New rear tire now clutch problem - Honda RC51 Forum : RC51 Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-03-2016, 02:22 PM Thread Starter
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New rear tire now clutch problem

Ok so I'm new to posting here....been reading for a while but ran into a problem and am seeking some advice from the forum.

Had my bike (2003) RC51 for several years now...but just started doing some basic maintenance myself...new hobby.

Here's my problem..changed the rear tire and had a difficult time getting it back on by myself...(spacers kept falling out)....now that I finally got wheel back into place and adjusted the chain tension...cleaned it etc.

I noticed the pressure on clutch lever had diminished. Very little pressure. Clutch and gears still work...little pressure in lever. Placed bike gear. Shifted hard and when released clutch to pull forward hard jump (spun tire left burnt out and then it died...jerked forward and died.

Any advice on what I did...it was fine before wheel change...about an inch or so slack on chain and it's not quite ready to be replaced yet.

Please help.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-03-2016, 02:56 PM
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Did you pull the clutch slave cylinder from the left side of the bike ?? It is at the front sprocket cover.
Did you open the clutch hydraulic lines at the clutch lever ??
Did you add engine oil ?? (sounds weird but it is a cause of clutch lip)

If you removed in any way the clutch slave cylinder cover this usually will give lack of pressure and can be taken up at the lever bleeder.
If engine oil is to full, the clutch can slip.
If you cracked open any hydraulic lines air is in them and need bleeding.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-03-2016, 03:14 PM Thread Starter
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I did .... I pulled the front sprocket cover off where the slave cylinder is...didn't removed the slave cylinder, it came off with the cover. I inspected the front sprocket then replace....did not disconnect any lines...just removed bolt to the sprocket cover.

Have not changed oil yet.

So....does it just need to be bled?
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-03-2016, 05:32 PM
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Yep.

Here is how I have done it after removing this cover.....

Put a few rags around it (the fluid escape point) at the lever,
loosen the banjo bolt slightly (but not enough to release fluids yet) so it is easy to turn when your ready,
Pull in on the clutch lever a little while opening up the banjo bolt until some fluid starts coming out,
pull the lever all the way slowly and firmly and just before getting to the bottom of the lever pull tighten the bolt up slightly snug again,
Do again and again until there is pressure.
I have found about three times is what it takes.

ALSO make sure you watch the reservoir level and add more as you do this so it does not run dry.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-03-2016, 07:14 PM Thread Starter
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Ok cool....AMP1 I appreciate it...give me a couple of days and I'll let you know how it turns out. Wish me luck.

Thanks
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-04-2016, 01:19 PM
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AMP1 has good advice there. Basically, your bleeding the banjo bolt in the same fashion you would bleed your brakes. Just tighten the banjo bolt before you release the clutch handle so you don't suck air back in.
It helps to turn the handle bars all the way to the right, and I remove the 6 little bolts and windshield to make pouring in fluid easier. This puts your banjo bolt at the highest possible point where air bubbles will eventually flow to.
At this point you might as well suck the old DOT 4 brake fluid from your clutch reservoir with a syringe or mighty vac or even a turkey baster, and replace it with brand new fluid from a sealed bottle.
You really should have new crush washers too. It would be worth the effort, imo, to unscrew the banjo bolt all the way and replace them. One on each side of the line fitting. (I took my old ones to NAPA and matched them up. Bag of 10 was only about $6.)
Final torque on the banjo bolt: 25 lb.ft.

After the banjo bolt is bled, use the bleed valve on your clutch slave, and use the bleeding procedure again to push out all the old fluid from your line and slave cylinder. Again, remember to snug the bleeder before releasing the clutch handle.
Keep an eye on the reservoir that it doesn't run out of fluid.
When you have fresh fluid coming from the bleed valve, and all the air is out, tighten the bleed valve back up (manual says only 6.5 lb.ft.) and you should have a firm handle again.
If not, you may need to bleed the clutch master separately from the banjo bolt. Hopefully not, as bleeding at the banjo bolt has always worked for me.
Final note, have a spray bottle with soapy water and some rags to immediately clean off any brake fluid spills. The stuff is nasty to paint and other surfaces.

John, 2000 RC51 #000100

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-04-2016, 03:43 PM
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Also. Since i just dealt with this yesterday..

It will tend to get air in the upper banjo on the clutch master. It will never bleed out from the bottom.
You have to bleed the upper banjo first the air gets trapped there. Then once it starts build some pressure do the bottom like normal.
Also please note it is Dot 4 brake fluid.

2003 RC
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-04-2016, 04:22 PM
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To stop this happening in future, when you remove the front sprocket cover or the clutch slave cylinder, place a suitably sized socket on the piston face and hold into the housing by tying a cable tie round the clutch slave cylinder holding the piston in.

The piston is pushed out (slowly) by a spring, and once the piston is pushed out far enough air can leak in past the piston seal.

It takes a couple of minutes for the spring to push the piston out, so you have plenty of time to fit the cable tie, but one tip is to have the cable tie already started, and then all you need to do is tighten it up.
pirks likes this.

It's not falling off, it's an upgrade opportunity
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-06-2016, 06:11 PM Thread Starter
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Great advice guys...thanks for your help. Bled Banjo Bolt and then the entire system today....works great now...
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