Fuel pump stopped priming - Honda RC51 Forum : RC51 Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-30-2014, 01:21 AM Thread Starter
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Fuel pump stopped priming

So everything was fine, and last week decided to take it for a ride. After a lunch stop, it wouldn't start...killed battery too while at it. Checked fuses, gas, etc...after getting a jump still nothing. Played with kill switch and finally it primed. Rode home fine. Next day tried and no start. I had another switch laying around and tried that and same effect no start. I checked the relays by plugging them to headlight relay and all did what it was suppose to. I tried the Bank angle and seem to do its job when I tilt it doesn't activate relays. I've hooked the fuel pump direct to battery and primed with green/brown combo. What else am I missing to test?


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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-30-2014, 01:46 AM
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Check out the ignition switch. Sometimes they can start acting goofy because of slight corrosion on the contacts inside.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-30-2014, 04:55 PM
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The relays fail intermittently. knock em about and they work again, a couple times then fail again. Both the BA and fuel relay have to be good for the pump to prime.
Switching the kill switch on and off can trigger the relay to kick back to life. Temporarily. Like when you were able to ride home, then no start the next day.
I would advise to buy two or three new OEM relays as known good relays. It seems like all three of my original factory relays, Fuel, BankAngle, Highbeam, all failed within a few months of each other.

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-31-2014, 03:55 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, I'll look into getting new relays. So even when I tested the relays against the headlight and both switched the highbeam it still could be faulty?
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-31-2014, 04:07 PM
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Maybe, but it's a chance. both of those relays have to work to get the pump to prime.
But if you jump the relay and power the pump, it works fine? Will it start then?
If not, and you know bank angle is working correctly, then maybe kickstand switch. Try in nuetral, clutch pulled in, and kickstand firmly up. I've lightly banged my stand against the stop when I doubted that switch before. Lightly.
If all that checks out, I'm out of ideas...

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-31-2014, 04:30 PM Thread Starter
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Yup, it starts when I bypass the relays and go directly to battery. I play with the kickstand switch and see. My tests have been kickstand down and bike in neutral. I'll check when I get back in town. Thanks!
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-31-2014, 04:43 PM
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Use your high beams relay and use it instead of the fuel pump's and see if your fuel pump's relay is fried


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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-11-2014, 01:19 PM Thread Starter
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Finally got a chance to retest. Tetsted all relays against the "highbeam" and one was sketchy, sometimes it clicked on, sometimes it didn't. I put three known working ones in the back harness and fuel primes again! Ordered new relays and keeping one for a spare. Thanks!
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-11-2014, 02:27 PM
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While you're working with electrical components, be sure and place a dab of dielectric tuneup grease on the contacts.
Prevents corrosion from moisture, which can also lead to electrical problems.
Also makes the connectors easier to pull apart as well.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-21-2014, 06:24 PM
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Tank might not be venting properly and pump hydrolocked. I have a vortex cap and mine did a similar thing. Then I figured out that the cap was waaaay harder to take off than when I put it on. I was putting it on too tight n the pump locked

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