First of all, you need to check the basics:
Tire pressure, condition, type? Are you over-riding a set of ten year old, bald, flat tires?
Set your sag (impossible on stock spring rates with your weight and the top out springs in the front)
When was the last time any of the suspension was serviced?
Make sure your geometry isn't all crazy.
Make sure your settings aren't all crazy.
For these last two, look here for a good starting point: http://www.sportrider.com/suspension...ngs/honda.html
motorcycle issue front preload front rebound damping front comp. damping rear preload rear rebound damping rear comp. damping
RC51 ('00) 10/00 1 line showing 6 clicks out 15 clicks out position 4 of 9 2 turns out 14 clicks out
note: set fork tube height to 16mm above top triple clamp, with Dunlop D207 GP Star tires
RC51 ('00) 12/00 3 lines showing 9 clicks out 16 clicks out position 4 of 9 1.25 turns out 15 clicks out
note: set fork tube height to 13mm above top triple clamp, with Metzeler Rennsport tires
RC51 ('02) 10/02 4 turns out 2 turns out 8 clicks out position 5 of 8 1 turn out 6 clicks out
note: set fork tube height to 1 line showing above top triple clamp, with Dunlop D208GP tires fitted
Once that is done, then it is on to tuning. The above settings are a good place to start and are not the end-all-be-all. If you aren't comfortable with doing the tuning yourself, get to a suspension guy and talk it over with him. You local trackday and race orgs will probably have info on who in your area is recommended. Some have shops with normal hours, some only go to the tracks on the weekends and have minimal regular hours. When you go to them, explain your problems and let them tell you their recommendations. Ask what they are doing and why. Don't be surprised when they tell you it will take some money to get your bike handling right with aftermarket components. Don't expect them to perform the impossible with stock stuff.
Honestly, I don't see how the rear can be stepping out at the beginning of the turn unless you are talking about while braking. (the rear gets light under hard braking and will wander) Unless you are riding somewhere that is really bumpy and the rear shock can't handle it or is pre-loaded to the moon. At the apex, your front should be starting to get light anyways as you should be on the gas before you hit the apex of the corner.
General consensus as to which end needs adjusting/work:
Beginning of turn, from the first moment of braking to the apex: Front suspension
After apex all the way to completely straight up: Rear suspension
From what little experience I have with four-wheeled nonsense, my impression of "loose" and "tight" were different. Loose meant the vehicle would over-steer (back end coming around, turning too much), and tight was under-steer (front end was pushing to the outside, refusing to turn)