AMP1 has good advice there. Basically, your bleeding the banjo bolt in the same fashion you would bleed your brakes. Just tighten the banjo bolt before you release the clutch handle so you don't suck air back in.
It helps to turn the handle bars all the way to the right, and I remove the 6 little bolts and windshield to make pouring in fluid easier. This puts your banjo bolt at the highest possible point where air bubbles will eventually flow to.
At this point you might as well suck the old DOT 4 brake fluid from your clutch reservoir with a syringe or mighty vac or even a turkey baster, and replace it with brand new fluid from a sealed bottle.
You really should have new crush washers too. It would be worth the effort, imo, to unscrew the banjo bolt all the way and replace them. One on each side of the line fitting. (I took my old ones to NAPA and matched them up. Bag of 10 was only about $6.)
Final torque on the banjo bolt: 25 lb.ft.
After the banjo bolt is bled, use the bleed valve on your clutch slave, and use the bleeding procedure again to push out all the old fluid from your line and slave cylinder. Again, remember to snug the bleeder before releasing the clutch handle.
Keep an eye on the reservoir that it doesn't run out of fluid.
When you have fresh fluid coming from the bleed valve, and all the air is out, tighten the bleed valve back up (manual says only 6.5 lb.ft.) and you should have a firm handle again.
If not, you may need to bleed the clutch master separately from the banjo bolt. Hopefully not, as bleeding at the banjo bolt has always worked for me.
Final note, have a spray bottle with soapy water and some rags to immediately clean off any brake fluid spills. The stuff is nasty to paint and other surfaces.