Wheel spacer problem? - Honda RC51 Forum : RC51 Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-02-2013, 07:53 PM Thread Starter
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Wheel spacer problem?

Mounted up front wheel and I pretty sure there shouldn't be a gap between the spacer and the fork leg? Am I wrong?

Initially I couldn't get the left caliper on after tightening down the axle. Mind you these are custom spacers. I loosened the axle and put the caliper on then retightened. I believe this is causing the gap as well as putting undue pressure on the rotor. What am I missing here?

These spacers were cut for an Sp2 front end? Is there a difference between the a 1 & 2 that would cause this?


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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-02-2013, 09:24 PM
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Pictures helps everything when asking these questions....

-2001 Honda RC51 sp1 " Slightly Modified "
-2001 Honda 929RR Erion Edition
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-02-2013, 09:47 PM Thread Starter
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Wheel spacer problem?

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Pictures helps everything when asking these questions....
Lol, yes that would help. Thought I inserted the pic.

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-02-2013, 10:16 PM
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not sure if there is a difference between sp1 and sp2 spacers, but that gap definitely should not be there.. custom cut spacers? the right spacer should be longer than the left, maybe your spacers are the same length?
if for some reason you need the oem spacers for sp2, i can send you the ones sbkdrew sent me the other day.. i found mine right after he shipped em.. lol
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-03-2013, 12:31 AM
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I replied to your PM just now, but I'll post up here since it might help with any confusion that other have with installing the front wheel. If you have any other issues, let me know and I'll help you out. To clear up and confusion, these are custom spacers I made for these wheels to fit the RC51 (they are originally for a CBR929/954).

The SP1 and SP2 both use the same wheel spacers, bearings, axle and center collar (the part that goes in between the bearings inside the wheel)


The procedure for installing the front wheel is as follows:

Take the wheel, put the spacers on and put it in between the forks and slide the axle through.

Install the axle bolt on the right side and torque to 43 ft lbs

Install the axle clamp bolts on the right fork and torque to 16 ft lbs

Install calipers and torque bolts to 22 ft lbs

Put the bike (or at least the front end) down on the ground and hold the brake while pumping the forks down and back up a few times to seat the axle.

Make sure the index line on the left side of the axle is aligned with the outer surface of the fork leg.

Install the axle pinch bolts on the left fork leg and torque to 16 ft lbs.


The reason for "seating" the axle is because the left fork leg basically floats on the axle until the pinch bolts are tightened. This is done to prevent the forks from being pinched or spread at the lower end vs the upper end. If this is not done, there will be additional friction between the fork sliders (chrome part) and the bushings inside of the upper fork due to them not being aligned perfectly. When you bounce the forks, it allows the left fork leg to move to the correct spot on the axle.

When you install the axle bolt on the right leg and torque it down, the thicker portion of the axle (on the left side of the axle) is mated to the left spacer. This means that when you torque it down, all of the spacers and bearings are pulled tight to the right fork. At this time, you can still take the left fork leg and move it back and forth. It looks like there is a gap between the spacer and the fork because there is. The left spacer doesn't sit against the fork, it sits against the thicker portion of the axle. In the picture above, you are seeing the axle in between the spacer and the fork. This creates the illusion that there is a gap. The easiest way to visualize this is the install the axle in the wheel and just the right fork leg (you can spin the bottom of the fork around and put the bolt in and tighten it all up).




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Last edited by b.miller123; 03-03-2013 at 12:34 AM.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-03-2013, 12:40 AM Thread Starter
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Wheel spacer problem?

Thanks for clearing this up.


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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-03-2013, 12:47 AM
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Originally Posted by tactikool View Post
Thanks for clearing this up.


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Do you still have my number? If needed, I can drive down there and help you out. I'm still confused by the caliper not going on part.




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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-03-2013, 12:55 AM Thread Starter
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Wheel spacer problem?

Now that I think back, I believe my issue with the caliper stems from the left side "axle line" not being flush with fork leg. I'm gonna go over the correct procedure tommorrow and I'm thinking this will fix the issue.


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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-03-2013, 02:49 PM
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Keep us posted...... Do the walk through B.miller posted, should line up good.

-2001 Honda RC51 sp1 " Slightly Modified "
-2001 Honda 929RR Erion Edition
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-03-2013, 02:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b.miller123 View Post
I replied to your PM just now, but I'll post up here since it might help with any confusion that other have with installing the front wheel. If you have any other issues, let me know and I'll help you out. To clear up and confusion, these are custom spacers I made for these wheels to fit the RC51 (they are originally for a CBR929/954).

The SP1 and SP2 both use the same wheel spacers, bearings, axle and center collar (the part that goes in between the bearings inside the wheel)


The procedure for installing the front wheel is as follows:

Take the wheel, put the spacers on and put it in between the forks and slide the axle through.

Install the axle bolt on the right side and torque to 43 ft lbs

Install the axle clamp bolts on the right fork and torque to 16 ft lbs

Install calipers and torque bolts to 22 ft lbs

Put the bike (or at least the front end) down on the ground and hold the brake while pumping the forks down and back up a few times to seat the axle.

Make sure the index line on the left side of the axle is aligned with the outer surface of the fork leg.

Install the axle pinch bolts on the left fork leg and torque to 16 ft lbs.


The reason for "seating" the axle is because the left fork leg basically floats on the axle until the pinch bolts are tightened. This is done to prevent the forks from being pinched or spread at the lower end vs the upper end. If this is not done, there will be additional friction between the fork sliders (chrome part) and the bushings inside of the upper fork due to them not being aligned perfectly. When you bounce the forks, it allows the left fork leg to move to the correct spot on the axle.

When you install the axle bolt on the right leg and torque it down, the thicker portion of the axle (on the left side of the axle) is mated to the left spacer. This means that when you torque it down, all of the spacers and bearings are pulled tight to the right fork. At this time, you can still take the left fork leg and move it back and forth. It looks like there is a gap between the spacer and the fork because there is. The left spacer doesn't sit against the fork, it sits against the thicker portion of the axle. In the picture above, you are seeing the axle in between the spacer and the fork. This creates the illusion that there is a gap. The easiest way to visualize this is the install the axle in the wheel and just the right fork leg (you can spin the bottom of the fork around and put the bolt in and tighten it all up).

That should be in the How To's - Proper Installation of Front Wheel/Axle.

Thanks for that well explained procedure b.miller123.

John, 2000 RC51 #000100

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