x 2 Brembo RCS, Tyga Triple, 7075 Stem, Probolt Titanium all over, Babyface rearsets, MR Complete Carbon Lineup, Custom Undertail & CBR 1000 LED, Watsen LED Indicators, Harris Brace, Giles clip-ons, Corbin seat, etc. 2013 BOTY.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-06-2013, 08:51 AM
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Not that difficult. Would rather clean out the innards of a carb, than have to deal with crud inside an injection system. Any little tiny piece will lodge itself in the injector's gauze filter, where on a carb at least there's a float bowl where a little sediment can collect and cause no issues, usually. I was able to repair a set of gunked up carbs (And yes, they were drained before the bike was stored!) within a day using basic tools, acetone, compressed air & a jet wash nozzle. Not so sure that would have been possible on a high pressure fuel injected system!
Carbs themselves are a breeze, however on a V4 getting the assy. seated even with new boots is a pita also balancing them adjusting the screws at temp sucks and parts are stupid expensive.

http://vfrworld.com/forums/showthrea...highlight=carb
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-06-2013, 09:49 AM
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I'm still using 20 year old boots and I've had the carbs off & back on several times. I just loosened all the clamps, sprayed some WD40 on them and angled the boots as best I could before applying pressure. Worked each time.
Balancing - wearing some cotton gloves and some longish sleeves whilst using a small screw driver worked for me. I did try to use an angled screw driver, but gave that up fairly quickly. It's not really that hot under there.

I have to take the tank off again soon to replace the fuel tap which has a very slow leak, but enough to be a concern for bearing in mind the proximity of the exhausts - that I haven't used the bike since I discovered this. But it's such a simple thing.
Rather this than electronics which throw up fault codes, go into limp mode, need computers to reset, etc. I prefer a couple of wrenches and screwdrivers and it's fixed!

Euro RC51 SP2: HRC WSB Ti Hi-Level, T1 Airbox & Snorkel, PCIII, Dymag CA5 Carbon Wheels, Ti64 Spindles (F, R & Swing Arm), Mori Link, Maxton GP7 Shock & Ohlins 832 Forks, Brembo GP Calipers & SBK narrow track (F), Braketech Disc (R), Brembo billet Underslung x 2 Brembo RCS, Tyga Triple, 7075 Stem, Probolt Titanium all over, Babyface rearsets, MR Complete Carbon Lineup, Custom Undertail & CBR 1000 LED, Watsen LED Indicators, Harris Brace, Giles clip-ons, Corbin seat, etc. 2013 BOTY.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-06-2013, 10:09 AM
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Not bad, I'd pimp it.

'06 Black/Metallic Gray RC51
-Competition Werkes FE w/
Clear Alternatives IT

'02 Silver/Black CBR 954RR
'11 Graphite Black CBR 1000RR (sold '15)
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