Rear shock question - Honda RC51 Forum : RC51 Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-15-2012, 08:34 PM Thread Starter
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Rear shock question

Hey guys just wondering if I can get some help.

Changing the rear shock on my RC to an Ohlins, so I have an install question for the guys that have done it already.

Been a long time since I have changed a rear shock so what I'm asking for is a few pointers.

I have all bolts loosened and I was going to remove but I just want to make sure of a couple of things.

1. Rear wheel is off
2. All bolts loosened
3. On my lift very secure

Now here's my questions, will the shock come out the bottom or the top? I'm thinking bottom.

I have the swing arm supported and a jack under the motor.

Remove the link and dog bones? When I remove the rest of the bolts the bike will not just collapse if I have the front fully secure, the shock out and a jack under the motor and the swing arm still in the swing arm stand?

Do I need to support the bike anywhere else? I'm looking at it and all things point to no? But any answers will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for the help in advance



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post #2 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-15-2012, 09:08 PM
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On an SP2, the shock comes out the left side due to the ECU well on the right.

If you have aftermarket rearsets, you could support the bike using jack stands under the pegs, or a steel rod or rebar through the swingarm bolt supported by jack stands.
What I did was buy a paddock stand that supported the bike via the swingarm pivot bolt.

You should only need to remove the lower shock mount bolt and possibly the lower link bolt that connects to the dog bone for added clearance.


Then remove the upper shock bolt and pull the shock out the left, rotating to clear the reservoir.


Then reverse the process when installing the Ohlins shock, then route the hydraulic preload adjuster and hose to the right passenger peg mount/exhaust hanger.

Last edited by SubSailor; 04-15-2012 at 09:16 PM.
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post #3 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-15-2012, 09:50 PM Thread Starter
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Sounds good, great pics and thanks for the speedy reply.



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post #4 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-15-2012, 10:54 PM
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Nice! I should be doing mine Wednesday or Thursday this week

2001 #62. Ohlins rear/valves, Micron high mount, HyperPro damper, SharkSkinz, Tyga billet triple clamp, Tyga Carbon Fiber fender and hugger, Ti bolt/custom subframe/alien motion 8 cell diet, 15/41 520, COP conv. PCIII, Venhill lines, modified air box, turn signals in headlights...<deep breath> ZG Touring windscreen, Tech G rear sets, CRF450 rear master w/HRC cover, Tokico 6 pots w/V-pads, CRG Bar end mirrors, PSR Shorty levers-use only clutch, wanna-be basic racer paint, Roman Gold PC wheels
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post #5 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-16-2012, 08:46 AM
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Do you have an SP1 or SP2? The SP2 comes out the left, SP1 the right. According to the manual anyways.

I always use the front stand on my bike along with the rear stand for the swingarm and a jack under the engine. The nice thing about using a jack instead of the rear sets is that you can adjust it up or down to line the bolts up, makes it much easier. You don't need to pull the tire off either. There is no need.

If you are replacing the link, you can pull the link and shock as one. At least on an SP2 you can. If you don't want to do that, the easiest way to get it out is to remove the bolts on the link (the two that attach to the swingarm and linkage coming off the frame) and then push the bottom part of the shock forward, as this will allow you to remove the lower bolt on the shock and pull it out just above the header. I usually pull the right side exhaust or both, as it gives you more room and makes things easier.

Make sure you take your time and be careful, especially if you don't have a front stand. The entire weight of the bike will be sitting on two points (the jack and the front tire) if you don't have a front stand. This means the bike can easily fall over.

Put some grease on the bolts, and clean them off if they are corroded. The first time I pulled mine, they were stuck badly and I had to beat them out (that is how I learned you can pull the shock and link as one).




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post #6 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-16-2012, 02:17 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks b.miller its an SP2, I will probably do your method as I've done it before like that.

I have a mc lift with a wheel chock, its tied down on the front solid.



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post #7 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-16-2012, 09:31 PM
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Yeah, I really need to get something like the baxley. Would make a lot of things easier.




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post #8 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 12:32 AM
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EZ-Rizer Red model with V-Twin front mount situated under front exhaust outlet above starter motor and the multi-mount "wide cradle" mounted under the rear exhaust header, along with anchoring the kickstand. Allowed easy removal of stock shock out the left side for SP-2 and swift removal of dogbone link for the Kyle replacement. Used front (under steering triple clamp bottom hole spindle type) and rear Woodcraft stands to get "Red" situated up for the first time. Impressive amount of room to work on stuff.
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post #9 of 29 (permalink) Old 05-03-2012, 04:32 PM
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How'd it go?

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post #10 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-10-2013, 06:57 PM
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When removing the rear shock, do you have the bike on front and rear stand and a jack under the engine case? Have honda service manuel but have never replaced a rear shock.
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