valve clearances - Honda RC51 Forum : RC51 Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-23-2014, 03:10 PM Thread Starter
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valve clearances

any tips or tricks, recommended parts before i do this in the next week? i have the manual, and it looks pretty straight forward, but there might be some helpful advice that's not mentioned in the manual.

so far...

parts i'm going to order:

-feeler gauges
-F/R valve cover gasket
-O-ring for the dowell on the rear head.

as far as how i'll do it, just going to make sure the areas around the valve covers are clean, and then just go by the manual.

anything else?

also, if the valve clearances are in spec, but on the tighter end of the spectrum, do i want to go ahead and shim them to the looser end?
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-23-2014, 05:26 PM
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Take your time. Make sure everything is clean before taking anything apart to avoid foreign debris inside the motor.
If I remember right, the clearance specs are only a few thousandths of an inch, if they're in spec I'd leave them alone.

But then again I check mine every winter.

Follow the book and you won't go wrong.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-23-2014, 05:47 PM
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Torque wrenches.

3/8" drive torque wrench in ft/lbs, or in/lbs, or Kg/m.
Used to torque cam journal bolts, spark plugs, inspection plugs, etc. (medium size bolts, 8 to 14mm on average). I use this torque wrench more than any.

1/4" drive torque wrench in in/lbs. Handy for small bolts (6mm on average). Valve cover, clutch cover, clutch springs, etc.

1/2" drive torque wrench. Not needed for valve adjustment, but handy for large nuts and bolts (mainly for rear axle nut and front axle bolt).

1/2" drive breaker bar. Used to rotate the crankshaft into TDC position for valve clearance checks.

Small LED flashlight to view into tight spots, to check timing mark, etc.

A strong rare earth magnet or valve seat lapping tool to pull the buckets out of the bores.
I prefer the magnet as it usually grabs the shim as well, but sometimes the suction is a bit strong, I use the rubber face of the valve lapping tool like a suction cup to pull the bucket loose. Just watch for shim if it slides off its seat.

Last edited by SubSailor; 11-23-2014 at 05:52 PM.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-23-2014, 06:05 PM Thread Starter
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ok, so a 1/4 and 3/8" torque wrench (think my 1/2" is probably too big haha) and a 1/2" cheater bar from harbor freight. thanks gents

also, just to clarify, i'd only have to take the cams out if i needed to adjust valve clearances, correct?

and do yall use rtv on the gaskets?
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-24-2014, 08:05 AM
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You have to remove the cams to remove the buckets as it uses a shim under bucket design.
Don't use RTV. Just buy a tube of Yamabond #4 and apply a thin layer on the half moon parts of the gasket that fit into the head.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-24-2014, 07:23 PM
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Wink

definitely verify the torgue wrench goes to the low torque of the cam journal bolts. And torque in inrements. long skinny bolts- breaking one could ruin the day. Overall its pretty simple but being in the internals can always make it a nervous affair. Last winter I took the bike off the engine to make it easier
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Last edited by avionicstech; 11-25-2014 at 12:36 AM.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-28-2014, 05:09 PM
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Is it an engine out job to do the shims?

Honda SP1.5 owner
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-28-2014, 05:19 PM Thread Starter
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No, cam out, remove the buckets then shims is my understanding
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-28-2014, 05:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Polarbear View Post
Is it an engine out job to do the shims?
No engine removal required.

On and SP1, you'll have to remove the bolts to lower the oil cooler to gain access to the front valve cover.
On the SP2, you'll have to removed the air guide plate in a similar location.

And the crankcase vent hose to the front valve cover can be annoying to slip off the fitting.

Besides the check and adjustment if needed, the front access makes it a bit difficult the see the cam alignment marks from the side on the front cylinder.

It can be done, just be sure the marks do align properly before torquing down.
A flashlight and small mirror help as well to view from the side.

The cams use spring loaded quieting gears, and you won't be able to fully determine if the cams are aligned until the journal caps are installed and snugged down.
No need to torque until you're sure the marks align as you may have to remove and reposition by a tooth. Then you can torque per service manual specs.

Oh, and the shim thickness marks are at the top of the shim (under the bucket).
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 12-01-2014, 10:46 AM
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For the rear cylinder, if you measure and need to do shim adjustments, then I'd recommend removing the gas tank. It gave me a lot more room to work with r&r the cams. Worth the effort, I thought.

John, 2000 RC51 #000100

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