RC51 SP2 undertail install - Pimpbikes.com - Honda RC51 Forum : RC51 Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-07-2012, 03:08 PM Thread Starter
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Smile RC51 SP2 undertail install - Pimpbikes.com

Hey all,

Here is information on installing a pimpbikes.com undertail onto an RC51. Much of this information can be used for all types of undertail installations so see what you can use.

NOTE, I found that the pimpbikes undertail does not fit the SP2 RC51 (2002+) without modifications (cutting). The OEM undertray is different between the SP1 and SP2, especially with how the ECU sits in the tray.





I recently ordered and received my RC51 pimpbikes.com undertail off of ebay. I liked the look and the price, $80. Also, LED lights are included; they are supposed to be super bright. I'll post when I can confirm that. I also wanted an undertail that I could put a plate on, and plate lights. Don't want to get hassled for not having plate lights. This undertail allows for easy addition of plate lights with its long lip. There seem to be a ton of undertails with no easy plate mount, or no easy way once the plate is mounted to add a light. Lastly, I also did not want integrated signal lights. Cops can hassle integrated lights so separates it was. The pimbike's undertail met all that.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/HONDA-RC51-UN...ht_1284wt_1316

The undertail is not painted, but almost any city will have an autobody shop or supply shop that can match the paint colour you want with a sample and put it into a spraypaint rattle can. Otherwise, just pick up a more generic paint spray can touch up paint at your auto store. With a bit of work you can get a great near professional finish so don't be afraid of buying an undertail that needs painting.

It is tempting to paint the undertail right away, but I highly recommend you do that work near the end.

What one should do first is test fit the piece to the bike. This is how I found that the pimpbikes undertail does not fit the SP2 RC51 (2002+) without modifications (cutting). The OEM undertray is different between the SP1 and SP2, especially with how the ECU sits in the tray. I like the undertail overall so I decided to cut the undertail to fit. I did two cuts and then did another test fit. It works much better now. Not perfect, but fine for me (and I'm a perfectionist fwiw). I've attached pics below. I used a dremel tool with a stone grinder on it and it only took a few minutes (and beers).

Once the piece is fitted loosely on the bike and adjusted to the position you want, use a marker to mark where the holes for the undertail mount and where the underside of the rear cowl meet. You need to drill out these holes for the install. I was tempted to squeeze in the rear cowl sides and drill holes further inside the undertail to have a tighter fit to the undertail, but I confirmed that doing that would result in the concurrent oem undertray holes NOT lining up with them. So first make sure you have the rear cowl and rear undertray mount holes and tabs lined up so that when you test fit the undertail you can mark the spot where all three will align without drama.

The first pic shows the cuts I made. The bigger cut is to allow the pimpbike undertail to fit around the OEM undertray ECU holder. The smaller second cut
I made because that piece was hanging down from the rear cowl and it stuck out like a sore thumb. Cutting it back a bit makes it blend in much better imo.

The rest of the pics show the test fit of the pimpbike undertail on the SP2 RC51 and how it generally looks.

Pictures in the next link. More to come.

Last edited by kwtoxman; 02-14-2014 at 04:17 PM.
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-12-2013, 09:51 PM Thread Starter
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Pic 1 is of the cut undertail to fit the SP2, you can see how i marked, remarked and drilled the mounting points



Next 2 pics are side views of the test fit.





The last 2 pics are side views of the test fit showing the small cut.



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Last edited by kwtoxman; 03-27-2013 at 09:37 AM.
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-12-2013, 09:53 PM Thread Starter
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And the rear view test fit.

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Last edited by kwtoxman; 03-27-2013 at 09:37 AM.
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-12-2013, 10:19 PM Thread Starter
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Finally a real update here.

Next step was to tweak the brake and signal light mounts so that they were positioned perfectly. While the positioning was close as supplied, I did better.

I purchased a RC51 turn signal relay off ebay compatible with LED lights. Doing this ensured that the flash rate remained as original. Worked great.

Then I went on to mock up my plate mount and finalize my plate lights. Picked a spot, test fitted multiple times, including lighting (working) to make sure I was happy with the illumination. Then drilled the mounting holes.

I'm using plate mounting nuts/bolts with the LED light incorporated. I ended up using 4 to make sure I won't be hassled on the illumination of my rear plate. Got them here. Just make sure to order some extra. One stopped working and they are cheap. http://www.ebay.com/itm/170722481379...S:1123&vxp=mtr

Most of my delay was waiting for these LED plate lights. I didn't order enough the first time around.

