SP1 Fan: Toggle Switch - Honda RC51 Forum : RC51 Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-29-2016, 02:05 PM Thread Starter
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SP1 Fan: Toggle Switch

This diagram is for the SP1 only, and how to properly wire in a manual toggle switch. You're on your own to determine where to mount it.

This will allow you to turn your fan on whenever you please, but allows for the fan to work automatically when the switch is turned off, so no need to worry about constantly monitoring engine temp. Even with the toggle switch on, the fan will stop when the ignition key is turned off. That's because the fan gets power from the fuse box, which is a switched power source.

I'd recommend to check all related ground points, clean and use a dab of dielectric grease.

Use 16 gauge wire for the splice, and solder the connection. You don't want any failures from those cheesy crimp/splice connectors.

On SP1, the fan uses a 10 amp fuse in the fuse box, (the forward most fuse), so maybe a toggle switch of at least 10 amp rating would work, but I'd rather err on the side of overkill. That's why I recommend a 20 amp toggle switch. I'd also recommend one of high quality and waterproof.






Big Thank You to @extrapolator for creating the diagram for this thread. I gave him a hand drawn draft and he got it all gussied up.
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John, 2000 RC51 #000100


Last edited by jondog9; 01-29-2016 at 02:09 PM.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-09-2016, 08:23 AM
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SP1 Fan: Toggle Switch

Awesome. Now how to do this on the sp2.

Or is there a difference.


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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-09-2016, 08:33 AM
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I assume you tie into this one??

So same as sp1




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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-09-2016, 04:08 PM
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That's a very clever and useful mod, jondog.

Years ago, I put a small LED in the circuit so I could "see" when the fan comes on. Peace of mind when caught in traffic. LED is discreetly mounted at the top of the gage panel with a wee bit of double-tape.

When underway under ANY temperature condition or ANY level of flogging, my SP1 runs at a nice 185-190F, but when stopped goes straight to Damn Hot, so it's nice to see that fan light wink on around 210 or so.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-08-2016, 02:52 PM
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I completed the spal fan and toggle switch mod, however when I run it the fan does not switch on via the thermo switch. It is wired as per the diagram, toggle switch works fine, just not thermo switch.

Any suggestions?

Thank you.

2001 RC51
1990 ZXR 750 (sold)
1990 VFR 400 NC30 (sold)
1989 CBR 250 RR (sold)
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-08-2016, 11:06 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Cambo View Post
I completed the spal fan and toggle switch mod, however when I run it the fan does not switch on via the thermo switch. It is wired as per the diagram, toggle switch works fine, just not thermo switch.

Any suggestions?

Thank you.
Without seeing your wiring, I can't answer that.
If your thermo switch won't operate the fan when the toggle is off, I can only assume you got something wrong on your wiring or your thermo switch gave out. You hooked the ground wire back up to the thermoswitch after splicing right?
If you're confident in your wiring, you may need to remove the thermoswitch and test it. I have posts describing how to do that if you care to search. It's in the service manual too.
I've tried this on my SP1 and it worked as I said it would. I chose not to keep it installed because I didn't want to mount the switch permanently and I just don't have cooling issues that require the toggle switch.

John, 2000 RC51 #000100

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-09-2016, 10:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jondog9 View Post
Without seeing your wiring, I can't answer that.
If your thermo switch won't operate the fan when the toggle is off, I can only assume you got something wrong on your wiring or your thermo switch gave out. You hooked the ground wire back up to the thermoswitch after splicing right?
If you're confident in your wiring, you may need to remove the thermoswitch and test it. I have posts describing how to do that if you care to search. It's in the service manual too.
I've tried this on my SP1 and it worked as I said it would. I chose not to keep it installed because I didn't want to mount the switch permanently and I just don't have cooling issues that require the toggle switch.
I was pretty confident with the wiring (until the thermo switch didn't work), I will say it is unlikely that the thermo switch gave up the ghost right when I wired the new fan up, unlikely but not impossible.

Thanks Jondog, I will review the wiring this week and then test the switch if it all checks out.

2001 RC51
1990 ZXR 750 (sold)
1990 VFR 400 NC30 (sold)
1989 CBR 250 RR (sold)
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-09-2016, 02:05 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Cambo View Post
I was pretty confident with the wiring (until the thermo switch didn't work), I will say it is unlikely that the thermo switch gave up the ghost right when I wired the new fan up, unlikely but not impossible.

Thanks Jondog, I will review the wiring this week and then test the switch if it all checks out.
After inspecting your wiring, if no problem is found, unhook your switch from the splice wire. This will eliminate the switch from the circuit. Then you're back to original and you can start the bike up and see if your spal fan will kick on automatically at ~219F and back off at ~209F.
If it does, seemingly there's a problem with the wiring or the switch itself. (you said the fan operates on the switch, so I doubt there's a problem with it.)
If it doesn't, you know the splice/wiring isn't the problem. Continue troubleshooting the thermoswitch and fan's wiring. Be SURE grounding points are in good shape.

The splice won't interrupt the grounding job of the (solid black) wire between the fan and thermoswitch. You're merely piggybacking onto it, and when you close the switch (on) your mimicking exactly what the thermoswitch does: provide ground to the fan so it operates.

Did you get a single pole single throw switch? What is the volt and amp rating on it? I'm just curious, I don't see how it could be causing your particular problem.

Good luck, it's bound to be something simple.

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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-09-2016, 02:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jondog9 View Post
After inspecting your wiring, if no problem is found, unhook your switch from the splice wire. This will eliminate the switch from the circuit. Then you're back to original and you can start the bike up and see if your spal fan will kick on automatically at ~219F and back off at ~209F.
If it does, seemingly there's a problem with the wiring or the switch itself. (you said the fan operates on the switch, so I doubt there's a problem with it.)
If it doesn't, you know the splice/wiring isn't the problem. Continue troubleshooting the thermoswitch and fan's wiring. Be SURE grounding points are in good shape.

The splice won't interrupt the grounding job of the (solid black) wire between the fan and thermoswitch. You're merely piggybacking onto it, and when you close the switch (on) your mimicking exactly what the thermoswitch does: provide ground to the fan so it operates.

Did you get a single pole single throw switch? What is the volt and amp rating on it? I'm just curious, I don't see how it could be causing your particular problem.

Good luck, it's bound to be something simple.
Thank you!

I will start remove the toggle switch and see how that goes, am using a 20 amp two contact interrupter switch. If it doesn't kick on I will remove the thermo and test that.

Thanks again.

2001 RC51
1990 ZXR 750 (sold)
1990 VFR 400 NC30 (sold)
1989 CBR 250 RR (sold)
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-09-2016, 02:30 PM Thread Starter
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@..stiffler.. I don't know the proper way for the SP2. I've read about it a few times here in the past, but don't remember the details.
I know our search engine leaves a little to be desired, but you can probably find it.

Here's one I found, hope it helps answer your question.
b.miller123 (a seriously legit member here) raises a very good point in post #6 as it's always better to let a relay handle power management. That way you greatly reduce the chances of running heavy current thru long strands or under-rated wiring.

https://www.rc51forums.com/forums/60-...tml#post144609

and this one: last paragraph.
https://www.rc51forums.com/forums/18-...html#post34798

John, 2000 RC51 #000100


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