Blown fuse? While gettin' on it?? - Honda RC51 Forum : RC51 Motorcycle Forums
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-29-2013, 10:36 PM Thread Starter
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Blown fuse? While gettin' on it??

Just got off the bike, so haven't even looked into it yet, but ...

... Leaving from a stop sign, nailed it pretty hard ... and the friggin headlight went out.

Next I notice the front running lights are out, too ... but the turn signals work.

Yet, high beam still works and rear running lights are on. Had to ride home blinding everybody with my high beam. DAMMIT.

Any ideas?

I guess I need to get familiar with the wiring diagram ... and check fuses. Hoping (I guess) it's a blown fuse and not a burnt out headlight ... well, actually maybe a burnt out headlight would be better news; I dunno.

Could hard acceleration / higher RPM blow a fuse???
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-30-2013, 12:08 AM
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To me it sounds like a headlight. I've had the headlight fuse pop. With that the bike won't even start.

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-30-2013, 12:10 AM
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Step 1 check headlight bulb for smoked glass. If so bulb is burnt out. Next check fuses.

Heavy acceleration does not cause fuses or lights to fail. If your blowing fuses there is a short in your wiring.

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-30-2013, 07:53 AM
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If you blew a fuse, both headlights would be out, not just low beam.
So it sounds like a bulb popped.

The turn signals, brake light, and horn are protected by 10A fuse D in the fuse box.
If everything beside the signals work, then it's most likely a wiring issue.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-30-2013, 10:51 AM Thread Starter
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OK, figured it out ... but still have a question.

So ... the friggin' wiring connector had popped off the back of the bulb

And so I popped it back on ... except ... there are no tabs or catches to hold it in place It was apparently being held on only by friction ... and that friction was overcome during hard acceleration. What the ???

It doesn't look like anybody had ever modified the housing or anything, but so far I see nothing even remotely looking like a catch to hold the connector.

So the question ... Aren't the turn signal lights supposed to be on as 'running lights' the entire time the ignition is on? Mine are on at the rear, but the fronts aren't. The only light up front at night is the headlight ... whenever the connector decides to stay on.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-30-2013, 05:00 PM
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Yes, there are running lights for the front signals.
The OEM signals lights have a lower wattage filament for running lights and higher wattage filament for signals.
If you have aftermarket LED front lights, they may not have a separate LED for signals.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-30-2013, 05:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SubSailor View Post
Yes, there are running lights for the front signals.
The OEM signals lights have a lower wattage filament for running lights and higher wattage filament for signals.
If you have aftermarket LED front lights, they may not have a separate LED for signals.
Just to expand on this a little bit, it's what is meant by 3 wire signal lights. OEM's are 3 wire, while the cheaper aftermarket front sig's are 2 wire.
If you have aftermarket signals, aka flushmounts, look to see if they have 2 or 3 wires coming from the light. If you indeed have 3 wires, and they're hooked up correctly, you always have running lights, whether LED or conventional Filament.

My high-beam plug is always trying to jiggle off the connector too.

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-30-2013, 07:26 PM
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Use a hot glue gun and place a dab of glue where the connector connects to the prongs. Stays on unless you want to remove it. Problem solved

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-30-2013, 11:26 PM Thread Starter
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Excellent. Thanks everybody.

I do have flush mounts, and they could surely be cheap-o's. Will check for 2 or 3 wires.

And thanks for the hot glue gun idea ... Kind of alarming to be hammerin' it at night and suddenly you're haulin' ass in pitch darkness
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-01-2013, 03:06 PM Thread Starter
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Just an FYI - I ended up using a pair of needle nose pliers to very slightly squeeze each of the two female spade connectors inside the plastic headlight wiring connector. The connector is now held much more securely to the headlight's two spades; it actually takes some effort to pull the connector off.

Went ahead and did the high beam while I was at it, since as soon as I barely tugged it, it also slipped right off.
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