Clutch - Honda RC51 Forum : RC51 Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-12-2016, 11:52 AM Thread Starter
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Clutch

I have a question regarding the clutch. I detect a vibration in the engine as I go off idle on the gas. Much better(almost nothing) if I have the clutch pulled in. No shudder on take off.
Otherwise it pulls like a train over 2000. Fueling is a bit lumpy low down.

Do the RC's have a charateristic clutch vibration?

I have a Fireblade as a point of reference which is like glass.

I do understand that purely by virtue of the fact that it's a twin, it's going to vibrate.

Would appreciate any comments.
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-12-2016, 11:54 AM
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I think I need to ride your bike to give an honest assertion of the issue.
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-12-2016, 11:58 AM Thread Starter
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I think I need to ride your bike to give an honest assertion of the issue.
You have a blade too so you know what I mean. Flight to me is 18 hours. So see you sometime tomorrow.
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-12-2016, 12:00 PM
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Haha!

Without purchasing a plane ticket, I would venture to say you are probably just babying it a little too much. Heavy flywheel V-twins need a little more throttle to get them up and rolling especially with the tall first gears.
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-12-2016, 12:04 PM Thread Starter
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Haha!

Without purchasing a plane ticket, I would venture to say you are probably just babying it a little too much. Heavy flywheel V-twins need a little more throttle to get them up and rolling especially with the tall first gears.
You may be right, there are no other issues with the clutch operation.
I may just pull the cover off and see how much backlash I have.
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-12-2016, 01:05 PM
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you need to get a power commander, it really smooths out the fueling!


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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-12-2016, 01:08 PM Thread Starter
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It's on my list......
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-12-2016, 01:31 PM
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Anything below 3000 rpm is going to be lumpy. A Power Commander will definitely help smooth out the fuel map, but there's no getting away from the snatchiness at that low of rpm.

John, 2000 RC51 #000100

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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-12-2016, 04:40 PM
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Changing sprockets from OEM 16F/40R to 15F and 41 or 42 rear should also help.

Did you do the custom paint / graphics on your RC, or buy it that way?

Looks good.
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 01-13-2016, 10:24 AM Thread Starter
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Changing sprockets from OEM 16F/40R to 15F and 41 or 42 rear should also help.

Did you do the custom paint / graphics on your RC, or buy it that way?

Looks good.
I am planning to up the gearing, I am thinking 2 teeth at the rear. I am keen to use it at the track and in the mountains here so I don't want a 300 km top speed. I would rather it stood on its back wheel when accelerating out of the bends.

In terms of the paint question, if you are referring to the profile pic that is not my bike but I was going to copy it originally, it is reminiscent of the old RC30 paint scheme. I have gone with the Castrol theme on my bike which will take the place of the profile pic when I am finished painting, hopefully in the next week or 2.
I got the castrol skins in Hong Kong and was surprised at the quality for the price, I am however doing some paintwork on them on a couple of areas where I felt they could have been better. I plan to look around for original body panels and do a complete set for the street but I can take my time on that. No hurry.

Most important thing for me at the moment is to get it to stop and go around a corner properly. No point on having all that shiny stuff and it handles like a bag of [email protected]

Having said that I have just bought some braided brake hoses so it may be 3 weeks before its done.

Oh, and I am still waiting on some tyres.
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