Clutch issues - Honda RC51 Forum : RC51 Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-15-2015, 11:35 AM Thread Starter
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Smile Clutch issues

Had my 2000SP1 for just over a year now and thought I'd share my clutch issues. I bought the bike on eBay unseen, it's stock and arrived as expected in great condition with 10k miles. Preparing for its province inspection I found the clutch slave cylinder leaking, a rebuild kit fixed the leak. After riding the bike to the dealer for its inspection the clutch failed in the parking lot, would not engage, bummer The dealer found the clutch master cylinder blocked, removed the dedris, passed the bike and recommended a master cylinder rebuild which I did over the winter. The clutch was terrible and would suddenly grab when pulling away I decided to fit a new slave cylinder and the clutch is now better than ever, smooth and predicable.

I also changed the chain set over the winter to 15/41, what a difference the bike is so much nicer to ride.

All thanks to the info on this forum

Martin

2000 RC51, 2002 CBR1100XX, 2005 ST1300A

Last edited by sky.high; 05-15-2015 at 11:37 AM.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-18-2015, 11:41 AM
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The SP1's suffered from clutch judder. Suddenly grabbing when you are easing out the clutch from a stop.
The SP2's were fitted with a judder spring and seat at the back of the clutch pack to help solve that problem.
A couple guys here have swapped in a SP2 clutch pack and judder spring and seat into their SP1's and have reported zero problems with the upgrade.
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John, 2000 RC51 #000100

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-30-2015, 09:43 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jondog9 View Post
The SP1's suffered from clutch judder. Suddenly grabbing when you are easing out the clutch from a stop.
The SP2's were fitted with a judder spring and seat at the back of the clutch pack to help solve that problem.
A couple guys here have swapped in a SP2 clutch pack and judder spring and seat into their SP1's and have reported zero problems with the upgrade.
Hi John thanks for the info so far my RC clutch is now manageable although it remains a concern if it plays up again I'll go for an sp2 assemble

The clutch grab I experienced was dramatic almost hazardous, has anyone upgrade on safety concerns?

Slotting into traffic at a yield isn't a good place for an unpredictable clutch!

Martin

2000 RC51, 2002 CBR1100XX, 2005 ST1300A
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-30-2015, 11:05 AM
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The clutch grab I experienced was dramatic almost hazardous, has anyone upgrade on safety concerns?
Don't worry, you'll get used to it!
Mine did it a lot before I changed out the clutch plates and discs. It still does it once in a great while, but it's pretty rare. I switched to Barnett.

I have a used SP2 clutch pack with the judder stuff, but I haven't tried it out yet since I'm pretty happy overall with the Barnett replacements. When they're worn out, I'll try the SP2 swap.

John, 2000 RC51 #000100

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-08-2017, 03:46 PM
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I had similar problems with my clutch - on infrequent outings, trying to pull away, nothing, then would suddenly grab and jolt the bike forwards, or stall it. Seemed ok on the move, and when being used regularly, so I put it down to one of those things that just happened when the bike was rested for a few weeks. The problem got much worse a couple of years ago, and every start up was a gamble pulling away. Bleeding the clutch made no difference. I removed the clutch slave cylinder assembly from just in front of the gearbox sprocket cover, to find the clutch lifter rod (which runs across the width of the engine) siezed in place with a mixture of grease and dust, as well as lightly scored in places. Removed the rod, cleaned it up and polished it, as well as degreasing the hole it fits in and thoroughly cleaning this with a bottle brush and solvent cleaner, before reassembly with a fine coating of light oil. Since doing this, my clutch has been smooth, as well as a lot lighter to operate and I have had no further on/off issues when pulling away. Simple job to do, worth repeating every couple of years to ensure smooth clutch operation in the future
Even getting a dealer to carry out this work would pay for itself if it saves a costly and embarrasing low speed drop from doing damage to bodywork, radiator etc in future.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-28-2017, 11:44 AM
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I had a buddy who had an RC that suddenly developed a clutch slip under full power, now the clutch was recent so I started asking questions. Answer, he smoked his clutch by using Mobil 1 AUTOMOBILE oil in it. He was a bit of a Noob mechanically and did his own oil change and paid for it.. I re-did his clutch and now all is good. Expensive(ish) lession.


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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-28-2017, 01:47 PM
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WPC clutch parts

I removed the clutch slave cylinder assembly from just in front of the gearbox sprocket cover, to find the clutch lifter rod (which runs across the width of the engine) siezed in place with a mixture of grease and dust, as well as lightly scored in places. Removed the rod, cleaned it up and polished it, as well as degreasing the hole it fits in and thoroughly cleaning this with a bottle brush and solvent cleaner, before reassembly with a fine coating of light oil. Since doing this, my clutch has been smooth, as well as a lot lighter to operate and I have had no further on/off issues when pulling away. Simple job to do, worth repeating every couple of years to ensure smooth clutch operation

OR cryo and or WPC treat it and any other clutch/trans parts and it will remain slick and durable FOREVER....
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-02-2017, 11:50 AM
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I've had issues with the slave when bleeding the clutch. It seems the seal for the lifter rod on the slave piston traps some air when the rod is seated. The internal spring in the slave isn't enough to overcome the pressure created in the pocket by the seal and pushes the piston outward once the bleeder is cracked.

It was maddening until I figure out what was causing it because no amount of bleeding firmed the clutch up. I rebuilt the master cylinder once and even went so far as to replace it with an aftermarket lever. The new master cylinder has an upper bleeder that I use with a pressure bleeder and that works just fine as the pressure will seat the rod/piston while the slave bleeder valve is open.

But it is a pain having to have all that gadgetry in place just to bleed the clutch.

Anyone else experienced this? Maybe I'm overlooking something simple.
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