RC51 Forums banner

1 - 20 of 26 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,663 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'm ready to buy another chain and sprocket set, after inspecting mine yesterday. I've developed a tight spot about 15 links away from the masterlink. And the rear sprocket is showing wear too.
I want to go with the DID ERV3, but I'm interested to know how the X chain is working out. I sure don't like to guinia pig new products, but if the relults are in...
My 1st choice is the ERV3 with 15/42 sprockets. Just hoping to find out a little more about the X chain.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,010 Posts
Works great for me. I don't have a ton of miles on my current one but my R1 came with one already on it with quite a few miles and it held up just fine being thoroughly abused in wet weather.

Don't bother with aluminum sprockets. Not worth the minimal weight savings.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,485 Posts
I've been running an RK XSO 530 chain for thousands of miles with hardly any adjustment ever needed.
I check it every few hundred miles when I clean and lube it, and it just seems to run forever.
And because the chain is holding up so well, my rear aluminum sprocket is doing likewise.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
264 Posts
I've put tens of thousands of miles over the years on DID x-ring chains (520ERV3, 520ZVM2 and 530ZVMX) on 4 different bikes now. 3 bikes were split between track and street duty. I have never had any reason to go with a different brand, nor do I plan to.

I think you'll be happy with the 520ERV3 and that sprocket combination, especially for the street. Does anyone actually use aluminum sprockets anymore?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,248 Posts
Been using the DID ERV3 520 chains since 2001 used it on my RC51, 919, GSXRK5 and currently have them on both 1000RR's, one of them has 14,000+ nasty, hard, abusive, wheelie poppin, tire spinnin track only miles on it and it still looks new.

We are also using them on the 204rwhp S1000RR race bikes with zero issues.

If they weren't up to the task I wouldn't sell them and I damn sure wouldn't use them...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,335 Posts
I have used DID, EK and RK and a few Regina chains....as long as you maintain them, they will take care of you.;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,663 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Works great for me. I don't have a ton of miles on my current one but my R1 came with one already on it with quite a few miles and it held up just fine being thoroughly abused in wet weather.

Don't bother with aluminum sprockets. Not worth the minimal weight savings.
I don't know.. I bought a steel 41 tooth steel SuperLite Sprockets from a local bike shop. And it was twice as heavy my current afam. I just wanted to try the difference, so I sprung $40 to try it. I switched back. Anyway, I'm getting a good idea about rotational force, and all thing considered, as well as the 520 afam 42 held up for me, that's what I want to stay with. At least 10,000 miles now are mine, and as near as I can guesstimate, the Original buyer put maybe 5000 miles on all the upgrades I found on the bike. Including the chain set.
The chain isn't all that worn. It's the tight kink it's devoloped that have me wanting to change it. It's pretty tight in one spot when I freewheel for chain lube. Enough that all of the normal slack is gone.


I've put tens of thousands of miles over the years on DID x-ring chains (520ERV3, 520ZVM2 and 530ZVMX) on 4 different bikes now. 3 bikes were split between track and street duty. I have never had any reason to go with a different brand, nor do I plan to.

I think you'll be happy with the 520ERV3 and that sprocket combination, especially for the street. Does anyone actually use aluminum sprockets anymore?
I'm not following you, you're mixing the regular O-ring chains with the X chains :confused: I'm trying to find out the difference between the two. sounds like both types work for you tho...

Yeah, here, people use anodized aluminum sprockets on the rear. Steel for the front.

Been using the DID ERV3 520 chains since 2001 used it on my RC51, 919, GSXRK5 and currently have them on both 1000RR's, one of them has 14,000+ nasty, hard, abusive, wheelie poppin, tire spinnin track only miles on it and it still looks new.

We are also using them on the 204rwhp S1000RR race bikes with zero issues.

If they weren't up to the task I wouldn't sell them and I damn sure wouldn't use them...
That's pretty much what I thought these chainsets could handle. Are you running an alum rear sprocket LDH?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
575 Posts
i use the DID 520ZVM2 X-Ring Chain --- with Driven sprockets ---- never had one fail PS for me im happy with 15/41 gears heres some info on the chain -----------------DID 520ZVM2 X-Ring Chain
Special oil seals produce 50% less friction and 50-100% longer wear life than standard O-ring chain
Average tensile strength of 8,550 lbs
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
264 Posts
I'm not following you, you're mixing the regular O-ring chains with the X chains :confused: I'm trying to find out the difference between the two. sounds like both types work for you tho...

Yeah, here, people use anodized aluminum sprockets on the rear. Steel for the front.

