First, download the service manual and review the fork disassembly steps.
The service manual primarily shows SP1 fork service steps.
You might need a cartridge holding tool to keep the cartridge from rotating while loosening the bolt at the base of the fork.
Some have had no problems using an impact wrench to loosen the bolt without need of a holding tool.
I used no power tools when I disassembled my forks.
You'll also need to remove the compression adjuster housing bolted on the side of the fork to fully remove the cartridge bolt. Don't lose the two small O-rings when you do this!
Secondly, to remove the rebound valve assembly, you'll have to remove the oil lock piece on the damper rod in order to slide the rebound valve assembly out the bottom of the cartridge to gain access to it.
Lastly, measure the number of turns each rebound adjuster uses for its full travel, from all way out to all way in.
This is so you can preset the rebound adjuster when attaching the adjust case onto the damper rod.
Rotate the rebound adjuster from full out inward the same number of turns it took to reach full CW rebound adjustment, then rotate those number of turns and maintain that point while you gently screw the adjust case onto the damper rod (use my finger tips).
When the adjust case lightly ceases its travel, it's at full rebound. Then tighten the lock nut on the damper rod to secure the adjust case.
You should be able to the back off the one turn as shown in the user manual and it should line up with the punch marks if all goes well.
You don't have to reinstall the oil lock piece, but if you don't, you'll have use oil level to control the max fork travel via the air spring effect.
In that case the oil level without spring and fork fully compressed is 120mm to start.
Last edited by SubSailor; 10-25-2012 at 10:59 AM.