Dyno shop issues, couple questions... - Honda RC51 Forum : RC51 Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-11-2015, 12:34 AM Thread Starter
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Dyno shop issues, couple questions...

Hey all,

I'm having an interesting experience with a dyno shop. If I'm crazy and wrong, please let me know. The bike is an SP1 with power commander. The shop I took the bike to came recommended from a friend. They claim that the clutch switch being disconnected is keeping the bike in "start up enrichment". I call bulls__t in a big way. it has been that way for quite a long time with no issues, and nothing comes up in searches both on this site and webbernet wide. I explained to them that that was not the case, and if it were, why would it have a choke? The other thing that has me intent on pulling it out of there is that they claim that they cannot tune with the SP1 PCII, that it is "ancient technology". Unless someone can tell me I'm wrong or missing something, I'm getting that thing out of there tomorrow...

Whatcha think?
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-11-2015, 04:22 AM
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So holding the clutch in is what is making my sp1 use so much fuel..What a load of BS...It stops you from looking like a fool when you hit the starter button when the bike is in gear.
As for the pcII it is old tech with limited tuning ranges..
Maybe someone here can point you in the direction of a good tuner and a pcIII
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-11-2015, 05:16 AM
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Garage
They have something narly in the " shop pipe "...

-2001 Honda RC51 sp1 " Slightly Modified "
-2001 Honda 929RR Erion Edition
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-11-2015, 07:34 AM
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The clutch switch is complete BS. All it does is interrupt a ground.
A pc2 is older, but I can not see why a shop couldn't tune it, tell them to dust off their old manuals and get to it. My guess is that they are trying to get you to buy a newer version.

Hopefully LDH will tune in with his insight, he's the one to ask and one of the few I'd blindly trust working on mine. Now if only he was wasn't on the other side of the country
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-11-2015, 10:44 AM
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Some good info

http://www.rc51.org/dynotuning.htm

John, 2000 RC51 #000100

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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-11-2015, 11:12 AM Thread Starter
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Just talked to the Dyno shop, and he states that there is an ignition spike at ~5k and ~10k. While common understanding says that the clutch switch only interrupts the circuit, wiring diagram shows both wires from the clutch switch going into the ECU. I'm unsure why, but there must be a reason....

The clutch switch is open and the bike cannot be started in gear which means the ECU sees the clutch as engaged, but...

I'm going down the road with them and reconnecting the clutch switch even though I know it's crap, won't take long. Also, I'm going to a PC V since it is more modern, slicker tech. I'll keep you posted.

Last edited by RCx2; 03-11-2015 at 01:59 PM.
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-11-2015, 01:47 PM Thread Starter
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...and LDH, I know I shoulda just brought it to you guys, but I had a friend already going to this place and he praised their skills. I promise to call you soon and buy something. I repent.
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-11-2015, 08:20 PM
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PC II is very old, to be fair, I hadn't even heard of it and have mad my bike 8 years!
I have a PCIIIR and even that's got old tuning software, which requires a serial port connection, but as there's nothing wrong with the way the bike runs I won't be changing it.
I guess PC II software is old and like my PC IIIr has far fewer fuel cell map adjustments than a PC III USB or newer. PC II software may no longer be available either. So going to a newer ECU makes sense for several reasons.

The clutch switch is just a safety, it has nothing to do with start-up enrichment, but in any case it's good to have it connected.

Tuners are like dentists. Few people really know a good one because they don't have enough experience in this work themselves to quantify.

Euro RC51 SP2: HRC WSB Ti Hi-Level, T1 Airbox & Snorkel, PCIII, Dymag CA5 Carbon Wheels, Ti64 Spindles (F, R & Swing Arm), Mori Link, Maxton GP7 Shock & Ohlins 832 Forks, Brembo GP Calipers & SBK narrow track (F), Braketech Disc (R), Brembo billet Underslung x 2 Brembo RCS, Tyga Triple, 7075 Stem, Probolt Titanium all over, Babyface rearsets, MR Complete Carbon Lineup, Custom Undertail & CBR 1000 LED, Watsen LED Indicators, Harris Brace, Giles clip-ons, Corbin seat, etc. 2013 BOTY.

Last edited by The Stig; 03-11-2015 at 09:15 PM.
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-11-2015, 08:23 PM
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Don't be so quick to discount the clutch switch.
I had a Suzuki TL1000s. I chucked the clutch switch and the bike never ran right, until I put a new switch.

I don't believe it was bullshit on my Suzuki.
It may not be bullshit on the Honda either.
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-11-2015, 09:11 PM
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I have no clutch switch connection on my SP2, as I run a Brembo master cylinder which come without a switch. There's no difference in how mine runs now compared to before; I just can't start it if the bike is in gear, that's all.
I doubt a PC II has any different parameters than an PCIIIR with regard to this safety switch. It's just an on / off micro switch to stop the bike being started in gear unless the clutch is pulled in... It has nothing to do with fuel enrichment.

Euro RC51 SP2: HRC WSB Ti Hi-Level, T1 Airbox & Snorkel, PCIII, Dymag CA5 Carbon Wheels, Ti64 Spindles (F, R & Swing Arm), Mori Link, Maxton GP7 Shock & Ohlins 832 Forks, Brembo GP Calipers & SBK narrow track (F), Braketech Disc (R), Brembo billet Underslung x 2 Brembo RCS, Tyga Triple, 7075 Stem, Probolt Titanium all over, Babyface rearsets, MR Complete Carbon Lineup, Custom Undertail & CBR 1000 LED, Watsen LED Indicators, Harris Brace, Giles clip-ons, Corbin seat, etc. 2013 BOTY.
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