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  Topic Review (Newest First)
03-21-2010 10:40 AM
GlennCauley
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank ZX View Post
I was just going to ask if anyone ran Rotella in there RC's.I have always ran it in my trucks and dirtbikes.I always change the oil in my bikes too often(sometimes everyride).I just bought my RC last week and was thinking of using Rotella but I wanted to hear it from someone else first.
I think it's crazy to buy the exotic oils.Do these companies own oil refineries?Amsoil and Mobil 1 are in my opinion the best oils made for extended use.
I use Mobil 1 extended oil in my wife's Corolla and change the oil and filter at 10K miles.over 100K and zero problems.Just my $0.02
LOL yup! see:
https://www.rc51forums.com/forums/sho...7&postcount=16
03-21-2010 10:35 AM
Frank ZX I was just going to ask if anyone ran Rotella in there RC's.I have always ran it in my trucks and dirtbikes.I always change the oil in my bikes too often(sometimes everyride).I just bought my RC last week and was thinking of using Rotella but I wanted to hear it from someone else first.
I think it's crazy to buy the exotic oils.Do these companies own oil refineries?Amsoil and Mobil 1 are in my opinion the best oils made for extended use.
I use Mobil 1 extended oil in my wife's Corolla and change the oil and filter at 10K miles.over 100K and zero problems.Just my $0.02
03-15-2010 08:58 AM
mighty max Is Motorex 4T Lagend V twin 20-50 is good for track used?
03-13-2010 05:54 AM
fishfire
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aircooled View Post
Ehhhhh yes and no.

(The reason I say no): The wear properties of a GOOD synthetic will far, FAR exceed any regular (dyno) oil. In an engine with these types of tolerances I simply would use nothing less than a good synthetic no matter how often he changes the oil. Even the wear properties of the best dyno oil brand new are nothing compared to a good synthetic.

(The reason I say yes): Depending on the makeup of the oil, he really is changing it too frequently. Although he's keeping the oil looking good and clean, he's not giving the oil a chance to wear and do it's job properly. Most of your oils on the market have a lifespan where they take some time to reach their full cleaning potential. When an oil is looking dirty, it normally means it's just doing it's job and it may not be time to change it just yet. Oil is not as cut and dry of a subject as some people think, www.bobistheoilguy.com is a fantastic tool for research, these guys take their oils very seriously and they still have their own opinions on what's best or what they like. If you're ever bored, check it out sometime.

Personally, I say if you like the Motul oil, I wouldn't give up on it. I'd ride down, buy a case or two at a time and just keep a little stock of it. Heck it'll probably cost you less in fuel and time from when you used to ride and buy it in low amounts.

On the note of Rotella, I love the stuff, I won't use it in anything that's too tight of tolerances but I always use it in my VW engines (I have about 4 different engines I switch around depending on the car and what I'm doing with it). But it's all I use in them, keeps everything very clean, the bearings seem to like it and the flat lifters love it.

My own high performance stuff I like to use Royal Purple. For just high performance street use I'll use the normal weight oils, for my racing applications I will use their racing blend and change the oil every or every other weekend of racing as their racing oil I use doesn't have the properties the hold water, so it needs to be flushed out frequently (the wear properties are amazing though, the bearings always turn out perfect). But their standard weight oil DO have the ability to retain water like they should meaning you can go longer intervals in between changes (like normal).
Great info
03-06-2010 03:14 PM
rcCARVER I have 2100 miles on my '04 rc. I decided to change to a full syn. The guy at my local dealer said that HP4S doesn't come in 10-40 weight. Is 10-30 O.K.? Everyone seems to talk in 10-40 terms.
03-03-2010 02:24 PM
Aircooled
Quote:
Originally Posted by SubSailor View Post
Yeah if you change your oil every 2500 Km (1500 Miles), then you might as well stay with regular oil.
You just blowing cash by using synthetic with that sort of an interval, unless you're racing and then I can see it.
Ehhhhh yes and no.

(The reason I say no): The wear properties of a GOOD synthetic will far, FAR exceed any regular (dyno) oil. In an engine with these types of tolerances I simply would use nothing less than a good synthetic no matter how often he changes the oil. Even the wear properties of the best dyno oil brand new are nothing compared to a good synthetic.

(The reason I say yes): Depending on the makeup of the oil, he really is changing it too frequently. Although he's keeping the oil looking good and clean, he's not giving the oil a chance to wear and do it's job properly. Most of your oils on the market have a lifespan where they take some time to reach their full cleaning potential. When an oil is looking dirty, it normally means it's just doing it's job and it may not be time to change it just yet. Oil is not as cut and dry of a subject as some people think, www.bobistheoilguy.com is a fantastic tool for research, these guys take their oils very seriously and they still have their own opinions on what's best or what they like. If you're ever bored, check it out sometime.

Personally, I say if you like the Motul oil, I wouldn't give up on it. I'd ride down, buy a case or two at a time and just keep a little stock of it. Heck it'll probably cost you less in fuel and time from when you used to ride and buy it in low amounts.

On the note of Rotella, I love the stuff, I won't use it in anything that's too tight of tolerances but I always use it in my VW engines (I have about 4 different engines I switch around depending on the car and what I'm doing with it). But it's all I use in them, keeps everything very clean, the bearings seem to like it and the flat lifters love it.

My own high performance stuff I like to use Royal Purple. For just high performance street use I'll use the normal weight oils, for my racing applications I will use their racing blend and change the oil every or every other weekend of racing as their racing oil I use doesn't have the properties the hold water, so it needs to be flushed out frequently (the wear properties are amazing though, the bearings always turn out perfect). But their standard weight oil DO have the ability to retain water like they should meaning you can go longer intervals in between changes (like normal).
03-02-2010 05:59 PM
Boostismyfriend +1 i run Rotella T15w40 in every thing I own

Quote:
Originally Posted by GlennCauley View Post
I'll precede this by saying "don't laugh" ...

I use Shell Rotella T 15w40 heavy-duty diesel motor oil.
I race my TLR with this all last season, and am using it in my RC51 this season.

It's a VERY good oil, extremely well engineered, and touted by racers, drag racers, and mechanics. And best of all... it inexpensive. A 9.5L jug cost me maybe US$35~40.

Take a look through the forums at TLZone.net and search for "Rotella" and you'll see all the good feedback.

HTH
02-22-2010 08:10 PM
GlennCauley
Shell Rotella T

I'll precede this by saying "don't laugh" ...

I use Shell Rotella T 15w40 heavy-duty diesel motor oil.
I race my TLR with this all last season, and am using it in my RC51 this season.

It's a VERY good oil, extremely well engineered, and touted by racers, drag racers, and mechanics. And best of all... it inexpensive. A 9.5L jug cost me maybe US$35~40.

Take a look through the forums at TLZone.net and search for "Rotella" and you'll see all the good feedback.

HTH
01-13-2010 02:10 PM
fishfire Silkolene Pro 4 here, no probs
11-04-2009 09:30 PM
Squiggly
Quote:
Originally Posted by SP1#311 View Post
I run Golden Spectro blend and change it every 2,500 street miles or after each track session.
hmmm... don't think we have that here in Manila, but thanks man, at least i know what im looking for.
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