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Don't laugh at me

7K views 32 replies 11 participants last post by  Polarbear 
#1 ·
For the first time since I've owned my RC I'm going to attempt to change the oil and oil filter. Does anyone have a brief walk through for this? Is it an easy job and is it easy enough to do the air filters too while I'm at it, or is that a whole other job entirely? Gonna leave the hard stuff like the plugs, brake and clutch fluid for my local guy to do.

Any help or advice would be appreciated as most of you who know me know that I'm useless with mechanical stuff!
 
#5 · (Edited)
The hardest part of changing the oil on a RC is taking the fairings off. I've always took off both side fairings, it could be done with only taking off the right (throttle side) fairing, but when you drain the oil the from the engine, it may get on the other fairing, but for me it is just in the way to get to the drain plug.
Other then that, drain plug on the left side of the oil pan, oil filter on the front near the starter, oil fill and sight glass on the right.

Air filter is a little more, but once you get the tank lifted it's eight screws (if I remember right), two of which hold the filters in place.
When I need to lift my tank I pull the tail fairing too, just so I don't have to worry about it rubbing on the sides of my tank.

In my experience, none of maintenance on a RC is hard; oil change, air filters, checking the valve lash; but some of it can be a pain to get to i.e. pulling out the air box.

Down load the service manual (its free, http://www.rc51.info/index.php?page=service) it walks you through most things step by step.

When are you planning/wanting to have your bike serviced? I need to do all that you have listed to mine. I can put together a "how to" or "walk through" together, but it wont be until late Jan. or early Feb.

James
 
#6 ·
^ thats really helpfull advice man, thanks. plus that how to would be awesome, but its mid/late jan im doing mine.

i think ill get all the fairings off (apart from the head fairing) one day and put it on a drip/treakle charge.

do the oil and filter another day.

then do the air filters another day. just do a bit at a time, nice and easy
 
#7 ·
another thing: my rc is currently on its rear paddock stand, so the rear is up. does the bike need to be level when putting the oil in, so the sighting glass is accurate?

to lift the fuel tank up, do i need to do anything with the fuel inside?
 
#8 · (Edited)
Best to have the ol'gurl on the ground on the side stand, oil level is checked with bike OFF the stand and sitting upright and LEVEL ground is a must. After changing oil and filter, run bike for a min or so....stop the engine.....let it sit for a min, then check sight glass should register half way between the low/high marks. Remember to have bike sitting upright when checking oil level, I do not know how many leave it on the stand and end up overfull.
 
#18 ·
Remove the riders seat and rear cowl.
Remove the two bolts at the font tank mount.
Gently lift the tank and support with a prop.

When slowly lowering the tank, make very sure the left tank weld seam does not pinch the main wiring harness near the left frame spar and rear section of the frame. It happens fairly often.
Also check all hoses are clear of the tank when lowering.

As with everything, take your time and be careful and observant.
 
#14 ·
Here's my advice to you or anyone else that wants to do their own maintenance.

1. If you have to ask you are probably not qualified to do it. I don't mean that in a bad way as I strongly encourage others to learn as much as they can about their bikes and perform all their own maintenance if possible. It is simply a matter of safety as there are a lot of things that can be done incorrectly on a motorcycle that can be a matter of life or death. From brake failures because you forgot to tighten the pad pins or don't have a crush washer tight enough to the most simple task of chain maintenance where a chain that is too tight hinders proper suspension movement accelerates sprocket wear and can even pull the countershaft out of the case etc. Even leaving a spacer out of the wheel hub assembly can be catastrophic and I bet a lot of guys here have done that at least once in their life after putting on new tires. Every part needs to be replaced properly or something will go wrong.

2. If you are going to pursue the idea of doing your own maintenance quit asking for advice on a web forum full of self proclaimed experts just like myself that you don't know from Adam and go buy an OEM service manual that details all these procedures.
 
#16 ·
Before changing the oil, ride the bike for a bit to get the oil nice and hot. Let it sit for a while to cool off and take the fairings off during that time. When the oil is warm it's more viscous and you'll be able to drain more of it out more easily. I've changed the oil a handful of times on the RC and 4qts is always the right amount with a new filter.

After changing the oil, run it for a bit and check the oil sight glass. The OEM toolkit has a spanner and extension piece that you can use to prop the tank. Check the manual for the details. It's pretty clever actually.
 
#19 ·
As stated above, read the manual. If it seems like too much for you, send it to a shop to get it done.

Some people have problems taking off fairings, some people can tear a bike down in 20 minutes and build it back up in 30. You don't have to be a master mechanic to change oil, but if you are asking for help on a forum, that should give you a clue as to where you fall.

Changing oil is pretty easy. Bike on sidestand, remove fairings, drain oil, remove and replace filter (wipe oil on the rubber o-ring of the filter), replace drain plug with new-ish crush washer, add oil as needed with bike in level position on just tires (no stands), check after running a minute. Just be sure you don't over tighten the drain bolt and strip it (steel bolt, aluminum pan). A good option is to safety wire your drain bolt. You can get titanium drain bolts with holes already drilled for safety wire for about $25 from pro-bolt.
 
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