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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-07-2012, 12:42 PM Thread Starter
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Front Sag

So with my front pretensionors turned all the way in I get about 40mm of sag I weigh about 180lb is that amount of sag normal for stock forks? I thought you want sag to be around 30mm-35mm.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-07-2012, 02:30 PM
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You want the sag set to 38-40mm in front. Having to dial the preload all the way to the max just to barely get those numbers is bad because you are squishing out most of the linear travel of the spring putting you much closer to the progressive area at the end of the stroke.

Ultimately the OEM forks have a lot of potential in them, but they are downright shitty as they are delivered from the factory. With a little massaging of the valve stack & top out springs & changing the spring rates etc you can get them to work very well.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-07-2012, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by LDH® View Post
You want the sag set to 38-40mm in front. Having to dial the preload all the way to the max just to barely get those numbers is bad because you are squishing out most of the linear travel of the spring putting you much closer to the progressive area at the end of the stroke.

Ultimately the OEM forks have a lot of potential in them, but they are downright shitty as they are delivered from the factory. With a little massaging of the valve stack & top out springs & changing the spring rates etc you can get them to work very well.
I concur....different bike with reworked forks.



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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-07-2012, 09:57 PM Thread Starter
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You want the sag set to 38-40mm in front. Having to dial the preload all the way to the max just to barely get those numbers is bad because you are squishing out most of the linear travel of the spring putting you much closer to the progressive area at the end of the stroke.

Ultimately the OEM forks have a lot of potential in them, but they are downright shitty as they are delivered from the factory. With a little massaging of the valve stack & top out springs & changing the spring rates etc you can get them to work very well.
Yea imagined turning the preload all the way in is bogus. Hey didn't the Rc51 Rogue site used to have a spread sheet of members preferred suspension settings. I was looking for some direction. For now I've got my suspension set at factory standard position. I don't know if its normal a good thing or a bad thing; I have realized if I crack the throttle when I hit a good bump say like the ruts you hit when crossing a intersection the whole bike goes airborn. Its kind of fun, but I would think the bike should cruise through bumps alittle better then that
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-07-2012, 11:36 PM
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Yes...LDH nailed it.

Changing my front springs/seals and fluid to 1.0 Racetechs ( for my body weight ) was the first thing I did...then sag set it to 38mm when the fork oil was warm. It smoothed it out a lot.

Also riders that have too much sag in the front will lose stability as it changes the trail. I had too much and my front end wanted to push or tuck....tried cranking the preloads almost all the way in so total sag was okay...but then it felt like a pogo stick on the bumps and would kick off. Now she dances.

Before riders buy carbon this and that...a fork/shock rebuild is the first thing to do.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-08-2012, 10:12 AM Thread Starter
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Yes LDH is the man, 'rc51 crazy' sounds like you were in the same boat as me when you had factory susp. my bike definity kicks off the bumps like you discribed. I guess I will have to deal with it or start spending more money. Its my second summer on the RC before that my last bike was a 2001 GSXR 600 back in 01 so its been ten years out of the saddle. I am just starting to get a feel for the RC. I really regret buying my used Galfer fr. rotors for $300 turns out they pulsate and its to late to make a pay pal claim.
The money would have been better spent on redoing the forks.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-08-2012, 11:04 AM
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Ya...Galfer...thin and wavy...all looks no function. The rotors you want are Brembro's. $500 pair.
I have EBC Contours and they could be better. Keep the rotors round and drilled...not wavy because you lose stopping power.

When you have some cash give Kyle Racing a call.
If you ship him your forks, he will put new Springs and Ohlins internals set up for your weight and riding style. Don't forget new fork seals. They charge $650. It sounds like a lot -but it is not really that much considering what you get.

The rear shock linkage and valving could be better too. The RC uses a progressive shock link instead of a linear one. So it's smooth until you hit a hard bump then it's harsh. Kyle sells a better link for around $350 or if you're loaded you can add a new Ohlins shock too for another $1000.

The newer more modern liter bikes are closer to this configuration and less harsh...but they certainly don't have the soul nor the sound of the RC.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-08-2012, 01:06 PM Thread Starter
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^ I had EBC Contours too along with EBC HH pads. My first time out on them and the rotors were destroyed very badly grooved up they didn't break in to well!! I was considering buying the rear link, but I figure its not worth putting a link on a OEM shock. What do you think?
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-08-2012, 02:03 PM
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Yep...my EBC rotors are wearing really fast too with grooves and all... I won't buy them again. I heard riders rave about their HH pads. So, I bought a pair and was not impressed either. I made a bad call on my brake set-up. I am reverting back to stock. Honda rotors are very good.

The rear link depends on your weight. I've been told heavier riders ( 220 lbs+) are okay with the stock link but the spring is too light. I was 220 now 210 and I am okay with it. I do however have the preload at ramp #7 with sag at 25mm, ( like stiffer shocks for feel) So, obviously the spring is too weak.

Since I have spent so much stupid money on my bikes, I would do it right-
I would drop the $1299 on the Ohlins shock/ DK link kit and have them spec it out just for you. Then, if I sold the RC, I would pull it off and sell it separately.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-08-2012, 02:15 PM
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Here's an article I wrote about the brake pads and some of it centers on the EBC stuff

http://www.rc51.org/hrcpad.htm

Another semi-new piece of info we are starting to get from multiple sources is that the EBC contour rotors are just shit... They come so poorly manufactured that the slots or holes in the rotors have edges like razor blades that just eat the pad compounds up at a crazy fast rate until the edges have been worn down. One guy claimed he payed like $115 per rotor or something like that on clearance, but when it comes to performance parts for sportbikes all too often you do get what you pay for. There is a reason why some EBC rotors sell for $115 and Brembo HP rotors are $330 each

As for the suspension link I wrote up a brief article on that too

http://www.rc51.org/link.htm
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