Before paying a load of cash on anything, I would try changing the final drive's ratio.
Depending on your surroundings you could try a +2 teeth on the rear sprocket or a -1 on the front, which equals to almost +3 to the rear sprocket.
For example, guys around here are happy with -1 F and +1 rear. That's like keeping the 16T front and changing the rear to a +4.
Well, that didn't work for me at all.
After 3 different combinations, I finally found that 15T (-1) front and 39T (-1) rear is the optimal ratio for me.
I guess if I was enforced to follow the speed limits, I would also stay with the 15T front and 41T which is what almost everyone recommends in this forum.
But I don't have to follow the speed limits.....so I adjusted the bike to what I can get.
You could try a 42T rear for starters and if the glitch persists then you have to get yourself a Power Commander III USB and have it properly mapped for your bike.
Not that a Power Commander III USB isn't essential for the RC, but just an advice to limit your costs to what you need at the moment.
I think it depends on what exhaust you have. OEM mufflers or something else?
You might look to see how much clearance you have at your rear axle adjusting bolts on your swingarm. A 42 tooth will bring the axle and rear tire closer to the front of the swinger. Easily solved by adding a link to the chain, or cutting a new chain to the right length.
I like 15/42 and don't care much for speed limits, but for me it's more about acceleration and response than top speed and I rarely pay heed to the speedometer (which is corrected with a speedo-healer). Much above 140-150 mph is pointless, as there are other vehicles on the road going a lot slower. So may as well maximise acceleration. 15/42 is OK for cruising at legal speeds too - it's a good happy medium. We put 15/43 on Carlos' project bike and it's nice gearing too. It'll stay that way till his chain & sprockets wear out, I suspect.
But if you don't have a power commander, then you'd probably be better off with one than without, especially if your exhausts are not originals.
Euro RC51 SP2: HRC WSB Ti Hi-Level, T1 Airbox & Snorkel, PCIII, Dymag CA5 Carbon Wheels, Ti64 Spindles (F, R & Swing Arm), Mori Link, Maxton GP7 Shock & Ohlins 832 Forks, Brembo GP Calipers & SBK narrow track (F), Braketech Disc (R), Brembo billet Underslung x 2 Brembo RCS, Tyga Triple, 7075 Stem, Probolt Titanium all over, Babyface rearsets, MR Complete Carbon Lineup, Custom Undertail & CBR 1000 LED, Watsen LED Indicators, Harris Brace, Giles clip-ons, Corbin seat, etc. 2013 BOTY.
Hi, thanks guys. I'm trying to keep the bike as standard as possible. I have race cans for it,but the police round here are petty hot. I don't want 3 points on my license. So it looks like the sprocket option...
+1 - Well said. Just bear in mind there's nothin actually wrong with your RC mate, theyre all like that. Mine was even a little snatchy when I had the sprocket mod. It's a race bike and likes to be rev'd. Don't worry, it'll smooth out when your hammering it