I sanded down the unfinished undertail with 400 grit sand paper in order to prep it for paint.

As for painting, I got the color matched silver Honda paint in a pressurized can. I also picked up a spray can of plastic flexible primer and acrylic clearcoat in a spray can. All of these items will ensure that the paint works well. It should adhere nicely and have some flexibility (primer), not to mention stone chip resistance (clear).

Final prepaint prep was using a plastic prep cleaner available at autobody shops. It removes all grease because even finger prints can cause issues. It is solvent based and works well (also good for removing tar, bugs, almost anything on auto paint).

I used some newspaper on the floor of my garage to protect from overspray and on I went.

I turned off my garage heater to minimize dust disturbance and I sprayed on four light coats of primer with 15 minutes between coats (in a warm heated garage). After allowing one hour to flash, I applied four light coats of the metallic silver paint, with about 15 minutes between coats. After again allowing one hour to flash, proceeded to apply the clearcoat, again with 4 light coats and 15 minutes between coats.

All of these steps are generally done in this work. I thought for those who haven't done it, this may be some helpful info.

Here are a few pics as the paint finishes curing. Next steps are to refit the brake and signal lights and tail, mount the whole unit on the bike and test the wiring and brightness of the LEDs. Soon this time.



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Last edited by kwtoxman; 02-14-2014 at 04:23 PM.
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-14-2013, 05:02 PM Thread Starter
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Okay, lights have now been remounted in the undertail. Also the plate lights and plate were attached. Pics attached. I haven't tightened these down yet as I'll give the clearcoat more time to fully set up and harden.





Now the undertail is ready to fit to the bike.

Since I had previously test fitted it and drilled the holes, this part is pretty easy. Still, here are some helpful hints. First thing, fit the cowl cover lock to the undertail before doing any other mounting. I had to file a bit of material away on the undertail to make it fit. It is nice and tight. Before slotting the lock all the way into the key hole (which prevents the lock from spinning in the undertail) I twisted the lock so that it was easier to fit the cable to it, because its a tight space to work. Once the cable was fitted, I slotted the lock into the key hole, put the cable mount into position on the inside, and then put the spring tab into place to finish things. It's a tight fit, but works well. There is no way to do this if you have already put the undertail on the bike (I now know this ).

With the lock finished, I mounted the undertail into place on the bike. Once the undertail is fitted, wiring of the lights can take place. The plate lights are a simple parallel circuit, which means wrap all the positives together, all the negatives together, then attach them to the appropriate positive and negative wire on the bike harness.
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Last edited by kwtoxman; 03-27-2013 at 09:40 AM.
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-14-2013, 05:04 PM Thread Starter
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I then tested the LED brightness and here are some pictures. I'm pretty impressed so far. I can't test outdoors, but the lights are quite bright indoors. Here are some attached pics with auto exposure lock to try to demonstrate brightness.

You can see how with the brake on, the LEDs are blowing out the highlights on the camera. The camera in AE lock cannot capture the intensity of the lights. Thus is it blurry. That equals bright!


First pic is brake off,



2nd pic is brake on,



Third pic is signal light.
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Last edited by kwtoxman; 03-27-2013 at 09:42 AM.
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-14-2013, 05:07 PM Thread Starter
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Since LEDs are more directional than standard incandescent bulbs, I took some pictures of the brightness standing up. I'm still notably impressed. Here are some more attached pics with auto exposure lock to try to demonstrate brightness.

These suckers look pretty bright.

First pic is brake off.



2nd pic is brake on.



Third pic is signal light.
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Last edited by kwtoxman; 03-27-2013 at 09:44 AM.
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-14-2013, 05:45 PM Thread Starter
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Here are some general pics of it mounted on the bike. You can see how even at an off angle, with the brake running light (not brake applied), the light is too bright for the camera to capture well. The LEDs end up blurry.







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Last edited by kwtoxman; 03-27-2013 at 09:45 AM.
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-14-2013, 05:48 PM Thread Starter
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Here are a few pics showing the fit overall. Not perfect. But pretty good.







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Last edited by kwtoxman; 03-27-2013 at 09:47 AM.
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-14-2013, 09:28 PM
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I have the same undertail and Im not crazy about the organization of the electrical bits. Can you post pics of yours? Specifically the battery, rectifier, tos, etc?
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