stuck on the side of the road, revs but doesnt move. - Honda RC51 Forum : RC51 Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 37 (permalink) Old 05-25-2016, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
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stuck on the side of the road, revs but doesnt move.

Sitting here on the side of the interstate with nothing but time.

Ive been through all sorts of crap with this bike lately. I left to do the weekly bike meet across town and while i was coming around the on ramp the bike would rev as i twisted the throttle but was real sluggish and hardly wanted to move. Traffic was bumber to bumper an it finally wont go anymore.

It will shift down into firat and neutral, 2nd will go but it goes in with a hard jolt, the rest also shift fine...ish. bike simply will not move forward though. At one point it suddenly tried to grab and take off forqard while trying to get to the emergency lane and scared the shit out of me but now that im here it wont do anything.

Clutch? Shift forks? Idk, i just replaced the sprockets and chain and it did this once before warlier in the week but only for a very short moment and thwn it was fine.

Advice? This thing is picking me to death the last few months.

Last edited by Hooch; 09-17-2016 at 10:54 AM.
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post #2 of 37 (permalink) Old 05-25-2016, 05:04 PM
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is your clutch bled properly? maybe check for clutch disc wear


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post #3 of 37 (permalink) Old 05-25-2016, 09:05 PM
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Sounds like clutch plates slipping or not engaging. How does your clutch handle feel?

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post #4 of 37 (permalink) Old 05-25-2016, 10:46 PM
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Run your finger under the bottom of the clutch slave cylinder and check for fluid residue.
There's a hole under the bottom that allows escaping fluid to drip past.
If there's accumulated fluid there, the slave cylinder cup seal is going bad and allowing brake fluid to pass by, therefore not holding pressure.
Happened to my VFR800, which uses a similar slave cylinder design.
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post #5 of 37 (permalink) Old 05-26-2016, 01:30 AM
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could be those aftermarket levers are not allowing the return port in the master cylinder to fully open and return fluid, try taking the lever off and using a stock one
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post #6 of 37 (permalink) Old 05-26-2016, 08:38 AM Thread Starter
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The clutch lever feels normal, i had to bleed it after doing the sprocket an it blead out like normal, took a long time but it did bleed. I'll have to check the cylinder for seepage when i got home tonight.

Not sure what to say about the levers, i dont have any stock ones. The brake side was bent real bad an i threw both the old ones away when i replaced them.
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post #7 of 37 (permalink) Old 05-26-2016, 11:23 AM
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take the bolt out that holds the lever on, if you need to push the master cylinder piston in to replace the bolt it could well be the cause of your problem
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post #8 of 37 (permalink) Old 05-26-2016, 01:13 PM
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clutch bleeding issue for sure. if you can back-bleed it with a pressure bleeder (basically a syringe and hose on the bottom bleeder), it makes life much easier. because of the upward angle of the master cylinder, air often gets trapped up in the top of the line at the banjo bolt. you might be able to crack that bolt with the lever pulled and get the bubble out.
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post #9 of 37 (permalink) Old 05-26-2016, 01:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitropolitan View Post
clutch bleeding issue for sure. if you can back-bleed it with a pressure bleeder (basically a syringe and hose on the bottom bleeder), it makes life much easier. because of the upward angle of the master cylinder, air often gets trapped up in the top of the line at the banjo bolt. you might be able to crack that bolt with the lever pulled and get the bubble out.
It is slipping, not dragging, if there were air in the system it would drag, it is the slave stuck, either because it is corroded and sticking or is being maintained under pressure
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post #10 of 37 (permalink) Old 05-26-2016, 03:37 PM
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air can also expand when the line warms up, causing slipping. and/or dragging. all of the above is possible! then the clutch gets hot, the plates get glazed, the oil gets nasty, and you get to have fun times cleaning it all up.
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