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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-21-2014, 11:06 AM Thread Starter
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Stuck threads, need advice

Hi everyone,

I have the classic "how the eff" question for stubborn threads, hoping our experts here can give me pointers on how they got them loose.

First one is the forward screw on the throttle tube housing, I was gonna install my shiny new HRC throttle tube. The one screw came out without a fight, the second screw would rather sacrifice itself than be removed from its home. I tried every screwdriver that would fit (both phillips and flat-head), tried tapping on said screwdrivers to get the threads to loosen, tried anti-sieze spray, etc etc etc. Nevertheless, it ain't comin out. I'm afraid the only way to back it out will be to use a Dremel to cut a wide groove and use a big screwdriver. Any ideas? This is the screw I mean:
[IMG][/IMG]


The second problem is with the rear caliper. I just wanted to replace the pads, but I can't get the mounting pin out. Service manual says that the thing that looks like a shallow flat-head screw is a plug. How's it come out? Sounds dumb, I know, but I even had a wrench on the screwdriver, and still couldn't back it out. Either I'm making some dumb mistake, or that plug is good n' frozen.
Here's what I mean:
[IMG][/IMG]


Any advice is appreciated, thanks guys!

2006 Black Edition SP2
- Stickerless black...giggity
- Assorted stone chips
- Multicolor bug splats, updated weekly
- Custom boot scratches and crash marks on the tailpiece
- Scuffed bar weights & brake lever from asphalt acrobatics
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- Leo Vince exhaust
- Otherwise OEM, not gonna make BOTY any time soon


HOE-LEE SHEE-YIT, the TORQUE!!!

Last edited by BTF/PTM; 09-21-2014 at 11:24 AM.
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-21-2014, 11:18 AM
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for the twist grip housing screw use a pin punch (or an old 3/8 extension) and give it a good sharp hit with a hammer on the top of the screw, this will do two things, the first being to hopefully break the thread to loosen up, the second making your cross head screwdriver be a nice snug fit again
tap the screwdriver into the screw and if it a nice tight fit start to put a bit of strength into turning it whilst hitting the screwdriver with a hammer
Yes i know you can use an impact driver but they lack the feel of my method, i have seen (and repaired) many broken things that people have attempted to undo with an impact driver.
The same method will work on the rear caliper, just make sure you have a good fitting screwdriver
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-21-2014, 11:54 AM
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I always use an impact driver, if you don't twist it while you hit it less things break, let it do it's job... Saved my life a million times especially on older bikes that use phillips to hold the cases together...

If it is really stuck, I hold the ball end of a ball peen hammer against the screw and hit the back of the hammer with another hammer.... then try again with the impact driver...

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Last edited by nissanztt; 09-21-2014 at 11:58 AM.
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-21-2014, 12:38 PM
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Once fixed, jis screwdrivers as mentioned in the great tool thread for anything philips.
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-21-2014, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by nissanztt View Post
I always use an impact driver, if you don't twist it while you hit it less things break, let it do it's job... Saved my life a million times especially on older bikes that use phillips to hold the cases together...

If it is really stuck, I hold the ball end of a ball peen hammer against the screw and hit the back of the hammer with another hammer.... then try again with the impact driver...

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....roup_ID=674820
You should never hit a hammer with another hammer ball pein or otherwise
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-21-2014, 01:14 PM
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I'd try tightening the screw first, other than that its an impact driver I'd be looking at using, usually brute force and ignorance can be your freind
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-21-2014, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by dansp1 View Post
You should never hit a hammer with another hammer ball pein or otherwise
meh...

http://mythbustersresults.com/episode67

If two hammers strike each other, at least one of them will completely shatter with lethal force.
BUSTED
Using a custom rig, the MythBusters repeatedly struck pairs of hammers together, but none shattered. Hammers with wooden handles merely snapped in two and hammers with metal handles bent. The MythBusters then decided to make the steel hammers harder and more brittle by adding more carbon and through heat treatment. In particular, they attempted to case harden the hammers, however it is questionable if this was done correctly. They heated the hammers to high temperatures and then coated the hammer heads in used engine oil. They also decided to have the hammers strike a more sturdy anvil instead of each other. However, during testing, the carbonized hammers merely bent at the handles without shattering. Furthermore, an anvil is generally not made of particularly hard steel, and so that test may have been doomed from the beginning. An anvil with a hardened tool steel insert would have been more appropriate. Though the myth was busted, some hammers come with warnings not to use them to strike another tool or hardened nail with excessive force; although no hammerhead shattered or chipped, high-speed footage showed particle dust flying in all directions, which presents an eye hazard.

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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-21-2014, 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Jetfuel View Post
meh...

http://mythbustersresults.com/episode67

If two hammers strike each other, at least one of them will completely shatter with lethal force.
BUSTED
Using a custom rig, the MythBusters repeatedly struck pairs of hammers together, but none shattered. Hammers with wooden handles merely snapped in two and hammers with metal handles bent. The MythBusters then decided to make the steel hammers harder and more brittle by adding more carbon and through heat treatment. In particular, they attempted to case harden the hammers, however it is questionable if this was done correctly. They heated the hammers to high temperatures and then coated the hammer heads in used engine oil. They also decided to have the hammers strike a more sturdy anvil instead of each other. However, during testing, the carbonized hammers merely bent at the handles without shattering. Furthermore, an anvil is generally not made of particularly hard steel, and so that test may have been doomed from the beginning. An anvil with a hardened tool steel insert would have been more appropriate. Though the myth was busted, some hammers come with warnings not to use them to strike another tool or hardened nail with excessive force; although no hammerhead shattered or chipped, high-speed footage showed particle dust flying in all directions, which presents an eye hazard.
You live and learn, this was something i was told nearly 40 years ago whilst doing my apprenticeship, maybe it was an evil rumour, maybe the hammers were made different
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-21-2014, 02:23 PM
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 09-21-2014, 02:25 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by weegaz22 View Post
usually brute force and ignorance can be your freind
Very well stated, my friend I had an impact driver at one point in time, I may have given it to a friend before I packed up and moved to Europe, completely forgot about that option. I'll see if I can find one here.

I'll also try a dose of excessive force on the throttle screw, I wasn't sure just how hard one can hammer on the clip-on assembly, but in any case as a result of varied attempts the screw is pretty well chewed up. I tried tapping odd-size drivers into it, but maybe I just needed one I happened to not have. Absolute worst case I can dremel the head off completely and slide the housing off. Gotta replace the screw anyway, I just didn't want a 30-minute job to require a MacGuyver.

As for the caliper plug, seriously, I've rapped on it hard enough to be concerned for the sake of the caliper itself and its mounting bracket, and have pushed on the screwdriver (while turning it) hard enough that I had a friend sit on the bike so it wouldn't move. I think I'm gonna have to resort to taking the caliper completely off and putting it in a vice, maybe even have to cut the groove deeper. I don't understand what that plug is doing there in the first place, none of the other brake system pins have plugs in them. Oh well, I should bleed the brake circuit anyway.

Thanks for the input, guys!

2006 Black Edition SP2
- Stickerless black...giggity
- Assorted stone chips
- Multicolor bug splats, updated weekly
- Custom boot scratches and crash marks on the tailpiece
- Scuffed bar weights & brake lever from asphalt acrobatics
- Road grime under the fender and tail
- Leo Vince exhaust
- Otherwise OEM, not gonna make BOTY any time soon


HOE-LEE SHEE-YIT, the TORQUE!!!

Last edited by BTF/PTM; 09-21-2014 at 02:38 PM.
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