Recurring Code 1 - Honda RC51 Forum : RC51 Motorcycle Forums
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-27-2013, 01:43 PM Thread Starter
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Recurring Code 1

Going to go look again at my MAP wiring and connector. On longer trips that get bumpy, my FI light eventually comes on.
Stop the engine, and upon restart, the light stays off till I hit some little bumps. Then it stays on till I shut the bike off again.
Bike runs fine but this has happened a few times now recently, it's always the same code.
I've had the connector apart, cleaned and dielectric grease. But it's come back now.

Does anyone know what the ECU does when it doesn't receive the normal signal from the MAP? I'm assuming some kind of an assigned value?

John, 2000 RC51 #000100

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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-27-2013, 10:58 PM
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Did you do the same for the ECU? The connectors are notorious on the SP 1s of coming loose.



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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-27-2013, 11:14 PM
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The ECU has a default value for many of its non-fatal sensors that it uses if the sensor dies.
It uses this value in its calculations as a "get home" mode. Not perfect, but it will get you home.
These non-fatal sensors mean that if the sensor fails or no output occurs, the engine will still run, albeit not perfectly.
For sensors that are the fatal type (pulse generator, cam position, etc.), if there is no output from them, the engine quits running until repaired.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-27-2013, 11:56 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks SubSailor. I'm starting to think maybe my MAP sensor is kicking out on me on sharp bumps. I've softened the preload one more click to help with that, and the ECU and PC is strapped down good.

Madbuyer, I've already gone thru all the connectors on my bike, except a few like the injector connectors and a couple others that are buried deep.

I dug down to the MAP sensor today, connector slid apart nice and smooth, dielectric grease still healthy from last time. the connector looked clean, so replugged it, and put it back together. Checked vacuum hoses with my Mighty Vac, inspected the wiring, and finally checked voltage across the wires per svc manual.
Erased codes, and got a clean slate now. Did some cleaning up of wiring routing, eased the tank down, and rode her around a bit on some bumpy roads. No codes yet.

John, 2000 RC51 #000100

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-28-2013, 12:06 AM
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I also got that stupid code by not getting a solid connection on the TA sensor on top of the air box.



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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-28-2013, 12:12 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah, I get that every time i unplug the air box top. But that's a code 9. I also got a couple code 8's. Throttle position sensor. same thing, unplugged connectors, checked wires, lube, reconnect, fine.

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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-28-2013, 12:15 PM
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The MAP and BARO sensors are the same part number.
Try swapping the sensors and see if your code shifts over to the BARO sensor on the snorkel.
If the MAP sensor was faulty internally, the problem should now be reported for the BARO sensor.
If the problem continues to report for the MAP sensor, then it's wiring and not the sensor.
Also, make sure you don't have a leaky hose leading to the MAP sensor.
There are T-fittings and sections of hose that make up the path to the MAP sensor.

Last edited by SubSailor; 05-28-2013 at 12:19 PM.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-28-2013, 04:57 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SubSailor View Post
The MAP and BARO sensors are the same part number.
Try swapping the sensors and see if your code shifts over to the BARO sensor on the snorkel.
If the MAP sensor was faulty internally, the problem should now be reported for the BARO sensor.
If the problem continues to report for the MAP sensor, then it's wiring and not the sensor.
Also, make sure you don't have a leaky hose leading to the MAP sensor.
There are T-fittings and sections of hose that make up the path to the MAP sensor.
Checked all related vac hoses with the mighty vac. they all checked out with 25 hg.
Golf tees make great plugs for vac hoses, so you can test a small system with t's and all.

Good tip about switching sensors. If the code comes back again, I'll swap them like you said. Getting fairly quick at removing and replacing the airbox.

John, 2000 RC51 #000100

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