How To Change Your Oil (RC51 Edition) - Honda RC51 Forum : RC51 Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-27-2013, 12:13 AM Thread Starter
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How To Change Your Oil (RC51 Edition)

It's that season again when the weather is nice and a lot of new riders are buying used bikes. First thing you should do with a used bike is change the oil. Why pay someone else when working on your own bike is so much funner (and cheaper)?

Changing the oil is very simple and only requires a socket wrench and a funnel (plus whatever you need to remove your fairings).

Oil Type: of course always check your service manual for the oil type recommended for your bike but you can sometimes use other types as well depending on relevant temps in your area.

This image is from the RC51 manual:



Most likely your recommended oil type will be 10w40 and if you do any cold weather riding that will be best. If you live in an area where its never really cold then you can use 15w40 (which is what i run) and if you live somewhere very hot you can run 20w50.

You also do not have to run a motorcycle specific oil. The oils that target bikes can cost a bit more than car oil. This is what i run...



I've heard from a lot of riders that have been using Shell's Rotella T for thousands of miles and when they crack the motor open its as clean as a factory engine with an original clutch.

For more info on oils check here

As far as changing the oil filter... A lot of riders change the filter when they change the oil at around 3,000 miles. I personally think every other oil change is just fine. (6,000 miles). Especially if you are a oil change nut and change oil every 1,500 miles. I changed mine last oil change so i am not doing it this time.


The Process:

First thing to do is go for a ride! Get the engine nice and warm and therefor the oil will be nice and warm (and thin) making it easier to drain. A 10 minute ride should do.

Remove all the fairings (if you have any of course). Remove the cap where you will put the new oil into the bike (making draining easier and faster).

Remove the bolt on the oil pan with something to catch the oil afterwards (the oil pan pictured was only $8.00 from Lowes). The oil draining bolt is always located on the bottom of the bike either on the side or the very bottom. When you think all oil is out, stand the bike up evenly and put back down on the stand. There is always more in there!

Mine is located off the side slightly:





When putting the oil bolt back on, check the manual for recommended torque lbs. Use an appropriate torque wrench. For an RC51 it's 22 Ft lbs. The oil filter is 19 Ft lbs. You do not want to over tighten! Also using your finger, dab a small amount of oil around the bolt before replacing to help with tightening.

Putting in the new stuff:



On the opposite side of the bike there is a black cap on the bikes clutch. Here you're going to want to put in a funnel and add the new oil. The average bike will need somewhere around 4 to 5 quartz. Check the manual to be sure. When in doubt simply keep checking the oil spy glass below the clutch until the oil is between the two lines. Check the spy glass while the bike is upright on level ground (kickstand up). Look at your manual to be sure, some bikes need to be checked with the kickstand down.

From RC51 manual:






Afterwards run the bike for about 3 minutes and check your oil levels again. there is a good chance you will need to add a little more oil.

That's all there is to it! I am by no means a mechanic but i think it's important to know a few basics about bike maintenance including changing clutch fluid, brake fluid and keeping the chain waxed/lubed. Staying on top of these basics will keep the bike safe and enjoyable for thousands of miles!
:ride

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Last edited by WarpSpeed; 05-27-2013 at 02:25 AM.
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post #2 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-27-2013, 12:32 AM
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You also do not have to run a motorcycle specific oil

This is contrary to what i have always been told. I specifically remember hearing that auto oils lack the necessary friction modifiers for a wet clutch.

Maybe some of the power members could chime in...


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post #3 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-27-2013, 02:03 AM Thread Starter
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this is something that can be argued to death however as i stated many riders have used it for thousands of miles and are still running on the original clutch.

however i should specify that not just any car oil will do!!!

specifically stay away from any bottle that says it is energy saving because that will indeed ruin the clutch. the vast majority say to use heavy duty diesel oil. the shell rotella T is the brand specific one that everyone raves about.

2003 RC51 #152 of 2000

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post #4 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-27-2013, 02:11 AM
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Nice write up....moved to "How-to's". Thanks for taking the time...
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post #5 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-27-2013, 07:26 AM
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I run Shell Rotella T6 synthetic oil for years in my bikes, and never had any problems.
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post #6 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-27-2013, 09:07 AM
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Diesel oil is not meant to run in wet clutches, not saying it won't work but i would say you are putting your motor at risk, there is ALOT of detergent and wax in diesel oil , why put your motor at risk when you can just go buy some Full synthetic Repsol for $35 for 4 liters.

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post #7 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-27-2013, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RickyBobbyv8 View Post
Diesel oil is not meant to run in wet clutches, not saying it won't work but i would say you are putting your motor at risk, there is ALOT of detergent and wax in diesel oil , why put your motor at risk when you can just go buy some Full synthetic Repsol for $35 for 4 liters.
I pay 19 bucks for 4 quarts ...where do you get 4 liter for 35 bucks ?
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post #8 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-27-2013, 10:00 AM
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Danger

Be sure to run JASO T904-MA and MA2 approved oils, these are designed for wet clutch use. Rotella has this designation. If not you run the risk of damaging your clutch/engine.

Nice write up too.



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post #10 of 35 (permalink) Old 05-27-2013, 10:17 AM
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Pictures from me checking my valve lash last night, 19k miles never been adjusted, still in spec, Repsol and Mobil 1 full synthetic all its life changed every 3k with Honda filter.

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