Clutch pull issue - Honda RC51 Forum : RC51 Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-17-2013, 11:01 AM Thread Starter
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Clutch pull issue

So I did some searching--seems most people have the clutch engaging at the END of the lever as its 90% out. Well, mine is opposite. Fluid is fine. What else could it be? Still a bubble in there? Problem is....im at work 60 miles from home with the bike... I have a hair trigger that disengages the clutch like 2mm after I start releasing the lever.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-17-2013, 12:09 PM
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Sounds like you may have air in the system.
Just like many others, my clutch engages towards the end of its travel.
Often, the air collects at the upper end of the fitting where the banjo bolt meets the master cylinder.
We have had at least two members here who (after repeated unsuccessful attempts to bleed air out of the line) have slightly loosened the banjo bolt while squeezing the lever and had air escape (of course, quickly tightening the bolt after bleeding), then reporting a nice firm action with correct operation.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-17-2013, 12:31 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, i'll give all that a shot. I don't see any fluid leaking--so I suspect a bubble rather than a bad seal. Hopefully it'll make it home...its engaging closer and closer to the end of the travel.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-17-2013, 02:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SubSailor View Post
Sounds like you may have air in the system.
Just like many others, my clutch engages towards the end of its travel.
Often, the air collects at the upper end of the fitting where the banjo bolt meets the master cylinder.
We have had at least two members here who (after repeated unsuccessful attempts to bleed air out of the line) have slightly loosened the banjo bolt while squeezing the lever and had air escape (of course, quickly tightening the bolt after bleeding), then reporting a nice firm action with correct operation.
That's the way I always do mine now, as I found it far easier to bleed using this method.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-18-2013, 10:41 AM
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When did you last flush the fluid? I know you said the fluid was fine, but if you've never had the slave cylinder off to inspect, you could have a problem with crud in there. Flushing doesn't always get that stuff out cause it settles to the bottom and the bleeder valve is at the top.

If the banjo bleed doesn't do the trick, consider taking the master & slave cylinder apart for inspection.
What you describe happened to me, to the point the clutch wouldn't disengage at all. The sludge you see in the slave cylinder was also in the master cylinder and piston and gumming it up too.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-18-2013, 07:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SubSailor View Post
Sounds like you may have air in the system.
Just like many others, my clutch engages towards the end of its travel.
Often, the air collects at the upper end of the fitting where the banjo bolt meets the master cylinder.
We have had at least two members here who (after repeated unsuccessful attempts to bleed air out of the line) have slightly loosened the banjo bolt while squeezing the lever and had air escape (of course, quickly tightening the bolt after bleeding), then reporting a nice firm action with correct operation.
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Originally Posted by SP1 Jock View Post
That's the way I always do mine now, as I found it far easier to bleed using this method.
This was my problem too. Immediately fixed it after I bled the air from the banjo bolt.

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Originally Posted by jondog9 View Post
When did you last flush the fluid? I know you said the fluid was fine, but if you've never had the slave cylinder off to inspect, you could have a problem with crud in there. Flushing doesn't always get that stuff out cause it settles to the bottom and the bleeder valve is at the top.

If the banjo bleed doesn't do the trick, consider taking the master & slave cylinder apart for inspection.
What you describe happened to me, to the point the clutch wouldn't disengage at all. The sludge you see in the slave cylinder was also in the master cylinder and piston and gumming it up too.
Don't listen to this guy. He's whacko

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-18-2013, 10:28 PM
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Don't listen to this guy. He's whacko
Says the guy who works all night and stays up all day.

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-19-2013, 10:27 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all your help guys. Turns out it was the slave. THe fluid looked fine, in the fact that I thought the reservoir was full. It looked like it..but wasn't. I didn't want to touch ANYTHING until I made it home.

When I got home, the reservoir was empty. Fluid definitely dirty. It leaked around the slave gasket. I ordered a new slave (used) and gasket. That will need to be replaced. One question--Does that pushrod just fall out? I know theres usually a ball behind it. Im worried that will dislodge and cause problems. Can I just pull the slave off?
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-19-2013, 11:28 AM
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My opinion, you should just pull your slave cylinder off and order new cups and gasket. They're very cheap.
I wouldn't just slap another used one on, it needs to be inspected for the condition of the rubber bits. Same as your existing one. So why buy another used one?

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....p?make=hondamc
part # 6, 9 was all I needed for the slave.

Since you're into it this far, I would look at the master too.
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....p?make=hondamc
part #3.

Use DOT4 brake fluid.

That rod; don't pull it all the way out. It slid out about an inch or two on me, I just pushed it back in.

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-19-2013, 11:55 AM Thread Starter
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Great. Well, the used one I bought looks mint, and it was only 20 on ebay--I figured what the hell..

I'll check the master too I suppose.
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