Found It! I knew I smelled something burning. - Honda RC51 Forum : RC51 Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-22-2013, 06:42 PM Thread Starter
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Found It! I knew I smelled something burning.

So before the warm weather arrives I decided to upgrade my rectifier to the Shindengen FH020AA and top it off with one of those Alien Motion Lithium Batterys. I don't like all the heat that comes from the OEM rectifier and have read how they are prone to failure. So I started having at it and I found at the OEM's stator connector in the tail two of the stator circuits had began to melt along with the connectors! Last summer I thought I could smell an electrical burning coming from with in my tail. It wasn't real strong and I didn't see any problems so I just kept that thought in the back of my head. I took a before voltage reading of where the OEM rectifier was charge at. At idle I have around 14.7 volts seems normal. I checked the three stator circuits for shorts to ground all were at 0 ohms so thats good. I'm hoping that their was just some resistance in the connecter (e.g. corrosion) that created heat and gradually got worse over the years. What do you guys think? I don't want to install this new rectifier and rect-i-FRY! it
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-23-2013, 01:46 AM
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Have a very good charged battery.
Start the bike and disconnect that white plug.
Use your A.C. Voltmeter and measure the 3 yellow wires by pairs.
At idle they should give you 12-14V A.C. and near 4000rpm about 40V or so.
If that is the case in all 3 pairs then your stator is fine.
Alternatively you can measure Ohm resistance between each of the 3 yellow pair of wires.
It should be 0.2-0.5 Ohm at room temp


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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-24-2013, 02:27 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice Makis. I will check it out mabe not today though. Right now its 30 degrees F out here in Ohio.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-24-2013, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by MakisRC51 View Post
Have a very good charged battery.
Start the bike and disconnect that white plug.
Use your A.C. Voltmeter and measure the 3 yellow wires by pairs.
At idle they should give you 12-14V A.C. and near 4000rpm about 40V or so.
If that is the case in all 3 pairs then your stator is fine.
Alternatively you can measure Ohm resistance between each of the 3 yellow pair of wires.
It should be 0.2-0.5 Ohm at room temp
Also as you check each phase of the stator (yellow wires) make sure none has fine to ground. Check the yellow wires to the engine case or other suitable ground there should be no resistance or what you could also call an open circuit.



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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-24-2013, 04:02 PM
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..... there should be no resistance or what you could also call an open circuit.
Infinite resistance = open circuit
No resistance = closed circuit

I know you meant the first

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Originally Posted by Tommysixgun View Post
...... I checked the three stator circuits for shorts to ground all were at 0 ohms so thats good......
Just noticed that:

Zero Ohms means NO resistance. That means the stator's coil is shorted and is no longer insulated against the engine cases (-).

I hope you mean infinite resistance and not zero resistance...

If you take a circuit tester



grab the clamp on the battery's positive terminal and stick it in each one of the yellow wires that come from the engine, does it light up?


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Last edited by MakisRC51; 03-24-2013 at 04:08 PM.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-24-2013, 05:31 PM
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Yes thanks Makis I always screw the terminology up...but I know what I'm doing when I test it! Yes a test light is a must.



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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-25-2013, 09:14 AM
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this happened to me recently but my plug completely fried. i just sniped and put on some butt connectors. haven't had a problem since then.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-25-2013, 11:21 AM
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Found It! I knew I smelled something burning.

There has to be a reason for the insulation deterioration. i.e. over current surge, age, etc....


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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-25-2013, 02:52 PM
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Get your electrical problems sorted out before spending money on a battery (as long as your current one is working anyways). The lithium batteries will amplify any of your current issues, and will only make it more expensive to fix when the battery gets fried too. So if your R/R is bad, you'll find out when your battery starts smoking.


I know that we all have our opinions when it comes to the new lithium batteries, so here's mine: Don't waste your time and money with the a123 based batteries. They are all essentially the same thing in different packaging.

Shorai is the only company using their own prismatic cells. I've been happy with my Shorai, and have seen enough of the failures of the a123 based batteries to stay away from them. And don't buy a full spectrum battery. The owner of that company was a distributor for speedcell (one of, if not the first company that started making these a123 cell based batteries for motorsports) and started selling batteries under that name without permission. He eventually was sued (by the actual owner of the speedcell name who he was stealing from) and had to change the name to full spectrum.




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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-25-2013, 02:54 PM
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Oh, and next time you smell something burning, you should probably find the source and not just keep riding. Your battery could have easily gone up in flames and spilled shit all over your bike.

Sorry for the lecture.




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