The three chains I listed all have DID's X-ring technology that has been around for years. I'm just stating that I was able to get 15,000+ miles out of each model. The ZVMX is replacing the ZVM2 according to DID's website.

Let me clarify, I don't know why someone would want to use an aluminum rear sprocket for the street. If you're shaving grams for a racebike then it makes sense, but I don't see the advantage on the street. Any perceived drivetrain response improvement is minimal at best in my experience. Yes it is lighter but I could hardly tell the difference when riding.

Fwiw I ran a Vortex aluminum rear sprocket with an ERV520 chain on an R1 for 1 TD and 6000 miles before the sprocket was too wavy to be safe. I put a steel rear on and sold the bike before it wore out. On the other bikes I've run steel sprockets on I had to replace the chain first.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,248 Posts
That's pretty much what I thought these chainsets could handle. Are you running an alum rear sprocket LDH?

I had roughly 14,000 miles on an aluminum AFAM (one of the now rare grey ones I discuss in this article http://www.rc51.org/gearing.htm ) & have since switched to one of the Drive Systems Superlight Steel just for testing purposes which is kind of a misnomer as I already know what to expect from them and the only thing I have really been testing lately is how hard the tire wall is


Fwiw I ran a Vortex aluminum rear sprocket with an ERV520 chain on an R1 for 1 TD and 6000 miles before the sprocket was too wavy to be safe. I put a steel rear on and sold the bike before it wore out. On the other bikes I've run steel sprockets on I had to replace the chain first.

Vortex is the crappiest brand of sprocket you could have possibly put on your bike followed closely by Renthal. They just don't last...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
264 Posts
Vortex is the crappiest brand of sprocket you could have possibly put on your bike followed closely by Renthal. They just don't last...
Tell me about it, trust me I won't make that mistake again.


I had roughly 14,000 miles on an aluminum AFAM (one of the now rare grey ones I discuss in this article http://www.rc51.org/gearing.htm ) & have since switched to one of the Drive Systems Superlight Steel just for testing purposes which is kind of a misnomer as I already know what to expect from them and the only thing I have really been testing lately is how hard the tire wall is
So what is your opinion on the superlites? I am about to try out my first set this next chain install.

Also, interesting read in your piece regarding aluminum sprockets. It seems I read more and more that many riders are going with steel for the durability. I know it's the internet and everyone's an expert, but when I switched from alum to steel on my R1 it did not seem to make a huge difference.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,248 Posts
A typical ERV3 520 conversion kit with aluminum rear sprocket will save you about 4lbs of rotating mass when compared to a 530 OEM chain kit. That is a pretty substantial amount of weight & even more when you take into account the reduction of gyroscopic effect from having less weight to spin up.

On a trackbike & damn sure for a racebike it does make sense to use the aluminum rear sprockets. For Street Riding on a liter bike meh... I mean it makes a difference and every bit counts, but it just not that big of a deal overall. You'll feel a much more drastic change from changing the size of the sprockets to a lower overall gearing than you will ever feel from the weight reduction.

My 1000RR weighed in at 384lbs and that was with about half a tank of fuel in it. The extra 13 ounces a steel Super Light sprocket is costing me on top of that is not going to make much of a difference to me out there on a 150+ rwhp bike. On a 600 maybe...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
145 Posts
I purchased an RK RX chain from Ben and need to take it to get cut down. Anyone know what the average price is for something like that?
Should be really cheap I would think, however why don't you buy, for instance, the Motion Pro chain tool and do it yourself? It's extremely easy! I got one and haven't taken any bikes in for a chain install/uninstall since.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
I'd looked at some recently but didn't feel like spending a lot of money on any more additional tools. I've currently got the RC up for sale. If it sells great. If not that's great too. I've got a chain tool from harbor freight that I used to remove the stock chain. I don't think it will work on this one.


Sent from my iPhone using MO Free
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,010 Posts
I'd looked at some recently but didn't feel like spending a lot of money on any more additional tools. I've currently got the RC up for sale. If it sells great. If not that's great too. I've got a chain tool from harbor freight that I used to remove the stock chain. I don't think it will work on this one.


Sent from my iPhone using MO Free
I have a cheap chain tool from cycle gear. Yeah, it doesn't feel that great, but is virtually the same set that motion pro sells for twice the price in a different color case. Who know if the material is the same though. Doubtful.

I had no issues using my cheap kit to remove the stock chain, or to rivet the did 520 chain. Just use a dremel to remove the top of the old rivet before you push the pin through.
 
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
Top